100% Perlite Hempy question.

Earlyriser76

Earlyriser76

Well-Known Member
jonnynobody said:
switching back to 100% chunky perlite. I don't like all of the weird problems coco has with cation exchange as it relates to calcium, magnesium, and potassium. It's just an unnecessary variable that I don't want to deal with in my grow room. Perlite is clean, drains fast, cheap, and highly effective.

With all the money you have invested in your garden why would you not have a PH and TDS meter? Consider it a lesson learned. I keep 2 ph meters and 2 tds meters at all times in the grow room. 1 to backup the other in the event of a failure. Your grow is high value. Treat it that way.
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You're right. Managing PH and PPM is where I failed with perlite and would fail with any media if I didn't manage it. I'm better at managing it now. I still have 6 in perlite in the flower tent. They are doing pretty well now that I got a handle on the PPM and PH runoff from the hempy buckets.

I have a 70/30 coco run going now in fabric pots. It's early veg but no issues so far. I've never grown in coco or fabric but still have plenty of Perlite should I want to go back.

The coco grow is in 8 gallon milk crates lined with landscape fabric with 4 plants per crate for a SOG. It's a different way to grow which might be better for me.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
Earlyriser76 said:
You're right. Managing PH and PPM is where I failed with perlite and would fail with any media if I didn't manage it. I'm better at managing it now. I still have 6 in perlite in the flower tent. They are doing pretty well now that I got a handle on the PPM and PH runoff from the hempy buckets.

I have a 70/30 coco run going now in fabric pots. It's early veg but no issues so far. I've never grown in coco or fabric but still have plenty of Perlite should I want to go back.

The coco grow is in 8 gallon milk crates lined with landscape fabric with 4 plants per crate for a SOG. It's a different way to grow which might be better for me.
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There are a lot of folks that do great with coco. If you get a chance throw up some pics. Would love to see the garden. My current grow: https://www.rollitup.org/t/just-jackin-it-with-jr-peters-hempy-style.987488/#post-14886673
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
OJAE said:
Another thing you can do is make multiple drain holes all at 2 inches.
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Home Depot paint strainers work well also. I think there are something like 3 or 4 in a package for $4.00-$6.00/package. I just use #4 chunky perlite and don't worry about anything going through the hole. The perlite chunks are too large to pass through.
 
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DaFreak

Well-Known Member
I used to stick small plastic spigots in my buckets and panty hose wrapped on the inside with elastics. Drain quick and never blocked. Diameter smaller than a dime.

By the way, I didn't read the whole thread, but I actually ran 100% perlite and recycled it for up to 8 or so cycles and never had a problem, only more watering than without but you can't recycle vermiculite. Perlite you just flush, boiler and drain...good to go. Strawberry producers recycle their perlite as well which I discovered while researching it before I tried.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
DaFreak said:
I used to stick small plastic spigots in my buckets and panty hose wrapped on the inside with elastics. Drain quick and never blocked. Diameter smaller than a dime.

By the way, I didn't read the whole thread, but I actually ran 100% perlite and recycled it for up to 8 or so cycles and never had a problem, only more watering than without but you can't recycle vermiculite. Perlite you just flush, boiler and drain...good to go. Strawberry producers recycle their perlite as well which I discovered while researching it before I tried.
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Chunky perlite is $40 for the big bag. I definitely am interested in recycling it for another grow. Thanks for the tip man.
 
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DaFreak

Well-Known Member
I used a piece of wired mesh I found at a hardware store, no idea what it was really meant for, but I pushed it into a five gallon bucket to make a bowl shape with the corners tucked around the bucket. Shake the perlite through it to remove the roots, better to do when they are still a little wet so time it so there should be no water in the bottom. Use 2 buckets and keep doing it to you are happy with the results, boil in giant pot for 10 minutes and you are good to go. Granted it took me an hour to process 4 buckets worth. Only did it because I lived in a country where growing could land you 8 years and I didn't want my neighbors to see me dumping trash bags of perlite every month.
 
