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If its just ph/water its hard to understand. When PH drops its usually because the plant is up-taking more water then nutes and leaving the acidic nutes causing a lower PH. but a ph drop in pure water? idk man sounds odd

I had a light rot starting once and thinned them out then sat them in a VERY light solution of bleach water. I know ppl gonna freak out but I did. I sat it in there for about 2 mins, then for the next hr I flushed the entire system with a light bleach water, then regular water, scrubbed all the...

Digital ballasts run ALOT cooler on 220, there is no arguments there.....

I see the bumps and odd texture. It does look very abnormal. I would guess that it is a genetic trait or a genetic reaction. Possible immobile elements in excess and your leaves over hydrating and thinning due to dry atmosphere. Dial back every thing, flush the media with ph water then give...

Great thread guys, great pics and it was very enjoyable to return and stumble on to this post. Now Budtoker I just have one suggestion that may save you alot of money and your girls will be very happy with the change. I consider enzymes important for coco, soil and environments containing...

Thats ambient co2 in the 350 range. I mean increasing co2 to 1000-1200 could increase yields up to 30%. Only steroids for plants I know of. You wont find that in any type of additive or booster.

I have found using molasses can tighten and harden the buds in the final weeks. Remember there are micro-nutes and calcium supplements in it as well. The plant can also absorb minor amounts of basic sugars allowing the plant easy energy. It in no way is steroids (Co2 is the steroids) This is...

I use garbage bags tightly wound and the air compressed out of them. It works 100% and is light proof. Keep them in the dark if you are going to use a glass jar.

I used to work in 100% coco. After I switched to 100% hydro I can tell you it was the BEST decision I ever made and will never go back. no more dirty hands, transplanting, dust every where. TERRIBLE! Consider a simple system like the CAP Monster Flood system. Work with either 100% synthetic...

She looks ready. Once the hairs are 80% brown shes ready to come to down. of course you could push it a few extra days if you like.

I am considering buying from herbies, wish i knew the answer. Could you let me know what your experience was? What strain(s) did you buy?

If you run a 100% synthetic rez you can go a little longer between changes. Perhaps use a little H2O2 to keep it sterile. If you use any organic based nutes (usually uses kelp, B1, humex's etc..) You would need to change every 7 days.

I think the Apollo looks like the way to go there. Bridgelux specializes in blues and Epistar is a solid led. Price looks good too.

I mean the molasses will add micro nutrients as well. Don't buy any micro off the shelf.

If the water runs off easily then great, we know the roots are getting air. I could not advise you on how to feed your organic soil since it may have everything it needs in there. See the problem with organics is you will benefit more from beneficial microbes in the soil and you will NEED them...

Alot of Kush look like that at the end, the plant is dying and its a normal look for the final days. I have had some plants finish a few days early even, she will tell you by the % of brown hairs. 80% or more brown and shes ready.She looks ready especially if you are seeing clowdy trichs. I love...

Well with the limited information I will try to be helpful. First I belive you may have multiple things happening here in terms of deficiency and over/under watering. She is certianly unhappy so lets try a few things. First lets take some ph adjusted RO water and flush her. Catch the run off in...

powdery mildew is coming from spores entering your grow room and a high humidity giving it the environment it needs, it also spreads quickly. Start by reducing your humidity and getting rid of infected leaves. Have fans around the room keeping the air constantly agitated makign it harder for it...

I don't use many boosters but what I do use is the Canna PK in the 2nd week of flowering once I see the first "hairs" and signs of budding. I blast them with the PK for 1 week and I have a TON of budding sites up and down the plant on every branch. I think this is the best way to get them ready...

Sounds potentially very messy. Just curious, why do you believe you cant veg in hydro? The last thing you need is foreign debris in various stages of decomp anywhere in your system. Hydro is about total control in a sterile environment.