Ultra Stealth DIY Basement Room

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
First of all I'd like to say hello. I've been lurking here for about two months now gathering all the information that I can before I start asking for advice. I've been an avid forum member on many forums over the years for many different things and Lord knows I hate when noobs come in and want hand fed advice. So I hope I'm not one of those.

Secondly, I'm not entirely new to growing my own herb. I grew bud in the house we rented in college. You know...when the white cabinet grows from Home Depot were popular back in the early 00s. I was an immature, broke, full-time job + student back then. So I had little resources to devote to growing and I'll be frank, it showed. Still, under the 400w MH/HPS, I grew some decent candy.

Zoom forward 12~14 years and I am in a much better place. Married, big house, time and resources. We (wife and I) are ready to not burn up $3000/year for slightly better than average herb. So it's time to get back to cultivating!

What really prompted this endeavor is we are remodeling our basement. The basement is split into three areas, a big finished room (A), a half finished HVAC/storage/work area (B), and then a crawlspace that is under our large den room above (C). There was a solid wall that ran down the basement stairs. We tore that out to open up the room a little. And then my idea was born.

Here is a picture from area B looking under the stairs into area A. This is where the wall was...heck you can see the floor color difference of where the wall ran. Ignore the refrigerator...it's a DIY kegerator that will eventually be tapped into a wall on the other side of the room where our bar will be.

A
c.jpg

Another picture of the proposed grow area.

B
b.jpg

And another...

C
c.jpg

That is a four foot level for scale. Initially the idea was to frame in basically right down the middle of that protruding column of bricks. That is where the wall line is for the wall that separates areas A and B that's behind us in the pictures. In framing down that line, with where the stairs are, most would never put it together that there can be space there. Ideal right? Not quite. The problem is if I framed down that line I would have very little space. Like two feet in width. To be honest, that's not big enough to warrant this whole thing IMO. I know I could grow some fine medicine in a 2x2 but I just don't feel it would be worth it. Not when the only thing restricting me there is the idea people would never put two and two together that there is hidden space there. So if I bumped this new wall out a little, on the other side of the brick column / big metal i frame on the ceiling, I can get almost 3.5 feet if I want.

So here is a quick photoshop of my idea on how to frame this hidden grow room.

base.jpg

A few quick things...
  • Ideally this would be all encompassing. Seedling/clone area, veg area, and a flower area for a pseudo perpetual grow. Not constant but it'd be nice that when one run is done flowering another run is ready to go. I'd also like to be able to store my nutes, all the little gizmos and gadgets, and possibly even have a built in drying area. All inside this 'hidden' area. This whole area will be behind one locked door that separates rooms A and B, and also behind it's own locked door (where the 51" designator is).
  • Funding is really not a restriction. Although I'd like to come in, building materials and growing items, under $2000.
  • I have all kinds of access right there. A power line I can tap into easily that is it's own line from the breaker. The far right wall of the flower area is a foundation wall. So I could exhaust straight outside if I want. Our washer/dryer is literally right above the flower area... Or the upper wall of the flower area is right beneath the garage. So I could exhaust out to the garage and neatly tuck the exhaust port under the stairs in the garage. There is an AC duct right next to this area in the ceiling. And heck there is even a water line that runs to an outdoor spigot that is in the garage (by said stairs).
  • BTW I plan to not trim out the door going into this hidden room. That way I can literally throw a giant piece of pegboard over the door and you'd never even know it is there! Perfect! Not like people are ever in that area of the basement, no kids here, so this is just being extra pre-cautious/creative.
So in the diagram above the veg area is under the stairs where the fridge is in the pictures above. And the red flower area is where the 4 foot level was. To the left of the veg (green) and white (staging) areas I will rebuild the wall we tore out. But this time it won't go all the way to the ceiling but will follow the stair line. And then under the stairs on that wall the Mrs wants some built in book shelves. If the book shelves weren't in the picture I would get almost an additional foot in length out of this. But it'll look nice and will make guests forget there is more room under the stairs. So I'm ok with it. Since the veg area is under the stairs I won't quite have the height I'll have in the flower area. With the footprint dimensions, if I were to build a flat ceiling, the max height I can get here is 4 feet. Which I assume should be alright since the max height I'll have in flower is ~7 feet and that's not including the light height. So if I can veg to 2-3 feet I figure that'll be about right.

As for the actual growing...I plan to use LED for the veg area and HPS for flower. I've been eyeing the Mars Hydro 96 reflector for veg (supposed to be a perfect 3x2 footprint) and an air cooled, sun system hood, 600w EYE Hortilux bulb, with a 600w Solistek dimmable digital ballast. I plan to SCROG. I plan to use Promix HP in smart pots. I plan to use the entire Elite line from Blue Planet Nutrients. I plan to pop some beans to start but will likely clone after that until we are tired of the strain on hand.

