Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
I thought about a soil bed, but the tent is in my room xD, I don't know for some reason it seems better to me to have a couple 15 gal pots or 20 gal pots than a soil bed.... maybe its all in my head xD.
If my growroom floor could handle the weight of a bed, I'd get one. With living soil, the higher the volume the better, and the less work you'll have to do thru the grow.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, hope this finds you all well.

I was thinking about starting at some point a no till, inside my 2x4 grow tent, and I was thinking about getting either a big enough smart pot or a container from home depot, which one do you guys think would be better for it?
2 15 gal plastic pots will fit. That's what I use. There's room for a couple 3's and a couple 1/2 gal actually, lol. That way you can move them around if you need to. Mine are heavy as fuck though. I used some lava rock and that shit's heavy.

IMG_4066.JPG
 

DoobieDoobs

Well-Known Member
If my growroom floor could handle the weight of a bed, I'd get one. With living soil, the higher the volume the better, and the less work you'll have to do thru the grow.
yeah I would like to have a big bed, but I need something I can move around xD.

2 15 gal plastic pots will fit. That's what I use. There's room for a couple 3's and a couple 1/2 gal actually, lol. That way you can move them around if you need to. Mine are heavy as fuck though. I used some lava rock and that shit's heavy.
Alright, I like that, I think I'll look for something like that or one of those 125 liter containers from home depot. Hey guys I have a question about no tilling, I more or less understand that I need to keep using mulch after mulch and those mulches will give nutrients to my grows, but I wonder if for the first few grows I need to use organic amendments as well? They say the first grows are the hardest since there is little life going on, I got quite a few of those, bone meal, fish meal, etc.
 

GreenBean 420

Well-Known Member
If anyone’s running no till earthboxes I’d love to see some pics. Anyone with cover crop or does everyone just cover them with the cover?super new to no till and organics
 

XtraGood

Well-Known Member
In aloe the saponins and polysaccharides act as great surfactants. Salicylic acid kick-starts the plants defense mechanisms. It can be used at low doses for foliar sprays.
Though some time has passed, this post caught my interest. I saw SM-90, labled as surfactant used as insecticide, got removed from shelves for labeling: having salicylic acid in there; it had surfactants as well. Now I want to make salicylic acid + aloe foliar spray. How low of a dose is a low dose of salicylic acid? Just need to keep ph reasonable...or?
 

hot_box_enthusiast

Well-Known Member
I've read and re read TLO v2 by The Rev and am considering finally getting started. One issue that just doesnt seem properly (or for me) addressed is what are the needs for a "cooking space" indoors and whats the best way to achieve this. My understanding is not to trust compost that is outside as too much risk to introduce pest etc.

I like the idea of recycling and re amending soil, but don't understand how to do this indoors. I want to fill a 60ft2 garden. There must be something obvious I am missing because I tried to google about this as well using terms around indoor composting etc.

help or direction appreciated
 

hot_box_enthusiast

Well-Known Member
I guess I am wondering how do you cook soils when trying to run indoors and can’t cook outside for part of the year?

it seems like you almost need two “sets” of soils… the one in use and the one that needs to cook for the next run // (since i’m assuming when the current run ends you have to re amend and re cook the soil which takes 30 days and if you want to start your next grow right away you therefore need a second batch of soil ready to go)

so it seems you would want two sets of soil the currently growing batch and the currently cooking batch which would/could also be improved with EWC. It seems doing this indoors allows control of temperature and limit bugs and control them better.

is there something stupid about this idea? I can’t find more about the whole cooking and recycling between runs. Thanks
 

Polyuro

Well-Known Member
I guess I am wondering how do you cook soils when trying to run indoors and can’t cook outside for part of the year?
Best method is to cook soil ahead of time in the grow container. U can stack these on top of each other too. They don't need light just water and turning every once and awhile.
 

farangar

Well-Known Member
I guess I am wondering how do you cook soils when trying to run indoors and can’t cook outside for part of the year?

it seems like you almost need two “sets” of soils… the one in use and the one that needs to cook for the next run // (since i’m assuming when the current run ends you have to re amend and re cook the soil which takes 30 days and if you want to start your next grow right away you therefore need a second batch of soil ready to go)

so it seems you would want two sets of soil the currently growing batch and the currently cooking batch which would/could also be improved with EWC. It seems doing this indoors allows control of temperature and limit bugs and control them better.

is there something stupid about this idea? I can’t find more about the whole cooking and recycling between runs. Thanks
you could use veganics which does not need to 'cook'.
look up kyle kushman he has a lot of info about it.
 

Jcue81

Member
Wow, been reading this thread from the beginning with the intention of reading it all the way through before posting with questions, but after 80 pages I am so excited I want to get started getting my mix together.

The mix I am planning on was from 2013, so my main question is has the recommended base mix evolved since then? Can someone help poke holes or make suggestions on the below for me?


33% -
1 part peat
1 part coco coir

33% -
2 parts perlite (I already have this but could be convinced to use one part something else for aeration.

33% -
1 part Coast of Maine Organic Lobster Compost
1 part Organic Mushroom Compost
(Or 1 part Organic EWC)
Planning on top dressing 2” with EWC

½ cup crab meal per CF
½ cup kelp meal per CF
½ cup ahimsa neem cake per CF
4 cups rock dust

How much DE to mix in for pest control?

my plan is to reuse 1 40 gallon fabric pot I have to grow three plants at a time in a 4x4 under a single LED. Thoughts on that?

thanks so much!
 

farangar

Well-Known Member
Wow, been reading this thread from the beginning with the intention of reading it all the way through before posting with questions, but after 80 pages I am so excited I want to get started getting my mix together.

The mix I am planning on was from 2013, so my main question is has the recommended base mix evolved since then? Can someone help poke holes or make suggestions on the below for me?


33% -
1 part peat
1 part coco coir

33% -
2 parts perlite (I already have this but could be convinced to use one part something else for aeration.

33% -
1 part Coast of Maine Organic Lobster Compost
1 part Organic Mushroom Compost
(Or 1 part Organic EWC)
Planning on top dressing 2” with EWC

½ cup crab meal per CF
½ cup kelp meal per CF
½ cup ahimsa neem cake per CF
4 cups rock dust

How much DE to mix in for pest control?

my plan is to reuse 1 40 gallon fabric pot I have to grow three plants at a time in a 4x4 under a single LED. Thoughts on that?

thanks so much!
Swap the perlite for rice hulls or pumice.
 

bobrown14

Well-Known Member
peat not coco
add Karanja Cake (wont need DE with Neem) along with the Neem Cake
rice hulls
VErmicompost instead of Mushroom soil but thats just me
 

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Black Kow, composted cow manure, has been in my mixes whenever I have it along with EWC and Back To Nature Cotton Cotton Burr Compost. The only Cotton Burr Compost to ever use.
 
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