timmah1979
Active Member
That’s what I used. Ffof. And to previous question these barely moved only when I was poking the root section with my microscope. So I’m guessing aphids.
STRAINLY
- Thread starter jungle666
- Start date
Was definitely aphids in my case. This is the second time taking in clones with aphids. I actually showed you the first time on IG and you confirmed it. Those were black aphids, this time they were the smaller red ones.
For the record, the aphids did not come from Auntie Jane. I received a great cut from them with no issues. Highly recommended.
Definitely doing botaniguard 22 and nematodes after a few more drenches. I’ve heard good things about that approach.
timmah1979
Active Member
So is best practice to quarantine for 2 weeks, scope below/above the leafs, but then also treat the medium they arrive in? I guess its a dunk either way to kill/neutralize whatever might be residing in that medium? Its that last step that did me in presuming this is where they came from.
quiescent
Well-Known Member
When taking in a new plant or once a clone from my garden is rooted I put it through the ringer of ipm in the first two weeks.
Dr zymes, drench and foliar. Neem/karanja mixed with essential oils. Micronized sulphur. Spinosad, I use captain jacks. Maybe a foliar with a ferment if they're hungry.
At this point, I’ll probably only take in snips. No more soil/coco or roots to transfer anything. Dip them and root them myself.
timmah1979
Active Member
Thx, I see Dr Zymes also has nematodes. Recommended for ongoing preventative maintenance?
colocowboy
Well-Known Member
Yes definitely, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
quiescent
Well-Known Member
I alternate weekly between neem/karanja/oils and Dr Zymes afterwards in veg. I hit them with everything in the previous post, in the same order, again the first two weeks of flowering.
colocowboy
Well-Known Member
I wouldn’t flower for at least a month after using something like kontos. There is a reason it’s meant for ornamentals. It has 30 days residual, you would presume new (bud) growth would be free of residual.
It’s preferred, generally, to stick to multimodal “organic” means such as quiescent offered. I mean we are taking it into our body!
It’s preferred, generally, to stick to multimodal “organic” means such as quiescent offered. I mean we are taking it into our body!
Manidoo
Member
Those Root Aphids have tail pipes which distinguish them from other soil insects. I don't like recieving cuts in soil due to them and if I do, I make sure to contain the plant so if there's a colony established I can not see, no flyers can escape in search of a new host. These are the vectors for infecting other plants. Just a simple clear bag around the pot and soil twist tied to the stem is a great prevention for the case of spreading. I won't even bother with soil drenching once a Soil Aphid had been spotted, instead of the risk if it doesn't get burned it will be immediately bare rooted and placed in a makeshift dwc setup.
gosabres716
Well-Known Member
Good luck, im in same boat testing cuts to see.
I'm pretty sure Archive got the cut from the same guy I bought the bx packs from so I'm not 100% sold on the cuts authenticity.
Bakersfield
Well-Known Member
I talked with him about 2 months ago.
I asked if he had the real variegated Chem D or the Phinest Chem D and he told me he carried the Phinest cut.
I grew the Phinest cut of Chem D for over a year and finally let her go.
Phrankly it's only good and not real good.
Did it resemble Chem D in flower?
Manidoo
Member
That cut sold as Chem D really didn't look like it at all. I kinda shook my head seeing this while making mental notes. The cut is unmistakeable easy to identify just like the 91 SKVA Cut and the other Chemdogs, that variegated trait can be seen even when those micronutrients are abundant, it's just much darker and not so bold then. Then it's easy to not notice as it's only a small% that display variegation and blades that grow slightly deformed with the occasional half blade with an angle.
Chem family might try to knock the Phinest Tissue Cultured Cut saying it is not a true cut- lol put em side by side and if anything is different it's the health of the Phinest being a tissue culture grown cut having that advantage. They were upset over the Chem spill hahaha. After say 2010 thee cuts were found abundantly shared outright and it didn't require being a part of the cliques and have club verses the have not club.
Chem family might try to knock the Phinest Tissue Cultured Cut saying it is not a true cut- lol put em side by side and if anything is different it's the health of the Phinest being a tissue culture grown cut having that advantage. They were upset over the Chem spill hahaha. After say 2010 thee cuts were found abundantly shared outright and it didn't require being a part of the cliques and have club verses the have not club.
Manidoo
Member
Surely there's plenty that might think the Chem D and 91 are the best ever, but frankly after smoking for 35 years and growing just about as long- it's more of a story then it actually being a Grail, the Grail of weed varies from person to person and I will say that yes the Chemdogs are potent, but there's better and stable too that's easier to grow if you grow enough and compare enough lol..
Even though it's not like it was before say 2010, to this day there's more rumor and parroting online then there is actually people who have really grown and smoked these cuts. 99% of those that posted in the collective were just posers following like Sheep do!
colocowboy
Well-Known Member
No, it’s not chem d. Not any chem d. Honestly the phinest cut was fine, the thing about chem d, phinest cut included, is that she really hits potency at 11-12 weeks. You can cut her sooner but she isn’t as powerful, terps are less violent too taken sooner. Not that I mind it’s funk, my favorite really.
**he is sending me the 91 to check out, said he has been told it’s not correct either. Still hunting that 91 too anyway, I’m not even expecting it to be correct.
Last edited: