the bud density of 1000's will make your mouth water
go for the 3 1000's im running 2 of them in a 8x4 area and loveing it huge change out from 600 watters in the density of the buds
3 1000W or 5 600W?
- Thread starter legaleyes13
- Start date
go for the 3 1000's im running 2 of them in a 8x4 area and loveing it huge change out from 600 watters in the density of the buds
legaleyes13
Well-Known Member
I'm trying to avoid using an AC at all cost. I think if I vent the lights, get a good dehumidifier and strategically place my fans, I can keep things under 90 degrees. Why do you say adjusta wings? Have you had experience with anything else?
U will find dead spots only using two 1000 watters I guarantee you and the dinstity of the bud is the same for a 600 as a 1000 saying there is diff is straight newbish and I take it you haven't done many diff grows using diff light wattages just my take on ur knowledge just cause there is light on the plant doesn't mean that that light will make the plant produce like u want it to it's about intensity and more coverage area will give you better intensity
I may be "newbish" but you can't read or understand what you are even righting
never said he should use 2-1000w for his area i said im useing 2=1000w for my area, i said he should use 3-1000watters
" You say " it's about intensity" 1000Watts is WAY more Intense Compared to a 600 watt
Not compared to 2 600 watters it's not u just keep growin the way u do yo and be happy and worry about how I write
Do I need to do the math for you (2)1000W HPS versus (6)600W? Let us say you pay 10 cents per kilowatt hour, and you are running these lights on a simple 12/12 schedule everyday for a year.
(2)1000W = 2kw per hour
(6)600W = 3.6kw per hour
365 days x 12 hours per day = 4,380 hours total
Now that we have the total hours, we can calculate the cost of each individual setup.
(2)1000W; 4,380 hours x 2kw per hour x .10 cents per kw = $876 per year to constantly run (2)1000W HPS bulbs 12 hours a day all year.
(6)600W; 4,380 hours x 3.6kw per hour x .10 cents per kw = $1,576.8 per year to constantly run (6)1000W HPS bulbs 12 hours a day all year.
Now since you are going to be growing over the exact same area, a 12'x4' table, why on earth would you run so much light, do you honestly believe that you are going to be able to yield such a substantial amount of marijuana in comparison to someone running 2 1000W? Do you believe you will make up for the amount of electricity used? I didn't even account for keeping temperatures cool and how much easier it is to run ducting to two lights as opposed to six lights.
If a 600W covers a 4'x4' area and a 1000W covers a 5'x5' area, and you are running a 12'x4' table which is a total of 48 square feet. Now since 1000W covers 25 square feet, and two cover 50 square feet, why on earth would you go with 6 600W that would give you a total of 16x6= 96 square feet. You are wasting light, and wasting money, and efficient growing is how we are going to save the planet.
Don't believe in that "light mover stuff"? Tell me, do plants in nature get sunlight from one direction? Also on top of that, do you honestly believe that any plant not receiving direct sunlight "under performs"? If that was a reality then nothing would grow in the shade, all fan leaves under the canopy would immediately die and there would be no lower buds on the branches. Which clearly isn't true, so just because you have a bud 10" from the bulb and another bud 18" from the bulb you're trying to tell me that you could discern once dried and cured between those two top colas? No, you can't.
Its more than intriguing, it is the most efficient way to grow.
A light mover would cover the discrepancy of the 1 foot not being covered by the 5'x5' footprint of the bulbs. Also what do you mean by "dead spot", no light? Not going to happen, but take a meter for measuring light intensity and you will see towards the edges how much the intensity will drop off.
cannabineer
Ursus marijanus
In many locales, the math is worsened by the progressive electric rate scale. The extra wattage all comes out of the marginal (highest) rate. cn
MonsterBuzz
Member
there is a few posts in the thread that i think could use a little addressing in case someone who dont know much starts to read this.
But to the op first. your 4x12 table is 48sqft. if you go by the "the cannabis grow bible" (a good read for starters) you should start with 50w per sqft. making it a min. of 2400w that you need. yes more is better, so the comment tossed out about 4-600's would work but i am a firm believer in light rails. one reason is it will cost less to get a good light mover than it would be to buy a hood,light and ballast. your power consumption is decreased plus less need for the a/c and you can set it up to get an even better light pattern thus negating a need for an extra light. google agramover its the one i prefer. and the best part of all with a light mover, you could get your 1k's much closer to your plants and not burn them!!
now i agree with IndicaDom and he makes some solid points. i would note that 2-1k's and a light mover is spot on and ill tell ya why.
its proven that 1'ks can reach lower branches better than a 600w can. now that fact is ruined when your 1k's sit on top of your plants thus meaning you have to move them up so you dont burn the top of your plant. and the reason for the 1k's getting to lower branches is because of the inverse square law which is (intensity=light output/distance²).
but when your moving the lights the plants will have time to recover from the momentary stress from having the 1k's closer thus making the light able to hit your lower branches and allowing more flowering.
i will point out that 600's are more efficient than the 1k's by about 7%. but once again that is also a mute point when moving your lights and considering all other factors.
good luck with whatever you chose to do.
btw i am not a master grower, never will be as i am always looking for a better way to grow and learn about growing. so if someone wants to pick my post apart thats cool.
