Feeding it water and nutes

What’s up new to roll it up. I thought I’d seek some knowledge on watering and feeding. This topic has been bugging me and especially now that I have some babies on deck . The way I initially learned how to feed would be to feed nutrients then wait a few days and feed water going back and forth, Is that necessary can I just feed nutrients consistently or do I have to switch out from nutrients to water ? Which is I’m assuming to avoid salt build up.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
What’s up new to roll it up. I thought I’d seek some knowledge on watering and feeding. This topic has been bugging me and especially now that I have some babies on deck . The way I initially learned how to feed would be to feed nutrients then wait a few days and feed water going back and forth, Is that necessary can I just feed nutrients consistently or do I have to switch out from nutrients to water ? Which is I’m assuming to avoid salt build up.
Wlcome.

If in an organic starter? No food. Just the minimum adequate water till feeding from roots. And the on off approach works when you know the PPM tolerance of your girls at the PH you are inducing. LOL.
 
I’m giving the youngest ones straight water I just transplanted them so I’m not trying to cause too much stress Wdym feeding from roots? And by ppm tolerance you mean the ppm limit power plants? Last but not least I didn’t know you can use ph to induce
 

Bullet2112

Active Member
With coco you wanna feed until saturation with run off is achieved every time. Sample run off for ph and ppm measurements.
 

not_a_doctor

Well-Known Member
With coco you wanna feed until saturation with run off is achieved every time. Sample run off for ph and ppm measurements.
Can I hijack and ask what if run off is high?
I grow in coco and flush mine over the weekend juat plain water PHed water always
I'm always learning on here
 
With coco you wanna feed until saturation with run off is achieved every time. Sample run off for ph and ppm measurements.
I mean if sampled run off reads at a higher ppm and higher ph I’m guessing it would salt is building up ?? And if reads lower the roots are collecting the nutrients giving it lower reading ???
 

A.k.a

Well-Known Member
Run off should be slightly higher than what you’re putting in.


If run off is high then either something’s wrong and the plant isn’t eating or the pot dried out too much.
 
Run off should be slightly higher than what you’re putting in.


If run off is high then either something’s wrong and the plant isn’t eating or the pot dried out too much.
Why should the run off be slightly higher?? Wouldn’t you want read lower ?
 

Buddernugs

Well-Known Member
Ok here’s the rundown on Coco......... starting off with seedling or clones you want 400 ppms total for the first couple weeks until the roots get set up 250 of that 400ppm should be Calmag the rest a and b...... always PH 5.8 to 6.2 during the early stages I always keep mine at 5.8..... if you have 400 ppm‘s going in and 425-450 going out then your fine...... once you start getting over 100 ppm‘s higher in your runoff then what is going into the pot that’s when you start waisting money.....when u see it 25-50ppm lower then what is going into the pot that’s an indication that everything is gravy train they’re doing what they need to do and your in the butter zone...once you get 100 ppm lower they’re starting to get hungry bump up your feed no more than 100 at a time and wait 2 days to see if they can handle it....your shou,d no if it’s to much ppm buy testing next run off the following day...., but always keep your base water before u add your a and b at 250-300ppm if it’s tap water and it’s 100-150ppm just add cal mag 1ml per gal at a time and mix it and see where your at by testing it with your ppm meter....try to get it as close to 250-300ppm as possible that way from that point on you know exactly how much to add so you don’t have to keep testing it.....people Have sworn to me up and down I’m wasting time by testing coco run off because it’s not accurate, and that I have to do a slurry method....I call compleat and utter bullshit on that.......I’ll tell you this from time and time again first hand experience.....when ever my runoff ph hits 5.5 or lower I see issues within 1-2 days following that reading.....5.7-5.6 is fine just make sure next time u water them that your ph going in is 6.2, then next time give them 6.1 then 6.0 all the way down to 5.8-5.7 then go back to 6.2........I only do that in late veg before I flip so they get everything they need before the stretch...... once you flip keep it at 5.8 exactly they are going to need a ridiculous amount of Energy to power that growth and 5.u makes all the food they need during that time the most abundantly available.......also during the first 3 weeks of 12/12 only run your veg a and b, no point switching over untill their done growing....this is extremely important in my eyes because these things are going to grow more in the first three weeks of 12 12 than at any other stage in their life you really want to make sure they’re getting the right food to power growth of the plant itself not the buds during that point in time.... The first day of the week 4 stop all veg/grow a and b, and start bloom/flower A and b.......I like to keep my ppms in flower right at 800-900ppms with some strains like black widows only takeing 6-650 ppms because their extreamly light feeders (we are talking .5 scail ppm not .7) I use ro water at 3-6 ppm and ppm that up to 250 then the rest a and b even in flower, so their really not getting as much a and b as you would think they need, but trust me it’s still plenty.......I have also noticed on some strains like blue dream that during the first 3 weeks of 12/12 they can handle as much as 1100-1200 ppms,and on a pretty consistent basis first day of week 4 into 12/12 my runoff goes from being 25-50ppm higher,to 100-200 ppm higher than what’s going into the pot...so I always drop the feed down after the stretch just something that I’ve noticed.... and for god sake‘s don’t flush it’s been proven to not do anything but hurt the end product it’s like going to the gym having a nasty workout going home and not eating for the next three days..... these things are stacking on the most crystals the most Turpines the most resin the most oil and the most dankness during the last few weeks of their life not really a good idea to starve them when they’re trying to do that....... when you flush you’re starting the plants and they take nutrients from the fan leaves and throw them directly into the buds as a last ditch effort to procreate so no matter what you do one way or another there is still going to be nutrients in those buds.......good shit is grown........great shit is hung dry and cured to perfection.............
 
