Powdery Mildew, Please Help!!!!????

The PM I've been seeing around can survive in RH 20%+ and temps 36-95, and you have to spray weekly in veg to keep it unnoticeable. Most people have trouble controlling it in flowering. I floral spray in flowering up to day 45 with all different things. ATM in the bud room I spray AN mother earth tea bloom and RO water 1tbs/gal has a pH 7.0-7.6.

If that shit (Actinovate) works .... REP + for sure.

TriPurple said:

If that shit (Actinovate) works .... REP + for sure.

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It works for brown spot too! SHHHHHH

dry soil humid hot not much water i soil conditions can promote PM. r u using 9:1 water/skim milk ratio to mist them? works...I would kill my plants if they were young and i couuld start fresh easily man. eagle 20 on mothers will surpress it for a yr but nasty stuff. wishu luck

robert030188 said:

Yep neem oil...also know people that use heavily diluted milk foliar spray to get rid of PM

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I had a little pm problem my self , use milk it worked great.. maximum of 30% milk to water ratio, I saw a bit of pm on the leaf and ,blasted my plants to death ,untill all leafs stems the lot was dripping .. I wiped mainly all the residue off of the milk .. worked Puka ...


Keep humidity down

More fans running .

Controlled wortering schedules .

Powdery mildew?
is it possible this is just pollen...perhaps some are males/Hermys.
I had a plant turn male and noticed yellow powder I assumed it was some type of mildew but it became obvious it was just pollen.

Neem oil definitely helps in veg. ...Thanks UB!!!!

What if its in the soil does it still work or is their a solution u use with water u could suggest?

Yeah, really is a headache once you get that. I had it on my last 2 crops, right from cutting stage all the way threw. I tried battling it when they were small just by cleaning leafs etc, couldn't stop it though. Was covered in the stuff. I will say though, not sure if i was lucky or not, but it made no difference to the quality of the bud once dry, not too sure about the yield. I had a break for about 6 months after and then changed from pots to nft tray, gave the tent a good clean just with water and tiny bit of oxyplus, cleaned the fans out and everything and seemed to get rid of it. I also sorted my extraction fan out better than it was, which helped most i think

Super Lemon Hazer said:

What if its in the soil does it still work or is their a solution u use with water u could suggest?

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Actinovate works as a foliar or drench. It works better the earlier used and best is one time during veg every cycle and no probs. Never spray your kola's with anything......it never works out. Battle it on veg.............

A better solution to spider mites is 1oz rose marry oil in 1gal ro water and a few drops of biodegradable soap, you can feed if your in soil idk about hydro and foliage spray after lights out. I used to spray the sides of my tent and my fans with the solution and mites died off noticeably and never came back.

2 days into flush and PM shows up.

Anyone try this stuff? http://www.greenwaynutrients.com/no-powdery-mildew-facts
I'll be picking some up today (if in stock) and will report back.

Grandpapy said:

2 days into flush and PM shows up.

Anyone try this stuff? http://www.greenwaynutrients.com/no-powdery-mildew-facts
I'll be picking some up today (if in stock) and will report back.

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The Hydro guys had not so pleasant things to say about greenway and did not have it in stock.
Ended up just getting PM Wash, Basically the same as dunking.

if u use fresh cow milk mixed with distilled water it works awesome. the high ph of r/o water fixes it. best of luck.

BullyManAz said:

View attachment 2487877Its the little ones in front I have found it on. I havent been misting them at all. And I only water in the morning.

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is what youre seeing fuzzy wispy white fibers which can be wiped off the leaf , if so thats PM
high humidity in a sealed environment is an invitation to all forms of mildew and mould, and once it gets a foothold, PM can become systemic.

if youre seeing white spots in the actual leaf structure thats something else.

if its actually PM, put the plants under the cleansing rays of the arizona sun for a few hours while you sanitize the room like it';s an operating theater, including behind the sheeting. wash it all down with bleach, and let it dry thoroughly before putting your plants back in there.

installing a blacklight can help reduce the mildew problem through the magic of UV rays, but youll have to keep the temps and humidity down, and watch for more mildew. if it comes back after a few days those plants are infected inside, and should be scrapped, the room cleaned again, and then start over.

cutting off the leafs with mildew on them doesnt help if the spores are present and the humidity is high enough for the shit to reproduce, and if the shit is inside the plant's structure as a systemic infestation, you cannot fix it. when you start to bud your buds will be full of the shit.

to recap: Sterilize the room, let the sun sterilize the plants for you, install a blacklight (even just a single 24 watt fluorescent blacklight tube will do) keep the humidity and temps low as possible, and pray it hasnt infiltrated the plant's structure.
if it still persists, scrap the grow, sterilize again and start over.