But to the op first. your 4x12 table is 48sqft. if you go by the "the cannabis grow bible" (a good read for starters) you should start with 50w per sqft. making it a min. of 2400w that you need. yes more is better, so the comment tossed out about 4-600's would work but i am a firm believer in light rails. one reason is it will cost less to get a good light mover than it would be to buy a hood,light and ballast. your power consumption is decreased plus less need for the a/c and you can set it up to get an even better light pattern thus negating a need for an extra light. google agramover its the one i prefer. and the best part of all with a light mover, you could get your 1k's much closer to your plants and not burn them!!
now i agree with IndicaDom and he makes some solid points. i would note that 2-1k's and a light mover is spot on and ill tell ya why.
its proven that 1'ks can reach lower branches better than a 600w can. now that fact is ruined when your 1k's sit on top of your plants thus meaning you have to move them up so you dont burn the top of your plant. and the reason for the 1k's getting to lower branches is because of the inverse square law which is (intensity=light output/distance²).
but when your moving the lights the plants will have time to recover from the momentary stress from having the 1k's closer thus making the light able to hit your lower branches and allowing more flowering.
i will point out that 600's are more efficient than the 1k's by about 7%. but once again that is also a mute point when moving your lights and considering all other factors.
good luck with whatever you chose to do.
btw i am not a master grower, never will be as i am always looking for a better way to grow and learn about growing. so if someone wants to pick my post apart thats cool.
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
light movers in flower? no thanks......
Warlock1369
Well-Known Member
3000w and no AC? Good luck keeping it under 90. I'm running 2600w of air cooled hoods and if I wasn't running AC in my sealed room it would rain in there all the time and be 120. Trust me I Tryed it. Well placed fans don't cool the air just move the heat around. Unless you deside to water cool the room that's a diffent story. But take my advice. Even in freezing temps with less light same area I need AC. So have a plan to install something after you try your first idea. And I'm not being a smart ass. Just stating I wasn't able to pull it off any way I Tryed.
Warlock1369
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with movers. You just don't want to go crazy with the move ment. If you keep your lights over lapping and moving under 3 feet and reflective mat on the walls it's good.
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
light mover or another light? pretty easy quess.
light movers r great in veg, leave them there. buy another light.
oh wait!! but the heat? get a fucking a/c for christ sake.
light movers r great in veg, leave them there. buy another light.
oh wait!! but the heat? get a fucking a/c for christ sake.
I am on board with you, light movers are too awesome. I also am in pursuit of the most efficient and scientific way to grow, so I always want to see side by side grows, etc.
Lol you see, some dogs can't learn new tricks.
With the amount of electricity you are using, I would triple the yield you pull. You are an inefficient grower and the worse part about it? You're proud.
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
what electricity am i using? u would tripple my yield? show me.
pics or your just a dumb fuck, running your mouth, insulting me cuz u dont have shit.
The New Jim Jones
Well-Known Member
if your a good grower who gets a gram per watt, 5 600's is better, 3.6kw or 3.6kg, while the 3 1000's is 3kw or 3kg
"Pics or your just a dumb fuck" really, is that the ultimatum you're giving me? Oh noes, I better provide evidence or some guy who can barely keep his spelling in check might have a lower opinion of me! It is clear you are an inefficient grower by saying that buying another light and an additional A/C system to run that said light is just ridiculous. Then you go on to bash light movers, lol, I mean come on, you are just asking to be labeled as ignorant.
Cooling 5 600's versus cooling 3 1000's, that is the reason your numbers don't work out when you start calculating costs of electricity.
GrnMn
Active Member
nothing beats the almighty 1k's. go with the 1000w. you won't be sorry.
legaleyes13
Well-Known Member
I was afraid of this. I'd rather search the ends of the earth for a way to keep things under 90 degrees while avoiding the use of an A/C, then actually having to use one. But unfortunately, it looks like that may not be possible. That amount of wattage would really effect my peace of mind, but if it has to be done, then it has to be done.
If any of you can enlighten me with some other solution, then please do so... Thanks