OJAE

OJAE

Well-Known Member
I'm building up a little herb/legal flower garden outside so I mix my old perlite into the compost I've been buying. Bit like The Great Escape except i'm not shaking the perlite down my pant leg :lol:


I'm thinking of doing a test of resuing my perlite, going to use some cannazym and a air pump with 2 airstones, should break the tiny roots I can't pick out down.
 
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1212ham

Well-Known Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
i've started using the drops again...i was buying cheap meters and adjusting them, but they've started to drift so badly i can't adjust them back into range....gonna get one of the 40-50 dollar units eventually, but i'm cheap...and know just enough about electronics to know that there's about 75 cents worth of shit inside that plastic case...
the drops never drift out of range...learn how to use them and you'll always have a reliable benchmark...yellow with just a hint of orange is perfect for coco....
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The drops don't have the precision of a good meter, but they are dam reliable and won't get you into trouble. As Roger mentioned, hold the white part of the color chart behind the test tube, it really helps. And do it in good light.

It takes some knowledge to properly use and care for PH probes, I bet a lot of people aren't as close on PH as they think. After wasting $50 on a Hana checker, a Milwaukee 600 and a bottle of calibration fluid, I spent several hours researching, then spent $115 on a Milwaukee MW102. It has .01 resolution and digital calibration so it doesn't drift. The factory calibration is still spot on after a 1.5 years of light use, I love it.
If anyone wants my old meters, they're in a landfill somewhere!

Same story on TDS meters, I had two cheap meters and then I bought calibration fluid..... After that, I bought a good meter, a used Hana TDS/EC.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
then spent $115 on a Milwaukee MW102. It has .01 resolution and digital calibration so it doesn't drift. The factory calibration is still spot on after a 1.5 years of light use, I love it
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yep, i've had a MW101 for probably 6 years now. calibrate twice: once before i start a grow and then again when i flip to 12/12. it's never been off by more than 0.1 if that.
 
Bubblin

Bubblin

Well-Known Member
DaFreak said:
Shake the perlite through it to remove the roots, better to do when they are still a little wet so time it so there should be no water in the bottom.
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Perlite usually floats, toss the root ball into a tub of water n scoop up the perlite that floats.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
The drops don't have the precision of a good meter, but they are dam reliable and won't get you into trouble. As Roger mentioned, hold the white part of the color chart behind the test tube, it really helps. And do it in good light.

It takes some knowledge to properly use and care for PH probes, I bet a lot of people aren't as close on PH as they think. After wasting $50 on a Hana checker, a Milwaukee 600 and a bottle of calibration fluid, I spent several hours researching, then spent $115 on a Milwaukee MW102. It has .01 resolution and digital calibration so it doesn't drift. The factory calibration is still spot on after a 1.5 years of light use, I love it.
If anyone wants my old meters, they're in a landfill somewhere!

Same story on TDS meters, I had two cheap meters and then I bought calibration fluid..... After that, I bought a good meter, a used Hana TDS/EC.
Click to expand...
I'll second that recommendation. I tried a $120 Hanna and wasn't impressed with the accuracy. I returned it for a refund. I bought a Milwaukee MW102 and a Blue Lab PH meter (not the pen). I really love my MW102. Very accurate and the probe is responsive. Plus the .01 res. rocks. Both the Milwaukee and the Blue Lab are solid performers and I would recommend both. The warranty on the Blue Lab is better, so that is something to consider. Plus, I really love the suction cup on the blue lab probe. It keeps the probe in place so it doesn't sink to the bottom of your reservoir. The MW102 has a nice lanyard attachment that I really dig, so you can clip it to your belt loop. The Blue Lab has no lanyard attachment :(
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Earlyriser76 said:
Went to water today and the new PH pen is broken.

I have the PH strips, the drops and 2 broken PH pens and don't trust any of them.

