Best light for a 3x3x6

LEDTonic - Daniel

Active Member
No 660nm added red or UV ???
Red boost primarily helps when light intensity levels aren't adequately high. Above 500 PPFD, red boost is only marginally helpful, if that. It seems to be a fad that lamps "need" to have red boost but science says otherwise.
UV should not be used from seed to harvest. It's also important to differentiate between UV-A and UV-B. These wavelengths do different things to the plant and should only be applied when appropriate. Therefore a standalone UV-A/B lamp with its own light schedule is far better than integrated UV diodes that are on the same hours the main lamp is on.
I don't have a source but some say that UV diodes also have a significantly shorter lifespan than other diodes, eg white. White Samsung diodes will last 50.000+ hours assuming that they are running relatively cool. I've heard UV diodes (brand dependant, of course) last 1/5th of that time. Again, I don't have a reliable source for this so take this with a pinch of salt.

Hope this helps.
 

V256.420

Well-Known Member
Red boost primarily helps when light intensity levels aren't adequately high. Above 500 PPFD, red boost is only marginally helpful, if that. It seems to be a fad that lamps "need" to have red boost but science says otherwise.
UV should not be used from seed to harvest. It's almost important to differentiate between UV-A and UV-B. These wavelengths do different things to the plant and should only be applied when appropriate. Therefore a standalone UV-A/B lamp with its own light schedule is far better than integrated UV diodes that are on the same hours the main lamp is on.
I don't have a source but some say that UV diodes also have a significantly shorter lifespan than other diodes, eg white. White Samsung diodes will last 50.000+ hours assuming that they are running relatively cool. I've heard UV diodes (brand dependant, of course) last 1/5th of that time. Again, I don't have a reliable source for this so take this with a pinch of salt.

Hope this helps.
So essentially, no matter where you get your UV/A or B from, either LED or a T5, you need to have them on their own timer. Better to NOT have them incorporated into the fixture? Am I getting this right?
 

LEDTonic - Daniel

Active Member
So essentially, no matter where you get your UV/A or B from, either LED or a T5, you need to have them on their own timer. Better to NOT have them incorporated into the fixture? Am I getting this right?
Correct.

I'll add a caveat. If you buy a lamp with integrated UV diodes, regardless of brand, I'd ask for a written (email) confirmation from said brand that the UV diodes will last equally long as the other diodes on the lamp. I don't want to generalize and say all brands of UV diodes only have a short life span but from what I gather, some/most of the UV diodes used in today's grow lights won't work as long as white diodes.
I'd also only buy a lamp with UV diodes IF these have their own timer and can be switched on/off independently from the other (white) diodes.

But again, if one is to experiment with UV-A and UV-B, I'd recommend doing so with a standalone UV lamp. Also keep in mind that UV is more harmful to human eyes than blue (and white) light so turn off the UV when working near your plants.
 

V256.420

Well-Known Member
Correct.

I'll add a caveat. If you buy a lamp with integrated UV diodes, regardless of brand, I'd ask for a written (email) confirmation from said brand that the UV diodes will last equally long as the other diodes on the lamp. I don't want to generalize and say all brands of UV diodes only have a short life span but from what I gather, some/most of the UV diodes used in today's grow lights won't work as long as white diodes.
I'd also only buy a lamp with UV diodes IF these have their own timer and can be switched on/off independently from the other (white) diodes.

But again, if one is to experiment with UV-A and UV-B, I'd recommend doing so with a standalone UV lamp. Also keep in mind that UV is more harmful to human eyes than blue (and white) light so turn off the UV when working near your plants.
Very nice to know. Thank you very much for this. This is not the first time I'm hearing about the timing situation with UV and your regular flower fixtures. I was told by someone else using the Agromax T5 fixture that you should only use UV sparingly and be very careful with it. I assume it would be the same for a UV LED.

What kind of timing would you recommend for the HLG 30 watt UV bar as an example? It has it's own power cord so you can hook it up to it's own timer.
 

