Vermicomposters Unite! Official Worm Farmers Thread

CrunchBerries

CrunchBerries

Well-Known Member
Received my worms first thing this morning! Thank you USPS! Worms were in great shape and took to their new home like pigs to shit. I am going to wait a few days and then feed them the food scrap mash I’ve been saving. Probably spread the mash over a half paper towel and lay on top. Moisture seems good as there are no signs of anybody trying to fly the coop. Man, I’m so excited for this project! I probably/definitely need to read through this thread again.
 
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Northwood

Well-Known Member
JustBlazin said:
thanks for the reply
so if its not malted its not really worth using
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I've made beer by malting my own. It's easy, but takes about a week. If you're after enzymes for whatever reason, homemade might be a better option (it's definitely cheaper!). The last step to making malted barley during the kilning stage is to maintain a dry temperature of up to 200 F for a couple hours. That's hot enough to denature every enzymes that I know of, not to mention kill off all but the most hardy thermophilic bacteria. So by making it yourself at home (if not using it for beer) you could skip that last step and simply dry it out in a dehydrator or in your partially open oven on a cookie sheet with the oven light turned on only.

I don't think you'll find a lot of enzymes in commercial malted barley sold for the purpose of making great beer.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
I was searching through kijiji this am and found a guy selling worm bins. Well what the hell now I’m the owner.
he said it was 3 weeks old. Only problem was the guy had a hard accent and I had trouble understanding him. Could only say excuse me so many times. Lol. Know about this thread I just gave up asking him questions.What I did make out was he feeds every Friday a large handful. Tote looks to be 15 gallon. Mix of shredded paper cardboard and old dried up leaves. Have no idea how many worms are in there. I’ll keep in the garage about 55f. Is there anything I should look out for the next while? I see food scraps so should be good for awhile. He did mention I should add grit. I have some rock dust any idea how much? Thx the pic is the bottom I just pushed some to the side 46EFAB90-E830-4A9E-8F0B-2AA3CCEB88C0.jpeg
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
Thought I’d add some green lol. There’s no air holes in the tote. He said just leave the lid off. I can see my dog already with nose in the air ,so I’ll keep it up high.
Reading here I remember about holes in the bottom. Can I just drill a bunch 1/16-1/8 in the bottom then put it on a rack. Or is just the lid off ok. 37590678-C52C-4135-9871-F33897636BC0.jpeg
 
hillbill

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Been inspired here to include things like fossilized Guano and rock phosphate, Green Sand, hardwood ash, fine crush limestone etc in my “grit”. A certain amount ends up sifting through and goes in mixes and teas. About the only composts I use are my EWC and Back To Nature Cotton Burr Compost in equal amounts.
 
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Northwood

Well-Known Member
myke said:
Thought I’d add some green lol. There’s no air holes in the tote. He said just leave the lid off. I can see my dog already with nose in the air ,so I’ll keep it up high.
Reading here I remember about holes in the bottom. Can I just drill a bunch 1/16-1/8 in the bottom then put it on a rack. Or is just the lid off ok.
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Is that for drainage or for worm migration to a top bin? Personally I make the holes bigger, nearly 5mm for migration to the upper bin. 3/16th inch drill bit is about perfect for my bin for either purpose. I drill a lot of them.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
Is that for drainage or for worm migration to a top bin? Personally I make the holes bigger, nearly 5mm for migration to the upper bin. 3/16th inch drill bit is about perfect for my bin for either purpose. I drill a lot of them.
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No this is just one bin. Thought maybe air holes were needed?
 
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Northwood

Well-Known Member
myke said:
Ok thanks. Watching videos now of stacking worm bins.
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The stacking does work, but I wouldn't go beyond 2 nested bins for each unit because the compaction due to weight will make very anaerobic conditions. And I only put the next bin on top once the material in the bottom bin is to the volume I want it while all the materials are pretty much decomposed already. That's what makes your worms migrate to the upper level for the food not available in its previous area of residence.

