1lb plants 1st attempt

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Here's a brief description of my set up. Everything is drain to waste, top feed into rockwool cubes in 17l buckets. Flower room is 2.6mx1.2m there's 2 600s in there but I can add another when the stretch is finished and the space is filled. Temperature is maintained between 26.5-27.5.

This will be perpetual and I have some clones rooting in the propagator which will be transplanted into pots by the time the flowrring plants have 8 weeks left. Therefore giving each plant 8 weeks veg before flip.

It's worth noting that if I find they don't fill the space and I could fit another one in then I will, so that would be 3 plants. It's the first time I've grown anything this size so this run is abit of a shot in the dark. But atleast by the next run il be familiar with the stretch so il know how many I need.
 

wiethe20

Well-Known Member
Imo I'd be pruning a tad bit in the center going down.... I don't cut all things off like some people, but just a lil trim won't hurt 8-)
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Yeah trimming the little energy sapping shoots will be happening in the next couple days as will the weighting down of certain branches to get the girls more flat and spread out. Thanks for the advice mate.
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Good luck bro. I'm not saying you won't but, even if you don't hit a pound you'll be happy with the smoke. I grew nl5Xhaze a long time ago and it was fucking killer!
Thanks bro. This is a more indica pheno compared to others the stretch is still fucking killer though. Apparently the nl5xhaze you grew was from far superior stock as I've heard sensi don't breed it quite like they used to.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Ok, so if you're serious about your pound a plant, I think a few upgrades are in order;

1. Put panda film on all the walls from knee height to even with the lamps. Reason is to reflect as much light as possible. No, paint isn't good enough and you want the diffuse bounce of white, and not the hard bounce of Mylar.

2. Get another 600W setup, and then run all four inline down the middle of the room; put a pair back to back over each plant, and then make sure your fan sucks the air through your cooling duct, don't blow thru. This will ensure you have plenty of light well spread out for the next step...

3. Use some kind of frame and string or net to create a proper ScrOG screen over each plant and pull all those branches wide open! You'll better than double the canopy surface area and you'll be leveling it out at the perfect one meter distance from the lamps.

4. Make sure you feed them plenty of nutes and water because they'll be hungry!

5. Circulate plenty of fresh air around them, don't let humidity get too high OR too low, as that also slows growth.

6. Keep up with training, but stretch is already half over, an ideal time for a ScrOG install.
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Ok, so if you're serious about your pound a plant, I think a few upgrades are in order;

1. Put panda film on all the walls from knee height to even with the lamps. Reason is to reflect as much light as possible. No, paint isn't good enough and you want the diffuse bounce of white, and not the hard bounce of Mylar.

2. Get another 600W setup, and then run all four inline down the middle of the room; put a pair back to back over each plant, and then make sure your fan sucks the air through your cooling duct, don't blow thru. This will ensure you have plenty of light well spread out for the next step...

3. Use some kind of frame and string or net to create a proper ScrOG screen over each plant and pull all those branches wide open! You'll better than double the canopy surface area and you'll be leveling it out at the perfect one meter distance from the lamps.

4. Make sure you feed them plenty of nutes and water because they'll be hungry!

5. Circulate plenty of fresh air around them, don't let humidity get too high OR too low, as that also slows growth.

6. Keep up with training, but stretch is already half over, an ideal time for a ScrOG install.
Hey tty I was hoping you'd swing by.

Suggestion 1, yeah il sort that out aSAP I need to go get more panda film.

Suggestion 2, unfortunately 4 lights will not work on the circuitry in place, I've not long had this op and I'm waiting on a trusted electrician to come and upgrade it, at which point the 3 600s will become 3 1000s. Also I allwAys blew cold air through my tubes as opposed to sucking hot air through the fan. This was just something I was told to do when learning and I never really questioned it. Something about hot air reducing fan life And leaky duct work allowing smelly air into the cooling flow which would blow it around the house. If I'm missing something please correct me.

Suggestion 3, this is the one I've been waiting for, ive never used a screen in any of my grows and I feel abit daunted by the process. Will it make much more difference than simply tying and bending? I allready know the answer lol. Of course it wIll or you wouldn't of suggested it. What size screen?

