Brown edges on sugar leaf

Chow13

Active Member
Anyone know what could be causing the brown leaf. Its only one one bud. Top left in the canopy pic.

RDWC hydroponic.

Here is the last week. EC is us/cm
Day 99 F36 - EC 0955 PH 6.11. Added 4L 2ml Gro 4ml Micro 6ml Bloom ( EC 0824 PH 5.67)
Day 100F37 - EC 0937 PH 5.92. Did some minor defoliation of the lower canopy. Mainly got rid of the smaller or sick leaves and promote air flow.
Day 101F38 - EC 0987 PH 5.52. Added 4L 2ml Gro 4ml Micro 6ml Bloom( EC 1076 PH 6.83 ) I must of messed up on the last top up.
Day 102F39 - EC 1243, PH 5.76. Added 4L no nutes( EC 0282 PH 7.13 )
Day 103F40 - EC 1282, PH 5.91 <- March 1st.
 

Attachments

Chow13

Active Member
I was about to do a full water change. Any recommendation on what kind of Grow Micro Bloom Ratio I should use. Using General Hydroponics.
 

Chow13

Active Member
Yes, Roots are stained, but no rot. Anyone know what I should be doing to fix this issue? Using Flora Series GH nutrients
 

Chow13

Active Member
hotrodharley diagnosed your issue. You have a K deficiency.
Anyone know what I should be doing to fix this issue? Using Flora Series GH nutrients. My current ratio is 1 Gro: 2 Micro 3 Bloom.
Currently she seems to drink and eat around 0900 us/cm. When I go over 1000 then it keeps climbing unless I water it down, and if I go below 800 it drops dramatically. Should I still increase it or change my ratio to add more K. and if so do I add Gro n2-p1-k6 or bloom n0-p5-k4
 
Last edited:

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Anyone know what I should be doing to fix this issue? Using Flora Series GH nutrients. My current ratio is 1 Gro: 2 Micro 3 Bloom.
Currently she seems to drink and eat around 0900 us/cm. When I go over 1000 then it keeps climbing unless I water it down, and if I go below 800 it drops dramatically. Should I still increase it or change my ratio to add more K. and if so do I add Gro n2-p1-k6 or bloom n0-p5-k4

I'd suggest using the light feed chart. Use the formulation for the stage of growth you are at. You want relatively stable or slightly climbing on a recirc setup with daily water replacement and weekly res change out unless you can measure individual NPK. At least that's what I aimed for when I ran rails.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I'm almost afraid to jump in here as I seem to have to go agaist teh grain most times but you have toxic salts buildup. K deficiency doesn't show up the upper, newer leaves but in the older fan leaves first as it very mobile and the plant can easily steal what it needs from them.

Classic symptoms. Dark green, burnt tips and the leaf edges turning up to try to reduce the heat from salts building up in the tissues. Usually starts showing up around mid flower and can progress quite fast. High ppm feeds and low RH really gets it going.

I use AN 3-part and it's basically the same mixes as GH. Feed Lucas Formula style. Drop the Grow and use half as much Micro as Bloom so you end up with a ppm level half of what you've been feeding. Some Epsom Salts for the extra MG and S that they love in later flower and pumps up the resin. A little K only if you have it doesn't hurt either but should keep the ppm lower so the plant can try to use up some of the salts stored in the leaves that is causing the issue. I just skip a feed or two sometimes. I'd rather see some nice soft yellow old leaves than have everything start going all crispy critters by the finish.

I've was dealing with this for years trying to figure it out and now see very little of it by following my own advice.

Good luck and the plants look great overall!

:peace:
 

icedrgn027

Well-Known Member
I use GH on DWC. This is most likely a K deficiency BUT my guess is due to nutrient lockout from a salt buildup. Anytime I let my water get near 3 weeks without a full scrub. I tend to see this. Guaranteed, if you wait past 3 weeks. Still learning myself here but this has been my experience. Not saying you have waited this long either. Just sharing.

I use 5ml per gallon of each of the tri-flora series on water change. After they have been in flower for 3-4 weeks I drop the Grow all together and feed double Bloom. Alongside regular micro, calmag, and I also run hydroguard so I don't have to watch my water temps for root-rot. Those last few weeks I'm running closer to 3xBloom. Everything else stays the same. I top off with 1/4 strength water in between water changes. I let my ph fluctuate between 5.8 -6.2 and i dont adjust unless it is out of whack or not moving after a couple days since certain neutrients can only be absorbed at certain ph's in that range.
 

Chow13

Active Member
Ok, Thanks everyone. On average I have been changing the water every 10 days or so. Did a full water change and used Lucas Formula style. Hopefully this resolves the issue. Going to do a water change in 5 days or so just to help clean out the buildup.

I noticed that EC tends to go up while she sleeps and then it goes down when shes awake. Sometimes it ranges as much as 0.9 to 1.2 in less then an hour. I know it will change from how much she drinks, But this is changing with the water level still close to the same. Is there a "best time" to change the water? Also should I be checking the water at a specific time(lights on/off) mid way through.
 
Top