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Buddernugs

Well-Known Member
Also u wana aim for 20% run off so if u give them 1 gal per pot, you want roughly 1 L dumping out the bottom of the pot. Don’t go by volume of the pot itself if you have a 5 gallon pot and it takes 5 gallons of water to get runoff do you want to long without watering I water mine once every three days during the first two weeks of their life after that it’s every day once the stretch stops it’s twice a day..... if you can afford it I highly suggest buying some drip clean .4ml per gal so it lasts a long time also get yourself some 10 mL syringe it’s the best way to measure on small scale grows back in the day when I was a small fry I get a lumbar needle talk it through each of my feeds in my nutrient containers so when I had to use them all I had to do was put the needle in shake it tipped it upside down and measured my dose...... if you go that route here’s a tip you’re going to need two needles because the first one you use to make all the holes is going to be plugged up with plastic and you’ll never get it out so keep that one separate and hang onto it so next time you get a bottle you can use that one to poke a hole through it
 

not_a_doctor

Well-Known Member
Ok here’s the rundown on Coco......... starting off with seedling or clones you want 400 ppms total for the first couple weeks until the roots get set up 250 of that 400ppm should be Calmag the rest a and b...... always PH 5.8 to 6.2 during the early stages I always keep mine at 5.8..... if you have 400 ppm‘s going in and 425-450 going out then your fine...... once you start getting over 100 ppm‘s higher in your runoff then what is going into the pot that’s when you start waisting money.....when u see it 25-50ppm lower then what is going into the pot that’s an indication that everything is gravy train they’re doing what they need to do and your in the butter zone...once you get 100 ppm lower they’re starting to get hungry bump up your feed no more than 100 at a time and wait 2 days to see if they can handle it....your shou,d no if it’s to much ppm buy testing next run off the following day...., but always keep your base water before u add your a and b at 250-300ppm if it’s tap water and it’s 100-150ppm just add cal mag 1ml per gal at a time and mix it and see where your at by testing it with your ppm meter....try to get it as close to 250-300ppm as possible that way from that point on you know exactly how much to add so you don’t have to keep testing it.....people Have sworn to me up and down I’m wasting time by testing coco run off because it’s not accurate, and that I have to do a slurry method....I call compleat and utter bullshit on that.......I’ll tell you this from time and time again first hand experience.....when ever my runoff ph hits 5.5 or lower I see issues within 1-2 days following that reading.....5.7-5.6 is fine just make sure next time u water them that your ph going in is 6.2, then next time give them 6.1 then 6.0 all the way down to 5.8-5.7 then go back to 6.2........I only do that in late veg before I flip so they get everything they need before the stretch...... once you flip keep it at 5.8 exactly they are going to need a ridiculous amount of Energy to power that growth and 5.u makes all the food they need during that time the most abundantly available.......also during the first 3 weeks of 12/12 only run your veg a and b, no point switching over untill their done growing....this is extremely important in my eyes because these things are going to grow more in the first three weeks of 12 12 than at any other stage in their life you really want to make sure they’re getting the right food to power growth of the plant itself not the buds during that point in time.... The first day of the week 4 stop all veg/grow a and b, and start bloom/flower A and b.......I like to keep my ppms in flower right at 800-900ppms with some strains like black widows only takeing 6-650 ppms because their extreamly light feeders (we are talking .5 scail ppm not .7) I use ro water at 3-6 ppm and ppm that up to 250 then the rest a and b even in flower, so their really not getting as much a and b as you would think they need, but trust me it’s still plenty.......I have also noticed on some strains like blue dream that during the first 3 weeks of 12/12 they can handle as much as 1100-1200 ppms,and on a pretty consistent basis first day of week 4 into 12/12 my runoff goes from being 25-50ppm higher,to 100-200 ppm higher than what’s going into the pot...so I always drop the feed down after the stretch just something that I’ve noticed.... and for god sake‘s don’t flush it’s been proven to not do anything but hurt the end product it’s like going to the gym having a nasty workout going home and not eating for the next three days..... these things are stacking on the most crystals the most Turpines the most resin the most oil and the most dankness during the last few weeks of their life not really a good idea to starve them when they’re trying to do that....... when you flush you’re starting the plants and they take nutrients from the fan leaves and throw them directly into the buds as a last ditch effort to procreate so no matter what you do one way or another there is still going to be nutrients in those buds.......good shit is grown........great shit is hung dry and cured to perfection.............
Good info that and I am by no means questioning anyone on here ... Why does cyco recommend this for coco... I have my girls around 2.0ec atm they love it and tbh my Moby dick would take more if I gave it

Always found this chart confusing again sorry to hijack someone else's thread Screenshot_20210510_173726_com.google.android.apps.docs_edit_88720248205732.jpg
 

Buddernugs

Well-Known Member
Every strain is different, iv had some damn near die on me from only 650ppm and others thrive at 1200..... I try to take those feeding charts with a grain of salt and watch the numbers because numbers don’t lie..... if you’re feeling something 1450 ppm‘s and your runoff it’s higher than 1450 ppm‘s by a fair amount then you are putting things into the route zone that they are not taking up and thus wasting money
 

not_a_doctor

Well-Known Member
Every strain is different, iv had some damn near die on me from only 650ppm and others thrive at 1200..... I try to take those feeding charts with a grain of salt and watch the numbers because numbers don’t lie..... if you’re feeling something 1450 ppm‘s and your runoff it’s higher than 1450 ppm‘s by a fair amount then you are putting things into the route zone that they are not taking up and thus wasting money
Many thanks I have recently been dialing down nutes on the critical as it has locked out a few times with high run off values and everything does seem sweeter
Take it easy thanks for info
 
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