I've never screened or whatever my castings, because bag appeal isn't important to me for my own grow. What is, is the life it introduces. You're gonna freak when your grow explodes with springtails and mites and shit. But don't let it scare you. You're doing the right thing, and having your own worm bin is an entry point I believe in organics that takes us to the next level.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
The stacking does work, but I wouldn't go beyond 2 nested bins for each unit because the compaction due to weight will make very anaerobic conditions. And I only put the next bin on top once the material in the bottom bin is to the volume I want it while all the materials are pretty much decomposed already. That's what makes your worms migrate to the upper level for the food not available in its previous area of residence.

I've never screened or whatever my castings, because bag appeal isn't important to me for my own grow. What is, is the life it introduces. You're gonna freak when your grow explodes with springtails and mites and shit. But don't let it scare you. You're doing the right thing, and having your own worm bin is an entry point I believe in organics that takes us to the next level.
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Ok great thanks for your time, I’ll get one for this one to sit in. Just so the juices can drip out. Cheers.
 
L

loco41

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
The stacking does work, but I wouldn't go beyond 2 nested bins for each unit because the compaction due to weight will make very anaerobic conditions. And I only put the next bin on top once the material in the bottom bin is to the volume I want it while all the materials are pretty much decomposed already. That's what makes your worms migrate to the upper level for the food not available in its previous area of residence.

I've never screened or whatever my castings, because bag appeal isn't important to me for my own grow. What is, is the life it introduces. You're gonna freak when your grow explodes with springtails and mites and shit. But don't let it scare you. You're doing the right thing, and having your own worm bin is an entry point I believe in organics that takes us to the next level.
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I'm so thankful to have found forums that guided me to starting a worm bin. I have buddies that grow nice looking plants, but when I bring up my worm bins, they look at me like I fully lost my mind. I credit the little bit of success I have had so far being a newer grower to the vermicompost that gets created in the bins. Any signs of things being a little out of whack, a simple ewc topdress is always my first move. Plants always seem happier from it.

I might have to try the stacking method again. Might have to re-drill the bottom holes a bit bigger in my spare tote beforehand, but might actually get me to move these worms into some fresh bedding. About two years in that same bin and still going strong, happy and healthy from what I can tell.
 
TrippleDip

TrippleDip

Well-Known Member
Please help. Is my worm bin too dry and what is the best way to get it wet?

Setup. A bit over 1wk old, it consists of a wooden box on casters with a pvc grate at the bottom. Area is 2.5 sf and volume about 40 gallons. The initial bedding was 50:50 shredded paper and composted yard waste to a depth of 1". In the last week I have fed only three banana peels and a quarter of a banana, followed by shredded paper and dry leaves.

Problem. It's too dry. It's certainly drier than the 60-90% recommended in the "worms eat my garbage" book. Every day I add about a cup of water to the top of the bin, and every day the bedding on top is dry and when I stick a finger up the bottom it is dry as well. The soil directly underneath the bedding is moist (not enough to squeeze water from, but it clumps together). I'm not sure how deep the moist layer is.

Solution. What's the best way forward from here?
a) not worry, the bottom will always dry out​
b) not worry, the drying will slow as the soil gets deeper​
c) start adding two or more cups of water per day until the whole bin is moist.​
d) just water the bin like a planter to runoff​
e) put plastic film over the bottom to reduce air flow​
f) feed more wet food like tea leaves​

I am leaning towards d) water like a planter to runoff, probably close to a gallon of water required; should I water the whole bin or half today and half tomorrow?
 
N

Northwood

Well-Known Member
TrippleDip said:
Please help. Is my worm bin too dry and what is the best way to get it wet?

Setup. A bit over 1wk old, it consists of a wooden box on casters with a pvc grate at the bottom. Area is 2.5 sf and volume about 40 gallons. The initial bedding was 50:50 shredded paper and composted yard waste to a depth of 1". In the last week I have fed only three banana peels and a quarter of a banana, followed by shredded paper and dry leaves.

