Fungus Gnats, problem?

Rozgreenburn

Rozgreenburn

Well-Known Member
I'm deciding what to do about a modest gnat problem. I've read that they are not as problematic in organic grows. How harmful would a small dose of BT be for my soil microbes? I've got decades of synthetic experience but I have committed to organic living soil and the learning journey I'm starting here.
 
Beehive

Beehive

Well-Known Member
Its BTI. BT is different and effects different bugs. I've never heard or read about BTI killing the soil.

If you want to really hurt them. As in kill them within hours. Cut a chunk off a mosquito dunk. Powder it the best you can. Pour the powder in RO or distilled water and let it seep for awhile. The water will get cloudy.

After about an hour. Strain the particles out the water. Then pour the water in a spray bottle or garden sprayer.( I use a 1 liter Solo pump sprayer.) Spray the soil, outside of the pot, and the surface the pot sits on.
 
H

Hash Hound

Well-Known Member
I've been growing organic soils for 11 years and have battled them for 11 years.
A common occurrence is they're more of a nuisance from spring to fall. I haven't seen any for a few months now, but spring is right around the bend..
Yellow stickys are a must have for me.
 
Beehive

Beehive

Well-Known Member
My sticky strips look like a tablespoon of rough ground pepper were thrown at them.

I have three in the grow room. Two in the bedroom. Two outside the bedroom door. One in the garage. One in my bathroom, and another in the living room. Dollar store specials.

For the little basturds' to make it back to the grow room. They have to fly through the gauntlet of pain.
 
GrownAtHighAltitude

GrownAtHighAltitude

Well-Known Member
I used beneficial nematodes for a few applications over 2 months. I also used yellow stickies in the pots, hanging fly tape, and I used Flying Skull Nuke'em to simultaneously knock out a persistent aphid problem too.

Now no more fungus gnats. No more aphids either. :-)
 
Severed Tongue

Severed Tongue

Well-Known Member
I'm in soil. Fabric pots, bottom water in trays only. Top soil dries, larva dies, ends the cycle. Yellow stickies have not a single big on em going on 3 months.

I have a corn tree plant in my living room though, serious infestation. Tried Diatomaceous Earth, didn't work. Tried sand, they just go down under the pot into holes and lay eggs there instead... little fucking bitches. Just replanted today after rinsing roots, and 100% fresh soil.

I need to get a fabric pot that's the right size, so probably going to be fighting them again soon.

Anyways, fabric pots and bottom water works great!
 
707Patrick

707Patrick

Well-Known Member
Couple things that work... #1 pine bark mulch on top. #2 Drying out medium before watering. #3 Mosquito pucks. All of these will work for organic grow. If you don't start doing one of these methods problem will grow quickly. It's not really a big deal if plants are mature. They attack the roots not the plant. Young plants can't handle it.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Beehive said:
Its BTI. BT is different and effects different bugs. I've never heard or read about BTI killing the soil.

If you want to really hurt them. As in kill them within hours. Cut a chunk off a mosquito dunk. Powder it the best you can. Pour the powder in RO or distilled water and let it seep for awhile. The water will get cloudy.

After about an hour. Strain the particles out the water. Then pour the water in a spray bottle or garden sprayer.( I use a 1 liter Solo pump sprayer.) Spray the soil, outside of the pot, and the surface the pot sits on.
Click to expand...
Mosquito dunks are made of BTI.

I top dressed with EWC and let the hypoaspis miles take care of the gnats. Haven't seen one in a couple years now. Never had to buy anything else. I did get yellow sticky traps a couple years ago though when I had them for the fliers. But I don't need any traps now.
 
Beehive

Beehive

Well-Known Member
The reason I get them is during the days I prep the pots before the grow where they have access. Before that it's stored paper dry.

Theres different types of BT. BTI, BTK, BTA. Most target beetles and caterpillars. The only one that targets mosquito and knats is BTI.
 
707Patrick

707Patrick

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
Mosquito dunks are made of BTI.

