Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Discussion in 'Organics' started by headtreep, Mar 21, 2013.


    sgarcata Member

    sorry for delay... bunch of "life" stepped in. I was following Soma's approach... think it has to do with getting oxygen down there plus a place for excess water to collect out of the soil.

    sgarcata Member

    So the BT doesn't harm the worms, but attacks the fungus gnat larvae? I was wondering about that.

    sgarcata Member

    Amazing! thanks for the details. Where do you find is the best source for the nematodes? I've bought from Arbico in the past, but don't have a reliable microscope to check.

    sgarcata Member

    I only add kitchen scraps, but they LOVE cantaloupe and avocado. I've decided to start "cooking" my egg shells so they make smaller bits for them.
    WindyCityKush likes this.

    Biggobelly Member

    I get mine from Amazon. The Sf (Steinernema feltiae) are for fungus gnat control...and they work on root aphids too.
    WindyCityKush and CaptainCAVEMAN like this.

    Fastslappy Well-Known Member

    2 weeks after some BT my fungus flies be gone
    WindyCityKush likes this.

    bizfactory Well-Known Member

    What BT product did you use? Thanks!

    elkamino Well-Known Member

    These have worked for me


    They come in many forms on Amazon and elsewhere

    bizfactory Well-Known Member

    I actually have that exact stuff in my cart on Amazon! Thanks.
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    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    Hey everyone. wondering if anyone could help me out with this.... The strain is Confidential Cheese, starting noticing slow growth around day 10...

    These plants got some bad leaf growth early in flower. There are a few things I'm considering for the cause....

    1) too much compost in the mix making it stay saturated and "choking" out the roots a bit of O2 and or causing the Ph to become off from limiting the microbial activity.

    2) I have been using growstone, basically recycled glass turned into pumice, and its breaking down quickly in the mix (within a couple grows), and a lack of drainage material made my mix off, too saturated and resulting in the same thing as i am hypothesizing above.

    basically i was unable to water as often as i would have liked to keep CEC in the soil going, and I think maybe there was water in the outskirts of the soil, but the main rootball had used up what was available, resulting in a lack of CEC in the soil, microbes slowed, as well as uptake of H2O for the plant.

    3) too much N and caused delayed/slowed start to flowering? Is it N burn at the leaf tips/margins?


    they seem to be doing much better now. new growth is coming on every day and is noticable.

    thanks for your time guys, always appreciated.

    kkt3 Well-Known Member

    Hey ShLuby, I went 100% on my clones last time. All I did was cut off a piece of my aloe plant. Had my cups with dampened soil ready, then cut the clone branch, scored the outside of it for about 1/2", squeezed the aloe branch to make the aloe softer, then dipped the clone into the aloe and held it in there for about 10 seconds. Then pushed the clone into the soil and that's it!!!

    WindyCityKush Well-Known Member

    great method. how long did they take to root on average.
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    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    When you clone in soil.... do you have to give the stem a little water every day?? like basically just drip around the stem so the cutting has water close by to take up?

    my clones are starting to root now in the cloner. took a little longer than i would have liked.... but definitely an effective alternative. i only soaked them once for about 12 hours in the aloe/water concoction. i think next time im going soak them twice, and also do a dip in the aloe leaf itself after the first day or two and let the gel sit on the stem for a bit. but it's working as is now :)

    i think i'm going to do a kelp foliar when they are in the cloner next time as well. just make a little kelp tea for everything and give them some on the foliage.
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    kkt3 Well-Known Member

    Usually around 10 days and they have started to root.

    I kept the soil damp but not to damp. Like you say, a few drops of rainwater every now and then.
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    WeedWitchOR Active Member

    Whew... feel like I deserve a cookie after reading all that :)

    Doing my homework before setting up my tent. Will still do outdoor but want to to add indoor space for pheno hunting or off season stuff. Will be a 4x4 tent, still working out lighting. Separate veg area. Planning a mix of 20-25g pots and 5g for testing assuming I can get logistics to work. Big pots will be no-till for as long as possible. Smaller pots will be recycled.

    Soil mix will be organic bag soil amended with ewc, compost, leaf mold, rotted wood, rabbit poop, misc aeration and various meals/rock dusts as needed.

    Looking forward to getting this going.

    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    as long as you understand what's going on with the biology you'll be fine. careful with the rotting wood, you should soak it in a pre charge like you would biochar, i know someone else who uses it and he said it can rob your soil of nutrients the same way the char does.

    no tills are where i'm headed next. it just makes sense. think of a real pedon of soil and the horizons within it. top layer is the organic matter, next sublayer is slightly organic from having materials leaching into the soil. over the time lowest horizons will become depleted of organics from the original mix, and leave behind the rock dusts and other minerals as well as the peat and drainage. so this would be your parent material horizon. over the course of the grow you add more organic material to the top layer of soil (as would naturally happen in nature when things die and foliage is shed). water is taken up from parent material layers for most of the transpiration that the plant does. the plant feeds from the upper horizons where the organic materials are and microbes are breaking stuff down. replica of nature :)

    MAKE SURE you have something for mulch (rice hulls, sticks and stems from cannabis, thick layer of canna leaves, ect ect). I have found that to be one of the most crucial parts of organics. mulch not only slows evaporation from the soil, but it makes the soil wick its moisture throughout the pot. Also, things that don't appreciate light (roots, worms, mycelia) can now grow and roam to the very edge of the upper horizon of organic material and consume EVERYTHING. Have fun and share your results :)

    NWHeadies Active Member

    what are good plants to grow in your no till while there is no cannabis plant in it to help grow your soil food web? I have clover on the way and i will be planting that for sure but any other suggestions?
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    ShLUbY Well-Known Member

    BAS has a 12 seed variety pack they sell that I picked up... pretty diverse. I left a empty spot in the middle of the pot and when i would trim the clippings, i would bury them in the soil in the middle and within a week or two they would be consumed back into organic matter.

    the main thing is you need to be turning the crops you grow, between canna crops, back into the soil. another important thing to note is that it's better to let them grow as long as possible so they can have the best effect on trying to cycle nutrients with them when you turn them back into the soil.

    DonBrennon Well-Known Member

    Quality post..................been thinkin about this muchos lately and done a little digging without success.

    Been trying to find a list of plants that are known to form mycorhizae with the particular fungi that are thought to infect cannabis, ie glomus intraradices & glomus mosseae. In my mind, if you plant some of these in as companions and keep them livin in between your soil's always innoculated.
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    I used biochar for the first time on my current crop and had major problems. Plants looked fine at first but quickly became deficient and weakened. It didn't take long for PM & insects to take advantage of the situation, which cost me at least two weeks.
    I tested the soil and ph was also too high. Not sure if this was from biochar or the calcined clay that I was too lazy to rinse before mixing. :dunce: o_O

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