Suggestion 4 and 5 bro forget about it. Nutes are dialed to the tits for this strain. Air is constantly maintained to 26.5-27.5C and humidity is what I make it, I've found these girls like higher than Normal humidity in early flower, probably the haze genetics, but yes mate environment is sweet. I've got a killer 18" floor standing fan which stirs the airmass lovely.

Suggestion 6, do you mean to keep topping? I've heard people suggest this for stretch strains like this but personally I've found it to be more detrimental to flower production. If you mean just keep up with the bending and adding a scrog screen then yes mate that's what I plan on doing.

Thanks for the suggestions tty, ur input is always taken on board
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
First, glad you're taking my suggestions in the spirit they're given. I appreciate the feedback on space and infrastructure limitations.

1. Panda film the walls and duct tape the seams. Then you can wipe them clean with a cloth soaked in cleaning solution between runs and get all your spray residue off.

2. Given the shape of your space, I really think 4 x 600W will be better in nearly every way than 3 thouies- and you'll save some watts. At least think it over; two of them will always distribute the light better than one thouie, and the difference in wattage is small for the benefits gained. The ScrOG approach means the heavy penetrating power of a thouie isn't needed. 600W is slightly more efficient, plus you've already invested in them, so it's a cheaper upgrade for you.

3. Lots of good ScrOG threads out there; the main points are;
A. Level plane of netting to create a level plane with your canopy
B. Topping isn't strictly needed, but topping the very ends of the biggest runners will give you a much bigger return than you may expect.
C. Level plane at the pepper distance from good lights = maximum efficiency = maximum potential yield
D. Now is your last best chance with this crop, I wouldn't wait much past day ten of bloom, early is better in future 3" squares work, but try whatever you like.

4,5- glad to hear it, the point is to be vigilant for the needs of the plants to be more than you've seen before. ScrOG boosts output and therefore inputs, big time!

6. Just top the biggest runners to get an even canopy. Do it soon. Don't do any of it past day fourteen. Pruning and removing undergrowth should continue, however.

Those girls are big, healthy and ready to put out- this could be epic!
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
First, glad you're taking my suggestions in the spirit they're given. I appreciate the feedback on space and infrastructure limitations.

1. Panda film the walls and duct tape the seams. Then you can wipe them clean with a cloth soaked in cleaning solution between runs and get all your spray residue off.

2. Given the shape of your space, I really think 4 x 600W will be better in nearly every way than 3 thouies- and you'll save some watts. At least think it over; two of them will always distribute the light better than one thouie, and the difference in wattage is small for the benefits gained. The ScrOG approach means the heavy penetrating power of a thouie isn't needed. 600W is slightly more efficient, plus you've already invested in them, so it's a cheaper upgrade for you.

3. Lots of good ScrOG threads out there; the main points are;
A. Level plane of netting to create a level plane with your canopy
B. Topping isn't strictly needed, but topping the very ends of the biggest runners will give you a much bigger return than you may expect.
C. Level plane at the pepper distance from good lights = maximum efficiency = maximum potential yield
D. Now is your last best chance with this crop, I wouldn't wait much past day ten of bloom, early is better in future 3" squares work, but try whatever you like.

4,5- glad to hear it, the point is to be vigilant for the needs of the plants to be more than you've seen before. ScrOG boosts output and therefore inputs, big time!

6. Just top the biggest runners to get an even canopy. Do it soon. Don't do any of it past day fourteen. Pruning and removing undergrowth should continue, however.

Those girls are big, healthy and ready to put out- this could be epic!
Il get back to ya tomorrow it's bed time here lol
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Ok guys welcome bAck, had a major issue since my last post that's why I've been away from this thread. So my one time saving grace (beneficial bacteria) allowed a small population of fungus gnats to thrive in my rootzone. I've since switched back to using h2o2 to keep everything as sterike as possible. The gnats APEAR to be gone now though.

So I got the extra 600 in there and also bought anothe system to go in line with the others to make a row of 4 600w hps through the middle of the 2.6x1.2 space. Unfortunately I've been waiting for an electrical upgrade before I can run all 4 at the same time (hopefully next week) I must say it feels like home being back above the 50 watts per square foot mark.

