Mega Crop Scrog grow

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
I do a rinse with Flora clean after every two rez changes "2 weeks" mind you this is not a flush that others talk about or do on here. If things start to spread and go south quick I will do a rinse early and see how it goes. @MichiganMedGrower I agree and was worried also as why the rinse cycle. Ill give it a day or two and adjust.
You are running Royal Gold but it is not RG Tupur. I know that Tupur usually needs a bit of extra cal mag or mag sulfate. I forget which one.

You may want to email Royal Gold as they are very helpful. I think Mega Crop is pretty complete across the board so it may be something else.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
I do a rinse with Flora clean after every two rez changes "2 weeks" mind you this is not a flush that others talk about or do on here. If things start to spread and go south quick I will do a rinse early and see how it goes. @MichiganMedGrower I agree and was worried also as why the rinse cycle. Ill give it a day or two and adjust.

Under the loupe it does look like heat stress
Did you scope the bottom of the leaf? I doubt it is russet mites but people usually think it is a nute defec when they get russets.

You might also want to ask and post the pic on the main QB forum thread.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
The last pic has a pretty heavy and big cola that is poking pretty high above that scrog net. Seems like Mega Crop helped strengthen those stems. Impressive.

I know MC has silica but did you add any extra?
Actually the scrog net is a good foot below that. The while horizontal tubes are braces to keep the sides of the tent from sucking in with high CFMs. I did use a black trellis net above the scrog for extra support.

No Silica just tap water and MC.

I would have ran this test anyway without posting only because I wanted to see just what MC could and couldn't do unbiased. I didn't want to sacrifice good genetics on something I wouldn't like or wouldn't produce at least the same as what I get with Maxi and adds.

Was hoping for two of the same kind of Pheno's and got one with legs and one squat lol.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I would like to say here I wish everyone would stop combining calcium and magnesium as the same issue.

my well water has gone softer with the dry summer and I have calcium issues in my garden. But not magnesium and cal mag products make the problem worse.

The solution is calcinated or agricultural lime. Not dolomite which has way too much mag and also makes my problem worse.

Or for hydro I would want a chelated calcium product.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Potassium Silicate can be used as PH up, Magcal isn't really a PH down though.

About the leaves, it could be Cal/Mag issue. Would like to hear further updates in the next few days about this to find out more!
Considering hes running under led's it wouldnt suprise me a bit to need a ml or so of Cal/Mg added to every gal of mixed nutrient he uses likely no matter what brand of nute used. I've experienced the same under my COB LED with GH synthetics. This was the same cuts from momma, same table, feed etc, both grown under HPS and COB LED and the LED required a supplement of Mg as the HPS never has.
I would like to say here I wish everyone would stop combining calcium and magnesium as the same issue.

my well water has gone softer with the dry summer and I have calcium issues in my garden. But not magnesium and cal mag products make the problem worse.

The solution is calcinated or agricultural lime. Not dolomite which has way too much mag and also makes my problem worse.

Or for hydro I would want a chelated calcium product.
What @MichiganMedGrower makes total sense, its just often found as a paired supplement all in one bottle. I think thats where the cal & mag references come from that people think are synonymous with each other. I use the CALi-Magic all in one and just assume add both anyways since I've never experienced a toxicity of either to my knowledge, but Im also on municipal tap.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
I think our friend the Op is using Royal Gold Basement Mix.
http://royalgoldcoco.com/soils/royal-gold/basement-mix-pid-2

I have used their excellent Royal Gold Tupur and they tell you up front to add extra Cal Mag.
As a coco fiber based soilless medium, it requires high levels of calcium and magnesium to unlock its true potential.

http://royalgoldcoco.com/soils/royal-gold/tupur-pid-3

I am not sure if the two mixes are really similar but they are maybe close. Royal Gold is very responsive and helpful like the folks at Green Leaf so they might be able to help.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Considering hes running under led's it wouldnt suprise me a bit to need a ml or so of Cal/Mg added to every gal of mixed nutrient he uses likely no matter what brand of nute used. I've experienced the same under my COB LED with GH synthetics. This was the same cuts from momma, same table, feed etc, both grown under HPS and COB LED and the LED required a supplement of Mg as the HPS never has.


What @MichiganMedGrower makes total sense, its just often found as a paired supplement all in one bottle. I think thats where the cal & mag references come from that people think are synonymous with each other. I use the CALi-Magic all in one and just assume add both anyways since I've never experienced a toxicity of either to my knowledge, but Im also on municipal tap.
Absolutely!


The problem with cal mag is it is formulated to be used with ro water so it is not always balanced with the right ratios when added to soft tap water.

And some have chelated iron and other micronutrients which can all antagonize other nutrients and the larger ions can block the roots.

