Water cooled COB Build/pic heavy

Godfather420

Well-Known Member
That be the one, unless I'm seeing it wrong it's the water in or out heatsink?
Water in,water out...Those little fittings are good for 100psi... good for up too 150psi. I pressure tested my heatsink at 100psi overnight. Most this system might see is 10-15psi from elevation changes....
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
None taken. I'm trying to build a platform of modular design.... I'm fucking tired of Bleeding edge technology... But I love technology... How to win? Build things that don't become useless ..

Whats in store for LED, only the manufacturers know.... But what ever way they wanna serve me LED, rest assured my light will be able to have that new chip or custom quantum board strapped to it. :bigjoint:

Yes, too answer your question simply:eyesmoke:
Hmmmmmmm....

Modular design, you say?

Been there, done that- and I highly recommend you and others do the same!
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Water in,water out...Those little fittings are good for 100psi... good for up too 150psi. I pressure tested my heatsink at 100psi overnight. Most this system might see is 10-15psi from elevation changes....
Not worried about that. Corrosion will kill those fittings and the ones I linked are a dripless, no spill, so you can connect, disconnect without having to drain. Also, imo, you will need a means of balancing flow between the units. Even if they are exactly the same slight differences in the install height, tubing lengths will cause an imbalance of flow. Plus you might have different chips, driver whatever but would still be able to have a single cooling circuit at whatever temp you desire. So for you that's probably a temp senor on inlet and outlet, a handful of automated valves and a bit of keyboard time programing the arduino...
 

Godfather420

Well-Known Member
Not worried about that. Corrosion will kill those fittings and the ones I linked are a dripless, no spill, so you can connect, disconnect without having to drain. Also, imo, you will need a means of balancing flow between the units. Even if they are exactly the same slight differences in the install height, tubing lengths will cause an imbalance of flow. Plus you might have different chips, driver whatever but would still be able to have a single cooling circuit at whatever temp you desire. So for you that's probably a temp senor on inlet and outlet, a handful of automated valves and a bit of keyboard time programing the arduino...
I've learned that balancing flow to different water-cooled apparatuses is all that that tricky. choke down the return side, manually. I always use a lot of valves in my systems... I am interested in the dripless quick connect, however, I want a 90 deg. elbow( quick connect X 3/8" MIP. The biggest imbalances in the system will be and usually always are "air. Standard vent techniques (High point venting and Zero air traps) and proper system design ( calculating flow in pipe by line size proper pump calcs, head pressure, fluid viscosity coefficient yada yada)
Yes, My friend is working on the wireless valves for me. Temp sensors on the supply mains and return mains. Bypass valves to allow the system to heat up first bypass all heat load dumps. No programming for me... My friend and I are in this together. Partners if you will.He's the tech wizard, I'm the builder, tinkerer and mouthpiece.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
You got brute force down with a dash elegance.
And what's this corrosion you speak of? Aluminum and pvc, and glycol water solution..... Am I missing something?
Aluminium will corrode, they look like brass to me and the little balls that lock the fitting are probably steel. I don't know exactly what you have there so please don't take offense. I'd go for a high temp plastic just my .02.

Keep in mind I'm not water cooling :peace:
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I've learned that balancing flow to different water-cooled apparatuses is all that that tricky. choke down the return side, manually. I always use a lot of valves in my systems... I am interested in the dripless quick connect, however, I want a 90 deg. elbow( quick connect X 3/8" MIP. The biggest imbalances in the system will be and usually always are "air. Standard vent techniques (High point venting and Zero air traps) and proper system design ( calculating flow in pipe by line size proper pump calcs, head pressure, fluid viscosity coefficient yada yada)
Yes, My friend is working on the wireless valves for me. Temp sensors on the supply mains and return mains. Bypass valves to allow the system to heat up first bypass all heat load dumps. No programming for me... My friend and I are in this together. Partners if you will.He's the tech wizard, I'm the builder, tinkerer and mouthpiece.
I do collaborations like that all the time. It allows everyone to bring their strengths to the project. I'm often surprised by how much better the end result is than what I first imagined!
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
What do you know about leaf surface temp, these cobs, and the amount of infrared heat they actually put off?
The COB chips will shed all the heat they generate unless it's actively carried off. That's a simple function of watts in; doesn't even matter how much of it is light since it all converts back to heat anyway.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
You got brute force down with a dash elegance.

Aluminium will corrode, they look like brass to me and the little balls that lock the fitting are probably steel. I don't know exactly what you have there so please don't take offense. I'd go for a high temp plastic just my .02.

Keep in mind I'm not water cooling :peace:
Needs heat and lots of surface area to corrode. His system will have neither. I haven't had any problems with corrosion, only with connections; don't overtighten hose clamps, use plenty of glue and give it time to fully cure.

Keep in mind I DO build and use water cooled systems, lol!

...and for God's sake, keep Ford Prefect''s advice in mind and always bring a towel!
 
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