I top dressed with EWC and let the hypoaspis miles take care of the gnats. Haven't seen one in a couple years now. Never had to buy anything else. I did get yellow sticky traps a couple years ago though when I had them for the fliers. But I don't need any traps now.
Click to expand...
What is EWC? Does everyone know what all these acronyms mean?
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
707Patrick said:
lets back up a minute. Top dressing with EWC takes care of gnats?
Click to expand...
EWC should have hypoaspis miles mites in it. Their favorite food is fungus gnat larvae. The more gnats there are the more the hypoaspis will breed. When the gnat population goes down, so do the hypoaspis miles. It's nature finding a perfect balance. A little larva is good in the soil. Gnat larvae are decomposers and the actually help a little if they're not outta control.

But I tell people this all the time and they think I'm the one full of shit, no pun intended.

But you can buy the separately if you want.

www.arbico-organics.com

Stratiolaelaps scimitus (Hypoaspis miles)

Overnight shipping required. Ships on Tuesdays only. Not available in store. See shipping info for details. Knockdown and Preventive Control of Soil Dwelling Fungus Gnats , Root Aphids, Thrips and Springtails. This tiny, translucent brown to tan predatory mite naturally inhabits the...
www.arbico-organics.com
 
Rozgreenburn

Rozgreenburn

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input. I use 1 sticky yellow trap every 5-6 weeks[both sides] and have 1" of cypress and pine bark mulch. The girls look really good, but, I will try running my soil a little dryer. If needed I will have fresh EWC in about 2 weeks.
 
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N

Northwood

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
EWC should have hypoaspis miles mites in it. Their favorite food is fungus gnat larvae. The more gnats there are the more the hypoaspis will breed. When the gnat population goes down, so do the hypoaspis miles. It's nature finding a perfect balance. A little larva is good in the soil. Gnat larvae are decomposers and the actually help a little if they're not outta control.
Click to expand...
I think this is true for those who keep their own worm bins who can use very fresh castings, like right out of the bin for inoculation purposes. Stuff you buy in bags that have been shipped and processed from who-knows-where, well I'm not so optimistic. Also it's important to inoculate your worm-bins too, with stuff from outside. Soil from the garden, plants and leaves... all that is okay. Hopefully the "good" biology dominates in the bin. I think the worms help tip the balance though ;)

Even without gnats, other lifeforms common in active worm castings are of course springtails. And luckily for predatory mites, that's their second favorite food. So just feed from the bottom, and everything existing at higher trophic levels will take care of themselves. In other words, there is no sense worrying about the entire "food web" lol... just worry about the bottom level. Like capitalism, all nutes are collected and concentrated towards the top. Hahaha
 
Rozgreenburn

Rozgreenburn

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
I think this is true for those who keep their own worm bins who can use very fresh castings, like right out of the bin for inoculation purposes. Stuff you buy in bags that have been shipped and processed from who-knows-where, well I'm not so optimistic. Also it's important to inoculate your worm-bins too, with stuff from outside. Soil from the garden, plants and leaves... all that is okay. Hopefully the "good" biology dominates in the bin. I think the worms help tip the balance though ;)

Even without gnats, other lifeforms common in active worm castings are of course springtails. And luckily for predatory mites, that's their second favorite food. So just feed from the bottom, and everything existing at higher trophic levels will take care of themselves. In other words, there is no sense worrying about the entire "food web" lol... just worry about the bottom level. Like capitalism, all nutes are collected and concentrated towards the top. Hahaha
Click to expand...
True that. The EWC that you buy has no defining standards. That is why I started a few worm beds. I can't wait to use fresh EWC. Good growing
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
I think this is true for those who keep their own worm bins who can use very fresh castings, like right out of the bin for inoculation purposes. Stuff you buy in bags that have been shipped and processed from who-knows-where, well I'm not so optimistic. Also it's important to inoculate your worm-bins too, with stuff from outside. Soil from the garden, plants and leaves... all that is okay. Hopefully the "good" biology dominates in the bin. I think the worms help tip the balance though ;)

Even without gnats, other lifeforms common in active worm castings are of course springtails. And luckily for predatory mites, that's their second favorite food. So just feed from the bottom, and everything existing at higher trophic levels will take care of themselves. In other words, there is no sense worrying about the entire "food web" lol... just worry about the bottom level. Like capitalism, all nutes are collected and concentrated towards the top. Hahaha
Click to expand...
You let the top dry out?

And actually the Wiggle Worm EWC that I bought at first was full of hypoaspis miles. I get the ones from BAS now, but I was impressed that the cheap Wiggle Worm stuff had them.
 
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