100% climate control, what else do I need?

I was going to invest in a space heater to keep outside the tent, install an AC unit in the room. Get a humidifier and dehumidifier and a controller and a good intake system that can have a set threshold and adjust fan speeds. I’m pretty sure I don’t actually know what I’m doing though.

I wanted an automated climate, where I can make the humidity and temps anything I want and have it be consistent. I don’t know what I’m missing or don’t need that would help me do this.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I like variacs for adjusting fan speeds, they don't mess up the sine wave so they won't make the motor groan.

For environmental controllers I like the Autopilot and Titan versions. They have a cheaper model with a repeat cycle timer instead of a CO2 sensor / PPM reading, so if you don't intend to add CO2 to the equation that will save a bunch of dough.
 
I like variacs for adjusting fan speeds, they don't mess up the sine wave so they won't make the motor groan.

For environmental controllers I like the Autopilot and Titan versions. They have a cheaper model with a repeat cycle timer instead of a CO2 sensor / PPM reading, so if you don't intend to add CO2 to the equation that will save a bunch of dough.
yeah, no c02. Just want to focus on ambient temps and humid in the room and in the tent. If I can on a whim change things within a 5% margin on the temp and humidity spectrum I’d be completely happy.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
If I can on a whim change things within a 5% margin on the temp and humidity spectrum I’d be completely happy.
Just remember that when your differential / dead band is set tight, your devices may kick on and off excessively. This can be really hard on AC's and dehumidifiers, so make sure those aren't short cycled.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Also, if you intend to plug the dehumidifier and AC unit into the controller, the AC and dehumidifier need to auto restart after a power outage.

To run both the AC and dehumidifier on the same controller you may need an auxiliary contactor to feed another circuit for the AC or dehu.
 
Also, if you intend to plug the dehumidifier and AC unit into the controller, the AC and dehumidifier need to auto restart after a power outage.

To run both the AC and dehumidifier on the same controller you may need an auxiliary contactor to feed another circuit for the AC or dehu.
i really like your avatar
 

Mikenike

Well-Known Member
@RamenToppings I’ve got a spare titan saturn 6 if you’re interested. Controls temp/humidity and already has a Co2 sensor fuzzy logic for if you ever decide to opt for it and day/night settings
You can set your temp/humidity to whatever you want and how much you want it to vary by before things turn on/off. Just need your cooling/dehu/humidity devices. Autopilot also has a decent controller and trolmaster has a great one that can be controlled via smartphone but is a lot pricier
 
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a2lute

Well-Known Member
I'll second the autopilot for CO2. I use inkbirds stuff for temp & humidity. Super simple plug & play stuff. Decent adjustability if you want it. Doesn't do separate Day/Night temps though.
 

Dryxi

Well-Known Member
Just remember that when your differential / dead band is set tight, your devices may kick on and off excessively. This can be really hard on AC's and dehumidifiers, so make sure those aren't short cycled.
What would you say is typically too tight to set it a minisplit or dehumidifier? Or is it too specific to model and features?
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
What would you say is typically too tight to set it a minisplit or dehumidifier? Or is it too specific to model and features?
Specific to environment mostly. Say the AC kicks off when the temp gets down to 77F, and it kicks back on at 80F. That could mean the AC is only off for a few minutes and has to kick right back on. Thats very hard on the compressor. So a 3 degree differential would be too tight for most situations. Does that make sense?
 
Just remember that when your differential / dead band is set tight, your devices may kick on and off excessively. This can be really hard on AC's and dehumidifiers, so make sure those aren't short cycled.
that does make a lot of sense, so a 10% differential then, what would most people with a controller and threshold consider reasonable?
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I use an autopilot environmental controller, it allows you to adjust the dead bands to your liking. An example would be 7 degrees Fahrenheit, thats a commonly used dead band but some like to run it tighter to optimize conditions, especially when running by VPD where you are playing with fire in the form of water vapor. You just have to figure out what works best for your room and equipment. I use the acurite wireless temp and humidity monitors and get nice charts that let you view your swings in action. Very handy.

If you are running a minisplit then you are left with it's own thermostat. A smart mini will only run as hard as it has to, thus it doesn't cycle on and off, it just runs at say 70% if thats all thats required. So you have to figure out what to set it at in order to maintain the room where you like. They make wifi controllers like Pebble that will let you schedule your AC to run when your lights are on, or day nite temps...

Air circulation is critical, you want to even out the climate in the room so as to prevent micro climates and false readings.

Another thing that makes things difficult is how devices use the dead band setting. For example, a 7 degree setting on one device would allow both + and - 3.5 degrees. Another device may say that for cooling, a 3 degree dead band means if it hits the set point temperature it pulls the room down 3 degrees before shutting off.
 

worldspawn

Well-Known Member
I have an insulated and "sealed" (mostly sealed) room and my only temperature concern is heat. Lights are making heat, dehus are making heat, basically anything with an on switch is making heat. I have my AC set to 18 degress celcius and I just leave it there. With the lights off its 19 in the lung room and 18 in the flower room. Lights on 22.5 in the lung room, 26-27 in the flower room. I used to use a Sensibo to create temperature deadband where I would cool to 19 degrees then let it heat to 22.5 and cool again but this was just more moving parts and probably putting more stress on the AC than just running it continuously. I still have the sensibo around, mostly so I can monitor temps/humidity from the cloud.

So in summary unless you are in a very cold (like snow cold) place you most likely wont need a heater or a humidifier.
 

Hotload24

New Member
Great Post just built 10x8 room and I am struggling to keep my environment consistent. Suppose to get to freezing temps tired of hearing electric heater
 

a2lute

Well-Known Member
I had some luck stabilizing my room by adding thermal mass, I moved my 60 gallon water tank into the room.
 
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