riddleme
Well-Known Member
Those NPK's are ok and if your going to feed at every watering you should start at 1/4 strength
Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
- Start date
Crystal Toy
Active Member
thanks for the quick reply. do you think i should or should i stick with the every third watering. also just put in 12/12 and mixing both nutes together to give balance. ps thx UB for the "less is more" helped me alot
riddleme
Well-Known Member
Read my calling all noob growers thread, (sig link) good explanation of how to feed there
Crystal Toy
Active Member
just wanted to share this link:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0420085231701.html?112
I have learned (and am doing) that you can get pot to drain completely by hanging a wick from the bottom soil that goes out trough a drain hole. If you have already planted and want to add a wick just stuff it in with a screwdriver. As I currently understand it, this gets rid of the perched water table which can be a problem especially in pots that are over sized for the current size of the plant.
Anyone do this?
here is an interesting idea:
"So - You can grow well in a soil that wants to retain lots of water you just don't let it - you wick it. Later in the year, when roots have colonized the entire pot and transpiration is placing extreme demand on roots to provide water - remove the wick. It's almost like having the advantage of growing in a different soil without transplanting."
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0420085231701.html?112
I have learned (and am doing) that you can get pot to drain completely by hanging a wick from the bottom soil that goes out trough a drain hole. If you have already planted and want to add a wick just stuff it in with a screwdriver. As I currently understand it, this gets rid of the perched water table which can be a problem especially in pots that are over sized for the current size of the plant.
Anyone do this?
here is an interesting idea:
"So - You can grow well in a soil that wants to retain lots of water you just don't let it - you wick it. Later in the year, when roots have colonized the entire pot and transpiration is placing extreme demand on roots to provide water - remove the wick. It's almost like having the advantage of growing in a different soil without transplanting."
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
There are no absolutes, you must read your plants. Case in point - about a week ago I got some seeds to pop and about 1 or 2 days later started giving them full sun all day. That's fine if you move them ASAP as soon as they are still turned down coming up drawing the seedcap off. Well, the single leaves were turning a serious yellow. 3 days ago I made up a drench of 1 tsp/gallon of a 30-10-10 plus about 1/4 tsp. of iron sulfate. The single juvenile leaves have now returned to a healthy green color and the babes look fine.
IOW, you do what you have to do upon assessing the condition of your plants. In my case, they needing greening up as the chlorophyll was being bleached out.
UB
Crystal Toy
Active Member
ty UB will try to keep my eyes open
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
A couple questions for you uncle ben, first i have not read this whole thread but i would like to know where YOU like to keep your ph for soil grows or if you let ma nature take care of it. #2 i am using ro water and want your thoughts on getting some iron from my well water(it is high in iron. maybe just use straight well water 1 time a week for cal- mag- iron. this would be from a tap that does not go through my water softener. i grow in soil and hydro, i set my ph at 6.2 for hydro ( starts at 7.2) and soil has been 6.0 ( from 7.2). i know you always say most pot specific nutes lack the proper N value so i have been trying to be more balanced and my plants seem to be locking out a little starting on the bottoms. the plants in hydro really like the new balance but the soil plants are just not as green and lush. I am indoors if that helps.
Hotwired
Well-Known Member
I've been at this a while but I still grabbed a tip or 2 from this thread.
Thx UB
The only thing I would like to ask has to do with the root cutting at transplant.
I only transplant once from veg to flower. Would it still be a good idea to cut into the roots when transplanting from the veg room into the flower room? I run a perpetual and everything is timed just right.
Thx UB
The only thing I would like to ask has to do with the root cutting at transplant.
I only transplant once from veg to flower. Would it still be a good idea to cut into the roots when transplanting from the veg room into the flower room? I run a perpetual and everything is timed just right.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I don't give it much thought. Cannabis is very pH tolerant regarding element uptake.
Simple, if your plants are not deep green, then they need N and perhaps other micros, particularly iron. Regarding your soil's analysis, it's all a guessing game unless you have had your soil tested. Pot specific nutes tend to go heavy on the K which doesn't support foliage.
Good luck,
UB
lvnv
Member
Hello everyone. I have read many threads/posts from Uncle Ben and Riddleme and couldn't find anything relating to my setup.
I have a 9'x3'x12" raised bed which I ran drip irrigation to; two runs of 1/4" drip line with 6" spacers down the 9' length of the bed. I am currently growing 4 feminized seeds that will occupy the raised bed, along with some culinary herbs, peppers, and artichokes (which may go by the wayside if my Jock Horror takes off
)
My questions:
1) I am in Las Vegas where the temperature can reach 110 F in the summer, very low humidity. My raised bed faces east so it will avoid the harshest sun. What would an optimal watering schedule be? My drip system is run off of a hose end Orbit timer that is quite flexible for scheduling. I realize I will have to experiment to see how my girls react, but I would just like a ballpark estimate. I never see anything regarding drip irrigation on a timer. Here is a description of my soil.