As tty suggested scrog would have filled up the space better than just bending and tying. This will definitely be implemented on the next run as I missed the chance to do it and now I wish I had. The plants haven't totally filled the space right now they're round with a diameter of 1.2 metres. Square would have been better and the best way to get that is gonna be to train them through a square screen.

It's day 43 of flower today and they're looking further along than I had expected. 28 days left.

I see a lot of people flowrring sexually immature plants (I used to be one of them) but you sacrifice flower time and yield by doing this. cuts taken from an immature mother will allwAys do worse than cuts taken from a sexually mature mother . Just thought I'd get that in for anyone watching as I've watched this strain go absolutely bonkers since she was put in the flower room.

Another thing, pros may jump In here and tell me I'm wrong but since growing a monster like this I've experienced a lot of N def which at one point had me feeding equal ratios of grow and bloom nutes. The relationship between plant stage and nutrient requirements is not transferable. These girls are drinking something daft like 1500 ppm which is about 400ppm more than normal for this strain. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will chime in. I know there's too many variables that can impact upon nutrient requirements but Environment is as close to identical to previous runs as possible.

Last week I said fuck it and stopped adding grow nutrients which has led to the plants yellowing up quicker than anticipated so il probably start adding grow nutes again. Times like this make me wish I was using dyna gro. Once this canna is empty I will be making the change. I've had a good run with canna but as my skills and knowledge of nutrients has developed I've realised I require a different formula when growing plants of this size. All my previous grows were successfull and produced bountiful harvests but it's just not good enough for these girls.

Ok so here's some pix

Ok not as many pix as I thought I had il take sum more later today and post them up. Cheers guys
 

Attachments

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
It's worth noting to anyone reading, gnats are no joke in hydro, they munch roots quickly vs soil where they have a whole bunch of other shit to eat first. One of my girls suffered more than the other, I can only imagine they were eating her roots so she stopped drinking as much which only made the problem worse as she wasn't drying out as much between waterings which creates the perfect rootzone environment for gnats to thrive.

I could have opted to use nematodes to kill the gnats which would have paired nicely with the live rootzone I was running but I just wasn't prepared to take the risk. I dropped everything and pumped the rootzone full of h2o2 at high strength. I now treat the reservoir with h2o2 every three days.

Next upgrade will be an aquarium ozone generator to treat all the reservoirs, removing the need for hydrogen peroxide.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Looks good so far. Depending on your substrate, you might try 'Gognats', concentrated oil of cedar tree, IIRC? It puts the hurt on fungus gnats... not for use in DWC/RDWC!
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
Looks good so far. Depending on your substrate, you might try 'Gognats', concentrated oil of cedar tree, IIRC? It puts the hurt on fungus gnats... not for use in DWC/RDWC!
I probably would have tried other stuff first but oxidisation has been good to me in the past and it worked this time. What is IIRC? I'll get some more pix up soon tty.

On a side note tty. If someone were to want the lowest maintenance dwc system what would you reccomend? Plenty vertical space but no horizontal space for large res. I was thinking maybe a large flat water tank underneath bubble buckets. Fitting a control bucket in somewhere would be fine but like I said no room for a 200l water butt.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I probably would have tried other stuff first but oxidisation has been good to me in the past and it worked this time. What is IIRC? I'll get some more pix up soon tty.

On a side note tty. If someone were to want the lowest maintenance dwc system what would you reccomend? Plenty vertical space but no horizontal space for large res. I was thinking maybe a large flat water tank underneath bubble buckets. Fitting a control bucket in somewhere would be fine but like I said no room for a 200l water butt.
IIRC= If I Recall Correctly

Urbandictionary.com is your friend and mine.

I've even coined phrases and had them accepted there! My favorite is 'chain toker.'

Brutal truth; you want low maintenance? Go with soil.
 

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
IIRC= If I Recall Correctly

Urbandictionary.com is your friend and mine.

I've even coined phrases and had them accepted there! My favorite is 'chain toker.'

Brutal truth; you want low maintenance? Go with soil.
Lol naaaah soil is no good for me I don't want that low maintenance. I'm not asking for lower maintenance than what I'm doing now just the lowest maintenance dwc.
 
Top