Now onto where I need some advice. Ventilation. This whole area will be entirely sealed up. And I mean SEALED. I am going to use acoustic rockwool insulation in all of the walls and ceilings and I may use DOW Tuff-R boards for my walls (anyone watch Mr Tight on Youtube?) in leu of drywall. Everything taped up nice and clean. The problem I'm having trying to conceptualize this is how to handle airflow because since I'll have veg and flower in the same "room" I plan to frame in a wall that separates the flower area from the rest. That way I can light seal it off easily. The door is orange in the diagram above.

I can have passive intakes wherever I want. One coming in from the side of the veg area, one coming in from the side of the flower area. They can be passive, they can be powered. The world is my oyster. I've been looking at the Can Max Pro fans, Phresh carbon filters, and I'd even like to use a muffler. The good part about ventilation here is my duct runs *should* be very short. I mean so short I may not even use ducting but some hard PVC piping to smooth out the airflow. We'll see.

So my questions are relatively simple.... do I use one fan, one scrubber, for this WHOLE area? I know vegging plants don't really smell but that area will need airflow. If so... how should I handle that with the wall that separates the flower area from the rest? If I do something clever there to allow airflow but not light through that wall, how does that affect my fans CFM requirements? In my reading I've seen answers about CFM all over the place. Replace the entire area once every 3-5 minutes all the way to replace the air in the area twice every minute... That's a HUGE difference in CFM ratings. This area totals around ~250 cubic feet I believe...a bit less. But I want this done RIGHT. Even if that means a louder fan or extra cost. BTW the basement is very cool in both summer and winter. 70* easily. With a good fan I don't see a 600w air cooled hood with short duct runs causing me heat issues. But who knows?

Is 600 watts enough? Too much? If heat isn't an issue...would squeezing in a 1000w light make sense? Or provide that much more yield? I'm going to assume 600w is about perfect for this space.

Anyway, thanks for reading and I apologize for the long post. If you have any tips, tricks, or clever ideas for this proposed space please write a comment. I'd love to hear them!
 

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That beam would be sweet for hanging lights. Looks like you have a pretty good handle on things. Can you utilize the "White" Space for Flower as well? I think your veg area would support it. I started off with about half of my space for veg. Ended up moving my partition to accommodate flowering plants.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Are you planning on pulling the makeup air from the house and venting it back into the house? you'll be amazed at how much heat you'll be producing and one run off of central air won't do much IMO. It looks like your going to have a nice setup, moving 250 cfm is not much of an issue but it may not be enough to keep things at a reasonable temp. My room (8x8x8) gets up to high eighties with 280 cfm when temps are 70 outside where I pull fresh air, running a 1000 watts. Watch your veg height as you quickly run out in stretch lol.
 

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
Well the metal beam won't be centered in the space. I can make the flower area a bit longer but I need space to move around in there. Plus I'll be honest I only need so much...

For the air I'm going to be pulling in air from the basement but I will be dumping the exhaust out to the garage. So I won't be recirculating any hot air back into the room.

As for CFM... I'm going to buy the bigger 8" Can Pro which runs at 530cfm on low. This should be replacing air at least once every minute...on low. :)

I'll post some pics in the morning. I marked off all the walls and such. I'll start framing this weekend.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Well the metal beam won't be centered in the space. I can make the flower area a bit longer but I need space to move around in there. Plus I'll be honest I only need so much...

For the air I'm going to be pulling in air from the basement but I will be dumping the exhaust out to the garage. So I won't be recirculating any hot air back into the room.

As for CFM... I'm going to buy the bigger 8" Can Pro which runs at 530cfm on low. This should be replacing air at least once every minute...on low. :)

I'll post some pics in the morning. I marked off all the walls and such. I'll start framing this weekend.
The reason I asked about the intake, exhaust was to see if you were running a balanced system in regards to the house, by pulling air out of the house, massive amounts by house standards, and not bringing in makeup air, you are going to put your place into a huge negative. Putting the house into a negative has some really serious consequences like mould inside walls and possible appliance back drafting. If possible you should try to bring in as much air as your exhausting. As for a bookshelf, perhaps put it where the peg board is with hidden hinges and a wheel hidden by the kick plate, that is the entrance to the bat cave/lab lol.
 

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
Hmmm I hadn't really considered that. Well I have tons of options if that's a problem. I can vent into the basement somewhere. I could pull in from the outside. Ideas on what's best?

Here are a few quick pics. I've started painting walls down there and I will be doing the floor white before I start framing. I've used a marker to best show the layout. Sorry it's kind of hard to see.

The arrows are where I considered running the passive intake(s).

IMG_1007.JPG

This kind of shows how I'm going to frame up under the stairs. Ideally I'll have a little fluoro seedling/clone area built in above the veg as marked.