Also force feeding cal mag can mitigate deficiencies without correcting the original problem. Then as time goes on.....
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Wow I wish my buds were as big as yours. I have no hope so of it. Super clean.

He is awesome at growing no doubt but with practice we can all get there. My average per plant yield was around 2 oz for the first 18 months of growing when I started. Then it started going up and the quality too with all the same equipment, soil, nutes and pots.

I have been able to do 4-7 oz per seed grown plant regardless of breeder or strain ever since.

It's just under 1 gram per watt under hps if you measure that way. Would be more if I mono crop cuttings I know can yield.

I attribute the doubling of yield to learning how to fertilize better and proper transplanting and garden practices. Especially watering pots of soil mix only when very dry. 3/4 the way down the pot dry. When I started waiting an extra day to water the plants started getting better.

The breeder of my favorite seeds told me this. And that veg. Even early veg determines final results much more than commonly said.

So I try to have the smoothest fastest veg cycle I can. I even lst plants in the first weeks of flower now instead of mess with them in veg. Unless they get too tall in the time they have.

Sorry stoned and babbling. :-)
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Hey guys thanks for chiming in, all good info and discussion. I've been doing it indoor since late 80s and have seen my share of issues. This was a throw together grow for testing out some new inputs, soilless mix and a new nutrient.

My tap water is 40-60 PPM and always have needed CalMag. Add a new soilless mix with Quatum light and environment on lock down I'm impressed Mega Crop has stood on its own.

This grow isn't a reflection of what I normally produce. I do production runs with standard strains pulling up to 2.5g per watt. Sometimes I want to mix it up and run some boutique strain not worrying about max yield.

The leaf affected under the scope looks burnt, under the lead looks just fine. It was only one leaf affected. I raised my lights and added 1/2 mil per gallon of MagCal.

Most of this will be made into vape oil. I have years worth of stash stored away so I'm not stressing it.

Stay Lyfted !
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
He is awesome at growing no doubt but with practice we can all get there. My average per plant yield was around 2 oz for the first 18 months of growing when I started. Then it started going up and the quality too with all the same equipment, soil, nutes and pots.

I have been able to do 4-7 oz per seed grown plant regardless of breeder or strain ever since.

It's just under 1 gram per watt under hps if you measure that way. Would be more if I mono crop cuttings I know can yield.

I attribute the doubling of yield to learning how to fertilize better and proper transplanting and garden practices. Especially watering pots of soil mix only when very dry. 3/4 the way down the pot dry. When I started waiting an extra day to water the plants started getting better.

The breeder of my favorite seeds told me this. And that veg. Even early veg determines final results much more than commonly said.

So I try to have the smoothest fastest veg cycle I can. I even lst plants in the first weeks of flower now instead of mess with them in veg. Unless they get too tall in the time they have.

Sorry stoned and babbling. :-)
My old school teaching is plants will drink and uptake the first 15min at lights on. I water only once are lights on and right now it's every day. Mind you my system is just a self watering DTW no diffrent than hand watering. What is diffrent is the consistency of the watering that makes a big difference.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
My old school teaching is plants will drink and uptake the first 15min at lights on. I water only once are lights on and right now it's every day. Mind you my system is just a self watering DTW no diffrent than hand watering. What is diffrent is the consistency of the watering that makes a big difference.

Agreed about consistency (provided not overwatering)

I gauge transplants by watering cycle. They move to larger pots when they get down to 2 days. This makes most plants drink every three days saturated and watered to runoff at maturity.

I also vary added perlite a bit at different seasons to help with consistent drainage.

I am looking into auto watering for my next step here. Then I will have to figure out drip schedules. And the learning curve starts all over again. Lol.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Hey guys thanks for chiming in, all good info and discussion. I've been doing it indoor since late 80s and have seen my share of issues. This was a throw together grow for testing out some new inputs, soilless mix and a new nutrient.

My tap water is 40-60 PPM and always have needed CalMag. Add a new soilless mix with Quatum light and environment on lock down I'm impressed Mega Crop has stood on its own.

This grow isn't a reflection of what I normally produce. I do production runs with standard strains pulling up to 2.5g per watt. Sometimes I want to mix it up and run some boutique strain not worrying about max yield.

The leaf affected under the scope looks burnt, under the lead looks just fine. It was only one leaf affected. I raised my lights and added 1/2 mil per gallon of MagCal.

Most of this will be made into vape oil. I have years worth of stash stored away so I'm not stressing it.

Stay Lyfted !
Do you think burnt from heat from the QB's or bleached from too much light?

Do you have a fan lightly blowing along the tops or between the plant and light? Just curious.
 
Top