What are your thoughts on uppotting not for root growth but for water retention?

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
So im not in flower yet however im having to water these plants which are in soil like I have them in coco. Minimum once a day. They are in 10 gallon grow bags. Once they are in full flower the frequency I will have to water will be frustrating to say the least.

So what are your thoughts on up potting during stretch to give more soil for more water retention?

A second question piggy backing off of the 1st.

Do you know of any bloom only soil meant for this kind of thing?

I certainly dont want to use a nitrogen rich mix which would affect the 1st couple weeks of flower.
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Why not do it now since you're not in flower yet.
Thats my intent essentially. They are entering stretch now. I am very concerned about the high nitrogen values in the soils I use during the begining of flower. The timing is going to roll over into flower for sure before the additional soils nutrients are wasted.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Thats my intent essentially. They are entering stretch now. I am very concerned about the high nitrogen values in the soils I use during the begining of flower. The timing is going to roll over into flower for sure before the additional soils nutrients are wasted.
Oh hey I just found one for ya. Fox Farms Strawberry Fields. Maybe you can find it locally.

 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Oh hey I just found one for ya. Fox Farms Strawberry Fields. Maybe you can find I think locally.

Yep my local shop has it. Il take a look at it. Thank you sir.

@Kaliko
@PadawanWarrior

I was also considering using a seedling mix as the supplemental soil. Im using organic dry ammendments anyway. So if I used the seedling mix it would be super light and I would have control over the nutrients needed.

Im not looking for a soil to feed the plants. I was only asking about the flowering soil due to a want for lower nitrogen.

Think this makes sense at all? If you see any pitfalls to this please let me know.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Yep my local shop has it. Il take a look at it. Thank you sir.

@Kaliko
@PadawanWarrior

I was also considering using a seedling mix as the supplemental soil. Im using organic dry ammendments anyway. So if I used the seedling mix it would be super light and I would have control over the nutrients needed.

Think this makes sense at all? If you see any pitfalls to this please let me know.
That's great idea too.
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Use Ocean Forest. Dry ammendments are great . Add them week 3 of flower and again week 6 with maybe a tea or 2 and some calmag in the mix if your water isn't already loaded with it . Good amounts of calmag first handful of weeks will keep your ladies nice and green till the end . After that they should be on auto pilot . If for some reason u run short you can always feed nutes toward the end if need be .
Im trully not trying to have the soil feed the plants. I have my nutes. I have a great handle on using them. I prefer to be the one in control of that. Hot soil is a pain in the ass to temper. Much easier for me personally to slowly increase my nutrients than have to flush a soil out because its overloading the plant at the wrong time of its life cycle.

But thats just my grow style.
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
The key to organic is to always stay ahead of the curve . If next week you need a bloom boost then you should add that a week prior so that the plant has time to break it down and use it. Or use liquid nutes and just flush at the end . If you get behind in organic your plant will never catch up
Absolutely true.

Too much nitrogen in flower can retard flowering lowering yields. I dont want to have to flush because the soil is nitrogen rich.
 

Kaliko

Well-Known Member
Im trully not trying to have the soil feed the plants. I have my nutes. I have a great handle on using them. I prefer to be the one in control of that. Hot soil is a pain in the ass to temper. Much easier for me personally to slowly increase my nutrients than have to flush a soil out because its overloading the plant at the wrong time of its life cycle.

But thats just my grow style.
So if you want to feed right away then just use coco or promix
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Seedling mix is a Bad idea. Seedlings thruve in a very low ph . Most seedling mixes are in the upper to mid 5s in the ph . A large plant would do terrible in soil like this. At that point you would want to switch to coco and just feed . Say No to seedling mix . They are really only good for the first 2 weeks of cannabis life and then your plants will start to get weird and yellow.
pH level. Ah. Great point. I will need to add a buffer. Thsnk you for that bit there. Exactly the type of feedback I hope for.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Seedling mix is a Bad idea. Seedlings thruve in a very low ph . Most seedling mixes are in the upper to mid 5s in the ph . A large plant would do terrible in soil like this. At that point you would want to switch to coco and just feed . Say No to seedling mix . They are really only good for the first 2 weeks of cannabis life and then your plants will start to get weird and yellow.
Not true. Take a look at Light Warrior for example. It should come with perfect pH.

 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
I was saying flush because you were using flower nutes in that scenario. None of what I said would have you nitrogen rich by the finish line .
Im concerned for the 1st month of flower tbh. I dont need to slow progression by having them overloaded with nitrogen.

I am fully aware that they still need nitrogen during flower. Dont get me wrong there. However too much nitrogen during flower is a recipe for issues.
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Not true. Take a look at Light Warrior for example. It should come with perfect pH.

Im fairly certain recipe 420 has a version of that as well. You know my never dying love for that soil lmao.
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
Right the perfect ph for seedlings . Which is 5.5 I am not hear to debate at all. I am well versed in these soils. I used them for many years indoors until I switched to something else but I still use the Ocean forest outdoors. Light warrior is a pain in the ass. Don't belive me then give it a go yourself it is only good for the first week maybe 2 of the plants life then you should put into something a little higher in ph or yellowing will soon happen . If it works for you Awesome. Just don't for me and I was offering my advice . Which noone needs to take at all or just with a hrain of salt
Im just going to leave this here.
Screenshot_20210804-204107_Google.jpg
 

Wizzlebiz

Well-Known Member
I gave you an easy way to do just what you want. Why would I tell you exactly how to do it if it didn't work ? If you want to complicate it or question tride and true methods then go ahead. You really didn't need my help anyways then . Good luck with your grow .
Chill out dude. I know how to grow. Im not asking for advise on how to do it. I am asking the thoughts of the community on the topic I posted.
 

Kaliko

Well-Known Member
Im just going to leave this here.
View attachment 4958273
I have never had a bag of light warrior be anywhere near that ph . I was just trying to help. Obviously you just want to be smarter then me and you probably are. What do I know ? The answer was right there in google for ya . I am a dumb ass old man . Fuck what I said . You should definitely use that light warrior it's perfect
 

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
For what it’s worth the pH manufacturers claim rarely seem to be on point.

I got myself a professional pH probe after repeat results of issues mid flower. It was all pH related.

for example the soil I got claims a pH of 6.1-6.4

When tested it comes back as 5.8.

I now add dolomite lime to raise the ph to 6.2ish and those problems vanished.

On the transplanting side of things a light mix that you can feed at will is best for your growing style.

You can transplant mid flower it’s just harder with all that plant matter swaying about.

Transplanting has benefits up until the last 2-3 weeks in flower when it’s pointless to transplant after that.

Don’t know where the myth came that flowering plants don’t root. You put a 6 week old flowering plant in a new pot by the end there will be roots flowing throughout that new media!
 

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
For what it’s worth the pH manufacturers claim rarely seem to be on point.

I got myself a professional pH probe after repeat results of issues mid flower. It was all pH related.

for example the soil I got claims a pH of 6.1-6.4

When tested it comes back as 5.8.

I now add dolomite lime to raise the ph to 6.2ish and those problems vanished.

On the transplanting side of things a light mix that you can feed at will is best for your growing style.

You can transplant mid flower it’s just harder with all that plant matter swaying about.

Transplanting has benefits up until the last 2-3 weeks in flower when it’s pointless to transplant after that.

Don’t know where the myth came that flowering plants don’t root. You put a 6 week old flowering plant in a new pot by the end there will be roots flowing throughout that new media!
This is why I've switched to exclusively pormix hp. I love soil, but I've had nothing but problems with inconsistent pH the last several times I've used it. Particularly with FF.
 
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