LEDTonic - Daniel

Active Member
Very nice to know. Thank you very much for this. This is not the first time I'm hearing about the timing situation with UV and your regular flower fixtures. I was told by someone else using the Agromax T5 fixture that you should only use UV sparingly and be very careful with it. I assume it would be the same for a UV LED.

What kind of timing would you recommend for the HLG 30 watt UV bar as an example? It has its own power cord so you can hook it up to it's own timer.
You're welcome. Information should be shared so we call grow as... growers.
Right. As long as the emitted spectrum and intensity is identical or similar, it doesn't matter if you're using a T5, LED, or whatever else you fancy.
I'm not knowledgeable enough about UV to give definitive advice. I always recommend growers to contact the brand they bought their lamp from. If a brand sells a certain product, they should also be able to offer support and advice, and know the facts.

The growers I've talked to about UV usually only use the UV for 30-60 minutes a day. I don't dare to say if this is best practice but that should give you an idea at least. I'm sure there are growers on this forum who are more knowledgeable about UV than I am.
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Correct.

I'll add a caveat. If you buy a lamp with integrated UV diodes, regardless of brand, I'd ask for a written (email) confirmation from said brand that the UV diodes will last equally long as the other diodes on the lamp. I don't want to generalize and say all brands of UV diodes only have a short life span but from what I gather, some/most of the UV diodes used in today's grow lights won't work as long as white diodes.
I'd also only buy a lamp with UV diodes IF these have their own timer and can be switched on/off independently from the other (white) diodes.

But again, if one is to experiment with UV-A and UV-B, I'd recommend doing so with a standalone UV lamp. Also keep in mind that UV is more harmful to human eyes than blue (and white) light so turn off the UV when working near your plants.
That light is going to cost a fortune
 

end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
Red boost primarily helps when light intensity levels aren't adequately high. Above 500 PPFD, red boost is only marginally helpful, if that. It seems to be a fad that lamps "need" to have red boost but science says otherwise.
This is quite interesting re spectrum, can you maybe quote the source with links?
I would be interested in sources too. Added red has me fascinated. I am always searching for info, be it anecdotal or research based.
Always understood the selling point for added red was to boost plant processes, besides boosting efficacy/efficiency numbers.
 

stevo89

Well-Known Member
Little update to derail this bad boy,didnt take long for this light to do its thing. Mold or tricomes(sp?)? Lemon lime kush,bout 7 weeks. Oh and nevermind the white spots,promise no mites. Its from a spray.
 

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LEDTonic - Daniel

Active Member
This is quite interesting re spectrum, can you maybe quote the source with links?
I would be interested in sources too. Added red has me fascinated. I am always searching for info, be it anecdotal or research based.
Always understood the selling point for added red was to boost plant processes, besides boosting efficacy/efficiency numbers.
Sorry for the late reply. Time doesn't permit me to visit ROI as often as I'd like.

This article is circulated in the indoor growing community:

While I recognize that a single article is not definitive proof that a theory is a fact, and other grow conditions certainly also impact final yield, the thoroughness of this study still impresses me. Enjoy.
 

RaymanG

Member
I run 2 x Spider Farmer SF2000 in a 3x3 Gorilla Shorty with extension ( So 175cm height ).

I absolutely kill it with yields.

Short node spacing and very healthy plants.

Virtually no heat issues. Even grow room stays cool from the air that is vented.
 

RaymanG

Member
Here is a 3 x 3 LED I built using Bridgelux Vero19 1750k COBS and Bridgelux EBGen2 3500k / 4000k Boards (8 x 1' Strips)
Awesome looking rig man.

Your pic has potentially inspired me to DIY myself if I ever go through a redesign of my current setup.
 

Sqwee

Well-Known Member
I run 2 x Spider Farmer SF2000 in a 3x3 Gorilla Shorty with extension ( So 175cm height ).

I absolutely kill it with yields.

Short node spacing and very healthy plants.

Virtually no heat issues. Even grow room stays cool from the air that is vented.
Are you running them full out? I have one in a 3x3 and have some heat issues with it and have to keep it dimmed around 60%
 
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