The drops say it's PH 4.0 the pen 11.5 and the strips don't seem to change no matter how many drops of PH up I put in my nutes. Everything is 5.5.
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These drops have a narrow range and higher resolution. I'll always trust these over cheap meters!
https://www.amazon.com/API-250-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium-Water/dp/B000255NAK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=api+ph+test+kit&qid=1557623422&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Cheap ph meters can get expensive. They need endless calibration and it's a pain in the ass! You also have to keep buying calibration solution!
They aren't very accurate and often the "pens" don't have a cap that seals tightly, then the storage solution leaks out or evaporates.
After getting my $115 Milwaukee MW102, I concluded that the BEST I could do with my $25 Milwaukee ph-600 was about + or - .2 or .3 points accuracy!

1. ALWAYS keep them in storage solution.
2. NEVER let them dry out.
3. NEVER store in RO or distilled water.
4. The probes are delicate, be gentle with them! After use, always rinse in distilled or RO water and keep it in storage solution.

http://lab-training.com/2013/09/19/correct-handling-and-care-of-ph-meter/
http://www.ph-meter.info/pH-electrode-maintenance
 
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1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
jonnynobody said:
I'll second that recommendation. I tried a $120 Hanna and wasn't impressed with the accuracy. I returned it for a refund. I bought a Milwaukee MW102 and a Blue Lab PH meter (not the pen). I really love my MW102. Very accurate and the probe is responsive. Plus the .01 res. rocks. Both the Milwaukee and the Blue Lab are solid performers and I would recommend both. I really love the suction cup on the blue lab probe.
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I use a twist tie to make a little hook on the probes cord, then hang it off the edge of a bottle or bucket.;)
I've only heard good things about the MW102 and Blue Lab meters. I really like the .01 accuracy and digital calibration of the MW102. The calibration is a number stored in memory, rather than the adjustment of a pot in an analog circuit.
 
Bubblin

Bubblin

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
Cheap ph meters can get expensive. They need endless calibration and it's a pain in the ass! You also have to keep buying calibration solution!
Click to expand...
Haven't had to calibrate my bluelab meters in well over 2 yrs, I check emm every few months and they're still spot on.
n Calibration fluid stores well, just dump the some of the fluid into clean test jars and keep it in a dark place.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
1212ham said:
These drops have a narrow range and higher resolution. I'll always trust these over cheap meters!
https://www.amazon.com/API-250-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium-Water/dp/B000255NAK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=api+ph+test+kit&qid=1557623422&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Cheap ph meters can get expensive. They need endless calibration and it's a pain in the ass! You also have to keep buying calibration solution!
They aren't very accurate and often the "pens" don't have a cap that seals tightly, then the storage solution leaks out or evaporates.
After getting my $115 Milwaukee MW102, I concluded that the BEST I could do with my $25 Milwaukee ph-600 was about + or - .2 or .3 points accuracy!

1. ALWAYS keep them in storage solution.
2. NEVER let them dry out.
3. NEVER store in RO or distilled water.
4. The probes are delicate, be gentle with them! After use, always rinse in distilled or RO water and keep it in storage solution.

http://lab-training.com/2013/09/19/correct-handling-and-care-of-ph-meter/
http://www.ph-meter.info/pH-electrode-maintenance
Click to expand...

nobody seems to believe me here but the milwaukee rep told me to store the probe in distilled or RO and i've been doing so since iv'e had it ( 6 years at least). he told me to rinse in white vinegar, than a quick rinse in ro/distilled and then store in ro/distilled.
 
Earlyriser76

Earlyriser76

Well-Known Member
Update: I doubt I ever go back to 100% Perlite hempy again. 70/30 coco/perlite in fabric pots seems like a better choice for me.

I'm doing a run in 8 gallon milk crates lined with this weed barrier. I have 4 plants per crate and they are doing well.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-3-ft-x-50-ft-WeedBlock-Weed-Barrier-Landscape-Fabric-with-Microfunnels-1242RV/302720132

For PH, I'm back on the GH drops and it's working fine. Both Maxi products really lower PH so PH up is absolutely necessary for me in-spite of what people say. My tap is PH 7 but after Maxibloom it's PH 4 or 5 at most. 3 ml's of PH up per 4 gallons of nutes seems to get me in the right range of PH 6 and as long as I keep my veg in the 750PPm range and bloom in 1000 PPM range I'm good enough. YMMV.
 
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