Problem. It's too dry. It's certainly drier than the 60-90% recommended in the "worms eat my garbage" book. Every day I add about a cup of water to the top of the bin, and every day the bedding on top is dry and when I stick a finger up the bottom it is dry as well. The soil directly underneath the bedding is moist (not enough to squeeze water from, but it clumps together). I'm not sure how deep the moist layer is.

Solution. What's the best way forward from here?
a) not worry, the bottom will always dry out​
b) not worry, the drying will slow as the soil gets deeper​
c) start adding two or more cups of water per day until the whole bin is moist.​
d) just water the bin like a planter to runoff​
e) put plastic film over the bottom to reduce air flow​
f) feed more wet food like tea leaves​

I am leaning towards d) water like a planter to runoff, probably close to a gallon of water required; should I water the whole bin or half today and half tomorrow?
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The only time I had to add water was when I was wetting the paper and cardboard bedding and some dried leaves to start my bins before I even added the worms. And that was like 17 years ago, but never again. If you eat fruit and vegetables in your house, surely your bins can't be dry? I suggest visiting the Walmart discount food trays they have now and get a big bag of questionable cantaloupes or something for $2. Good amount of moisture in that food if your family is subsisting on saw dust! *kidding*
 
TrippleDip

TrippleDip

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
The only time I had to add water was when I was wetting the paper and cardboard bedding and some dried leaves to start my bins before I even added the worms. And that was like 17 years ago, but never again. If you eat fruit and vegetables in your house, surely your bins can't be dry? I suggest visiting the Walmart discount food trays they have now and get a big bag of questionable cantaloupes or something for $2. Good amount of moisture in that food if your family is subsisting on saw dust! *kidding*
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Thanks. I'd like to go the route of regulating their water through their food, but also don't want to overfeed just staring out. I have a bunch of wet tea leaves for their next feeding. Clearance racks are a great idea btw, I usually avoid them because the food always goes bad, but now even that has a positive side.

It's so dry because the air is 20% humidity, 40% when running a humidifier, and both the top and bottom allow airflow through.

I actually went ahead and gave them a gallon of water and they seem much happier. Even adding a half gallon once a week is better than spraying a cup on the top every day, just from a work perspective.

Would still like to know, from those with flow through designs or worm inns, whether it would be better to keep adding water periodically, or try to restrict airflow with plastic wrap on the bottom?

---

Edit: the bin for anyone interested or looking for ideas. top is loose fitting and bin is 4" off the ground on casters
wormbin.jpg
 
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raggyb

raggyb

Well-Known Member
your design is very simple and I like it very much. I hope it works for you. I've had no luck with anything I tried but I already said that a bunch. I'm thinking of putting landscape fabric over the holes and sandwich that under a frame or try aquarium sealant so worms can't get through but extra moisture and worm urine does. It was inferred to me it shouldn't be necessary to lock them in if the worms are happy but I guess but mine prefered to crawl out for a quicker suicide so at the least this would keep them in and force them to get used to it hopefully. but anyway, i hope you let us know in a few months if covering with something or uncovered works because I have until 2022 to get this done, lol.


TrippleDip said:
Thanks. I'd like to go the route of regulating their water through their food, but also don't want to overfeed just staring out. I have a bunch of wet tea leaves for their next feeding. Clearance racks are a great idea btw, I usually avoid them because the food always goes bad, but now even that has a positive side.

It's so dry because the air is 20% humidity, 40% when running a humidifier, and both the top and bottom allow airflow through.

I actually went ahead and gave them a gallon of water and they seem much happier. Even adding a half gallon once a week is better than spraying a cup on the top every day, just from a work perspective.

Would still like to know, from those with flow through designs or worm inns, whether it would be better to keep adding water periodically, or try to restrict airflow with plastic wrap on the bottom?

---

Edit: the bin for anyone interested or looking for ideas. top is loose fitting and bin is 4" off the ground on casters
View attachment 4775780
Click to expand...
 
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