2) How would I go about feeding the girls? I have ordered Jack's 30-10-10 and 10-30-20. I believe I could put any nutes in my hose-end filter and then it would run through the drip line. Is this is a good solution or am I better off filling a watering can with the nutes and feeding by hand?
3) How often/much should I feed? 1/4 strength every watering? I know, when they look like they need it, right UB?
I have no problem with these things growing 10 feet tall as it is a legal grow. Not that I'm expecting to get 'em there but who knows.
Thanks for any help for a first time grower. I'm learning so much!
I have a 9'x3'x12" raised bed which I ran drip irrigation to; two runs of 1/4" drip line with 6" spacers down the 9' length of the bed. I am currently growing 4 feminized seeds that will occupy the raised bed, along with some culinary herbs, peppers, and artichokes (which may go by the wayside if my Jock Horror takes off
)My questions:
1) I am in Las Vegas where the temperature can reach 110 F in the summer, very low humidity. My raised bed faces east so it will avoid the harshest sun. What would an optimal watering schedule be? My drip system is run off of a hose end Orbit timer that is quite flexible for scheduling. I realize I will have to experiment to see how my girls react, but I would just like a ballpark estimate. I never see anything regarding drip irrigation on a timer. Here is a description of my soil.
2) How would I go about feeding the girls? I have ordered Jack's 30-10-10 and 10-30-20. I believe I could put any nutes in my hose-end filter and then it would run through the drip line. Is this is a good solution or am I better off filling a watering can with the nutes and feeding by hand?
3) How often/much should I feed? 1/4 strength every watering? I know, when they look like they need it, right UB?
I have no problem with these things growing 10 feet tall as it is a legal grow. Not that I'm expecting to get 'em there but who knows.
Thanks for any help for a first time grower. I'm learning so much!
riddleme
Well-Known Member
The only grow journal I ever followed was Mammoths that used a timed drip feed system, he was a great grower that has retired from the forum, I learned a lot from reading his journal, can't remember if he explained his feeding system or not but I'm sure you can get a few pointers from this thread (I did)Hello everyone. I have read many threads/posts from Uncle Ben and Riddleme and couldn't find anything relating to my setup.
I have a 9'x3'x12" raised bed which I ran drip irrigation to; two runs of 1/4" drip line with 6" spacers down the 9' length of the bed. I am currently growing 4 feminized seeds that will occupy the raised bed, along with some culinary herbs, peppers, and artichokes (which may go by the wayside if my Jock Horror takes off
My questions:
1) I am in Las Vegas where the temperature can reach 110 F in the summer, very low humidity. My raised bed faces east so it will avoid the harshest sun. What would an optimal watering schedule be? My drip system is run off of a hose end Orbit timer that is quite flexible for scheduling. I realize I will have to experiment to see how my girls react, but I would just like a ballpark estimate. I never see anything regarding drip irrigation on a timer. Here is a description of my soil.
2) How would I go about feeding the girls? I have ordered Jack's 30-10-10 and 10-30-20. I believe I could put any nutes in my hose-end filter and then it would run through the drip line. Is this is a good solution or am I better off filling a watering can with the nutes and feeding by hand?
3) How often/much should I feed? 1/4 strength every watering? I know, when they look like they need it, right UB?
I have no problem with these things growing 10 feet tall as it is a legal grow. Not that I'm expecting to get 'em there but who knows.
Thanks for any help for a first time grower. I'm learning so much!
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/181208-my-stealth-cabinet-grow-journals.html
Hope that helps
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I assume you mean scoring the rootball vertically? You do that to get rid of any spin-out, to induce more branching. Now, once the plant is in a flowering mode root production is put on the back burner.I've been at this a while but I still grabbed a tip or 2 from this thread.
Thx UB
The only thing I would like to ask has to do with the root cutting at transplant.
I only transplant once from veg to flower. Would it still be a good idea to cut into the roots when transplanting from the veg room into the flower room? I run a perpetual and everything is timed just right.
Thanks voodoofx, but I aint got time for writing a book plus there are alot of good ones out there.
Hotwired
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply UB.
So the only good time for scoring the roots would be when you transplant and return to veg. I usually start my clones in 1 gallon pots and transplant to 4 gallon after 4 weeks of veg. There is usually a nice spin-out at the bottom of the pot. I just loosen them up and drop them in the new pail.
So my next question would be: Would it be worth it to start my clones in smaller pots, say half gallon pots, and transplant to the gallon in order to promote better roots? Or am I already doing the best I can by starting my clones in the bigger pot then transplant at flower?
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
The only time I "score the roots" is at transplanting based on what I'm trying to achieve. Regarding pot size, if it's working for you then leave well enough alone.
Good luck,
UB