IMG_1008.JPGIMG_1011.JPG IMG_1010.JPG
 

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
Lol thanks. It won't be the biggest grow area but I'd like for it to be setup the best it can be. 2x3 veg to a ~3.5x~3.5 should be plenty big enough for our needs.

One problem I'm having is figuring out how to configure/mount the hood, ducting, fan, filter, and muffler in the flower room up and out of the way. I figured I'd build the room and see what I've got before I make those purchases. But some of those parts are large...

A mountain air 10 is nearly three feet long O_O
IMG_1005.JPG
 

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
I'm leaning towards the Sun System Blockbuster because it's suppose to cast a perfect 4x4 net and dimensionally it's one of the smaller 8" hoods at 25x31x10 inches...
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
If me I would (and do) pull from outside but I grow in a shed so a bit different, I would basically treat the grow area as a seperate entity sealed from the house it self and vent out as well. Not the most economic way but the best way for the structure. My second method would be to pull from house and vent back in.
 

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
I could easily pull air from the outside straight into the cave and then remove the air straight back out. The problem with that though is the air will be hot in the summer and possibly too cold in the winter...
 

HandyGringo

Well-Known Member
Lots of potential. But if you're going to be growing here for more than a few years I'd go with building proper LED lights for flowering instead of HPS. Much more efficient. You'll save lots on power, and you'll save lots on not having to worry about heat. + You get more vertical space.

Also if I were you, I'd an indent where the entrances should be.. I'll try to explain myself..



The red lines is the actual door. That way you can block the entire entrance, or perhaps make it a bit shorter, or just put a cabinet in front of it etc. You can't really put a cabinet in front of a door without people seeing behind the cabinet, but if you do it like in the picture you can have a completely light proof and sealed etc door, without people ever realizing there's a door. Doesn't even have to be a door, can be one of those zipper seals.

Does any of this make sense?
 
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mopaNi

Well-Known Member
See after all my reading it seems to me that LED lights without the ability to be properly cooled actually run hotter than an efficient air cooled hood setup. Especially in a small sealed room. Correct me if I'm wrong. I originally started out with the intention on doing LED. I was looking at the KIND K5 750. So I was prepared to drop some cash. Again correct me if I'm wrong but I'd rather have denser nugs than frost and I believe that's how that story usually goes?

So the idea was to veg them under LED to keep them squatty and then flower in HPS. And maybe eventually setup some supplementary UFOs in there to widen the spectrum available.
 

HandyGringo

Well-Known Member
See after all my reading it seems to me that LED lights without the ability to be properly cooled actually run hotter than an efficient air cooled hood setup. Especially in a small sealed room. Correct me if I'm wrong. I originally started out with the intention on doing LED. I was looking at the KIND K5 750. So I was prepared to drop some cash. Again correct me if I'm wrong but I'd rather have denser nugs than frost and I believe that's how that story usually goes?

So the idea was to veg them under LED to keep them squatty and then flower in HPS. And maybe eventually setup some supplementary UFOs in there to widen the spectrum available.
I can't imagine a world where a LED would run hotter than a HPS. Any how, even if an air cooled hps is as cool as a LED, you will still save a shit load on power, and you will have more vertical space to work with. Also, if you're going LED you should really look into building it yourself. A lot more bang for your buck.
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
For soundproofing-

The stairwell will conduct sound outta there like crazy. I would not attach grow room framing to the stairwell.

The foam won't stop sound, but 5/8" drywall will.

In a wall or ceiling, R13 fiberglass in the wall, R19 in the ceiling. Spending more $$ will get you zero improvement with sound. Don't waste $ on specialized insulation.
 

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
LED certainly isn't as hot a HPS. But there are no active cooling options for the "hood" like HPS has. Correct? Thus in my eyes it would technically heat the room more than a ducted air cooled HPS setup.

I won't be attaching anything to the stairs. And other than an oscillating fan or some pc cases fans for air movement in the veg area under the stairs, there won't be any noise makers there.

As for insulation and the walls. I'm going to drywall the outside of the walls, including the inner walls, but the side of the walls facing the grow areas will be done with the tuff boards. And I'll be putting Roxul sound and fire insulation between them. Everything caulked and taped up. Including under the stairs. I can't imagine sound will be an issue.
 
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Rrog

Well-Known Member
Sound would easily be an issue with what you describe if you're making much noise like a radio or motors mounted to the framing that's attached to the stairwell framing

Don't compress the insulation, as this will conduct a vibration. Fiberglass is the best choice for insulation, but since it's also the cheapest, people are quick to spend more.
 

mopaNi

Well-Known Member
Unless someone has a better idea for insulation. The roxul stuff is kind of pricey. But it's the best I can source locally afaik for acoustics.
 
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