NER flexability

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
How often do you change ner based on def, toxicities etc. ? just curious as seems like one parts are the way to go with calmg supp as needed. does having a 3 part make it easier to correct issues if they arise? I like the gh professional charts and gh products.

do you just adjust the ml/gal if you have NPK issues or add another feed to frequency schedule or lastly, step up to medium lvl feed? assuming vpd/light intensity is at its medium best (1000ppfd led) fed twice daily in flower?

i ask because even in bulk, the 1 part is half the cost. im sure its best to post a pic of a leaf of concern but dont have any nor did , hence the question. if i did though, what would be assumtions based on this common setup following light or medium lvl feed of gh prof feed chart?

A5C9590F-9476-42D7-9AA6-A8DCD16C1E32.jpeg

lets say leaves yellow concerningly, or have a micro nute def look or calmg def look to it? hope this makes sense.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
nutrient element ratio of NPK assuming your doing decent tap water .2 to .5 EC. 2x2 or 5x5 with proper exaust and air circulation. let me know what elsenim missing, coco coir and perlite buffered and rinsed. @rkymtnman
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
nutrient element ratio of NPK assuming your doing decent tap water .2 to .5 EC. 2x2 or 5x5 with proper exaust and air circulation. let me know what elsenim missing, coco coir and perlite buffered and rinsed. @rkymtnman
still fairly new to coco. i went with H3AD's formula which was based off Lucas formula. it's 6/9 micro to bloom and 1 gram of epsom salts.
 

PopAndSonGrows

Well-Known Member
My opinions as it pertains to GHE:

The 3-part lasts quite a while, especially the Gro. Matter o fact, you'll refill the Micro and Bloom once or even twice before ever needing more Gro. It's one of their oldest products and it dilutes super easily, and IMO is way less likely to clog drip lines than a 1-part. As you stated Ca Mg would be on an as-needed basis and also IMO is largely dependent on your medium and water quality. Same goes for Armor Si/silica additive.

I liked the 3-part, but have recently switched to the Flora Nova 1-part with similar if not slightly better results so far.

So, very generally speaking, if you're using GHE products and follow the "medium" program and your plants are still exhibiting problems, then I think you should be looking at all other aspects of your grow besides nutrients; maybe your water is too polluted or too inert, maybe your temp or RH is not optimal, maybe your airflow is too much or too little.
 

PopAndSonGrows

Well-Known Member
nutrient element ratio of NPK assuming your doing decent tap water .2 to .5 EC. 2x2 or 5x5 with proper exaust and air circulation. let me know what elsenim missing, coco coir and perlite buffered and rinsed. @rkymtnman
Temp and humidity are a couple things you missed. Keep plants in the VPD "green zone", and if you're confused which VPD chart to use, go with Pulse.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
still fairly new to coco. i went with H3AD's formula which was based off Lucas formula. it's 6/9 micro to bloom and 1 gram of epsom salts.
I was thinking of switching to mxi series of gh next time since most of my time spent mixing nutes was doing just that for seemingly more costs and labor when it could be one and done. not sure if it will be harder fixing select issues though.

if issues arise though i wonder how youd fix them, with a one part overlapping in solutions (up from light feed to medium feed or feed more times per day.) One of which, saving tonss. and time. but as new posts mention..
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Temp and humidity are a couple things you missed. Keep plants in the VPD "green zone", and if you're confused which VPD chart to use, go with Pulse.
I tried mentioning “if vpd/light intensity is correct” , I know i am aiming in the dark with this question but great info on the clogging! this is a realm of automation, I only just read the salt build up on pots and etc, being less with 1 part cs a cheaper 1 part.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I was thinking of switching to mxi series of gh next time since most of my time spent mixing nutes was doing just that for seemingly more costs and labor when it could be one and done. not sure if it will be harder fixing select issues though.

if issues arise though i wonder how youd fix them, with a one part overlapping in solutions (up from light feed to medium feed or feed more times per day.) One of which, saving tonss. and time. but as new posts mention..
i used maxibloom in dwc. it works great too from start to finish. generally all you need to adjust is EC depending on plant size
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
i used maxibloom in dwc. it works great too from start to finish. generally all you need to adjust is EC depending on plant size
I noticed their, what seems to be, “general use” chart seems more gentle and caps at 1.0 ec, was curious about that. the professional charts go a little harder, even at their starting “light” feed, was wondering why. I ran into issues using RO, its not for me. Seems tap really is good for them, was having micro def issues.

at the moment Im at this point with ec, people do 9.0 up to 3.0ec (seems to be preference) so the added tap water ec with micros should help. so that put me at the 2.2 range with no issues. and tap is cheap lol. it would be 1.5 with tap and general use mxi chart. any thoughts on that? im sure many wonder.

I read some like how the general use chart overlaps in gro and bloom dureing stretch. the professional doesn’t, again, harsher.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
i dont think ive ever been above 1.2

right now in coco, i feed 3x a day at about 0,8 with 0.2 of that my well water
ppl say above .2 ec is too hard but after months of looking into it here and there i read most ppl city tap is good quality and not considered hard even at .5 or a bit higher (of course they fluctuate.)

so i guess its up for debate if its too polluted, just leaves will tell i guess. i think theres benefits to some of that ppm for sure.
 

PopAndSonGrows

Well-Known Member
Different nutrient lines use different EC

When i was running Athena, I believe it called for like 2.8 EC which seemed WAAAAY higher to me than it should, but the plants loved it.
 

J. Rocket

Well-Known Member
in rockwool dtw ive been running that gh trio chart middle feed ml/gal with a pinch of extra micros. nothing else.
not a problem in years. 0.50 micron filtered tapwater.
used calmag once, first rockwool run.
didnt need it, I was underfeeding using the low feed chart.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
in rockwool dtw ive been running that gh trio chart middle feed ml/gal with a pinch of extra micros. nothing else.
not a problem in years. 0.50 micron filtered tapwater.
used calmag once, first rockwool run.
didnt need it, I was underfeeding using the low feed chart.
I was about to ask, if you can add some gro with the maxi or how you would fix an immobile nute issue during flower but remembered I was getting better results just feeding more often and to large runoff or stepping up feed if they were pale looking all around but never were.

sometimes its hard to tell because hydro, grows so fast it needs time to turn its color.
 
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