First LED build.... need help with driver selection and wiring plz

StAuggydogg

Active Member
I am building my first light and really appreciate the help. I'm getting the strips from cutter and I'm going with 16--48v strips w/ 112 of the cree 2835's in 2700k at 90CRI... It will be a flowering specific light w/ no reds or blues or any other color diodes... I would like to be able to drive them to consume 6-650w.. and then wire in a pot to dim it as needed.
Cutter recommended the hlg600-48B but they're asking 80 bucks more than arrow, and that's before shipping, whereas the arrow price includes shipping. I was previously looking at greengenes strips w/ a pair of Osram 320w drivers that he has for 70 a piece.. I don't understand the whole programming of the drivers and haven't been able to get an answer via email from him. I thought they just functioned as a power supply/conditioner of sorts. Greengenes says the Osrams come programmed for 1440ma and 222v...

Can I use the Osrams programmed the way they come?

If I can't use the Osrams, what driver(S) would you recommend?

How would you recommend wiring the light?

What would be the max power consumed?

Sorry for the rambling and cobbled together sentence structure I've been up all night...lol
and thank you in advance for any help!:peace:
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
How big is your space, including height? Wattage depends on the space.



Personally I try to avoid +200V DC in our grow due to safety. I'd rec connecting in parallel using a CV driver.
Maybe link the strips your using to make sure?
 

StAuggydogg

Active Member
Thanks man! I was hoping to get a driver and wiring recommendation, I'm trying to end up with 6-650w at wide open throttle... the strips are 48v each and I need to drive 16 of them. Whether its all 16 or 2 groups of 8...
I know you said parallel w/ a CV driver... which specific driver(S) would you recommend?
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
1: if you don't want to mess around with programming these drivers aren't a good fit: they are 222 V which means you can only fit 4 strips in series with about 70w per strip, too much power per strip and only utilizing 280ish w of the driver. It's perfect for the PLC strips which are about 26-27V but not your 48V strips.

2: I'd suggest 2 x HLG320h-48 drivers. You can use as many strips you like in parallel.
There are variants of this driver depending on what type of dimming, I'd suggest to try to find hlg320h-48AB (onboard dimming and of board dimming thru resistive or pwm). If no joy: A type: onboard dimming but slightly uncomfortable, you have to put a screwdriver in a little hole to adjust power, but they also have voltage regulation: this is great for setting max voltage which could protect your remaining strips if you had some strips failing. It kinda means you can set the driver to a max wattage per strip. I like these but a bit uncomfortable, hard to do precise dimming unless you have some sort of power meter.
B-type: of board dimming, you have to buy an external dimmer but means you don't have to mess around with the driver itself to dim.

You can also use 1x hlg600-48 (same deal with the A, B or AB versions). This is a premium driver with very nice efficiency. But some prefer 2 smaller drivers rather than 1 big. Less problem in case your driver failed.

For super budget there is the meanwell Lrs-350-48 but I haven't tried that one. But this driver I would not mount inside the grow space.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I think the second one, finishing in only 48 has no dimming, not adviced.
They are actually constant voltage, but they have a constant current region for lower than 48V so arrow isn't completely wrong there, but generally speaking they are constant voltage.

I can't find the info on the cutter strips, seems like you deleted it, could you link it? I'm hoping to check voltage versus current to have an idea of voltage @ 40w power. If your happy with using A version it shouldn't be a problem but you might have problems with the B version as on high power sometimes the voltage is a bit higher than 48V; A version has a fix for this but version doesn't.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Yeah sorry about deleting it... I didn't think you had seen it yet, and the more I read it the more wordy and over written it sounded..lol :wall:
Here's the strips:

https://www.cutter.com.au/product/ssk-1560zge-2835-2790/

thanks again:peace:
The link don't really give the necessary info, my advice is going for A version cause if understand this correct at 40w you might have a bit more voltage than 48V. If you go for the B version you might not get full power. Maybe @welight can provide a graph of voltage versus current and/or which version of cree 2835 they use.
 

StAuggydogg

Active Member
Hope so, Mark's been a big help. He recommended the HLG600H-48B last night but I didn't get a chance to ask him about two 320's before I crashed... I'm 12hours behind him time wise.
I didn't even know there were different versions of the 2835's? what are the different versions?
 

StAuggydogg

Active Member
I found out they're J series, and downloaded the data sheet. I found this info, I'm not sure if these are the characteristics you were looking for? I tried attaching the PDF but was unable to make that happen.

JB2835B 3-V J Class 0.2 W 25 °C 55 mA 2.68 V 31.0 lm 210 LPW 32.7 lm 222 LPW 480 mA

Thermal resistance, junction to solder point °C/W 8.8
Viewing angle (FWHM) degrees 120
Temperature coefficient of voltage mV/°C -1.02
ESD withstand voltage (JEDEC JS-001-2012) Class 2
DC forward current mA 480
Reverse voltage V 5
Forward voltage (@ 55 mA, 25 °C) V 2.68 2.8
LED junction temperature °C 125
Operating temperature °C -40 105

still cant post the whole pdf but was able to snip this:

Capture.PNG

and this one.. obviously the 90cri is a little less efficient as far as output but there's value, to me, in the quality of the spectrum.
Capture2.PNG

Is this the info from the data sheet you were looking for? Seem like decent diodes?
 

StAuggydogg

Active Member
I was more than happy with everyone at Cutter, and I have to say I feel confident in the purchase. I'm
glad I followed my instincts and decided to build instead of buy a finished product.:mrgreen:

Now the fun will really begin in 10 or 12 days when everything gets here:peace:
 
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