GK1 said:

Hey guys,
A few thoughts about PM. It is not systemic but rather has the ability to "over winter" in nooks and crannies of stem foilage etc. It can even go intra-cellular which means it invades individual cells and the spore waits for the right condition to germinate. Systemic implies entry into the vascular pathways, PM does not. Its ability to overwinter and wait for right conditions is why it seems systemic in its return. When you have recurring outbreaks of PM from run to run you are literally creating your own strain of PM and increasing its resistance. There are a few fungicides that work sytemically to kill any spores present and but they are systemic. I prefer to not put systemic products in my meds. That leaves natural biology. I use Actinovate for PM and other fungal issues. It is a naturally occurring bacteria that eats fungi. I use it foliar and drench. It stays as long as food is available to it and continues throughout. I spray it one time in veg and dont have issue.

PM is control is not about high or low humidity but rather the difference on high to low in a 24 hour period. I run 85% humidity during veg and have no PM. If i get 55-85 swings at night then I will see it pop up if I'm not using Actinovate. Hope this helps. Peace.

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PM can invade the plant's structure, particularly plants with a hollow stem, which is why it's called systemic under those circumstances.

insisting that it's not TECHNICALLY systemic is needlessly complicating the issue. once PM gets inside the plant, the plant will NEVER be free of PM, and must be removed.

in some cases PM can infest the rhizome of some plants, and can even infest the hollow stem of berry canes. when you cut open the cane you find the interior cavity is full of the stuff, and once that happens the entire rootstock must be dug out and burned because NOTHING will cure it.

Can/does PM live in the ventilation duct work, or on the walls of the grow room? Or does it need to have plant life to survive?

Fman said:

Can/does PM live in the ventilation duct work, or on the walls of the grow room? Or does it need to have plant life to survive?

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the spores can live anywhere, and all they need is humidity and warmth to bloom and make more spores.

PM is always present to one degree or another, even if you dont see it.

it rides in on your clothing, from fruits and vegetables, on the intake from outside, it's everywhere. if conditions are amenable to it's growth it can become a real problem, and the solution is always REDUCED HUMIDITY.

I thought I may have to chime in on this...
In Australia, and I imagine in many places all around the world, we use Tea Tree oil to kill and prevent grow room mould.

Why?

Actually my fingers will probably fall off before I type all the benefits (have a google), but the main pluses are:

* 2 drops in some water on a incense burner = kills all mould/spores/bacteria/bugs in the room
= actually deodorizes the smell alot
Unlike burning sulphur, you can use Tea Tree oil ALL the time, lights on, lights off, fans on, fans off. And you can run it up to harvest!
Having just a nice weak to med strength will give the buds virtually no difference in smell. I ran it really strong once to see if I could really mask the smell instead of using a carbon filter, it worked, but the buds had a slight pine/tea tree smell to them, but smoked up all the same

If you want to go one step further, use high quality beeswax candles in the burner instead of cheap paraffin wax tea candles.
Beeswax (google it) is a natural ionizer when burnt killing spores in the air.
Just be sure to buy lead free wicks (google it) which was a problem years ago with burning candles in enclosed areas.
But it last for ages and is relatively cheap (Australian is best of course, as with the Tea Tree)

Everyone I know does this, everyone I tell who tries this never stops

No magic Harry Potter concoctions, just some oil and a burner

Feel free to google both

Cheers Jimmy.

so if i had one wish any one wanna guess what it would be??
PM has been a serious pain in my ass this round, seranade could only keep it in check...i think i might have to invest in a UV staralizer and see how that works out