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Randomblame said:

Oh man, even more cattle stuff?!
Do the little white dots shine a little silvery? If yes, it's so called tripse! The ladybucks and gladiator mites should also help here.
Seems to me that your soil was not of good quality...

Tripse are most of the time introduced over the potting soil. Cheap soil is not heated up to kill those insects and therefore it is sometimes full of bad insects. Mix a few cups of diatomaceous earth under the potting ground or buy equally a good soil mix next time. Pro-Mix, Light-Mix for example.
Diatomaceous earth destroys the chitin shell of insects, both the bad and the good ones unfortunately, they simply "bleed to death". It is eg. used in horses or cowsheds to lime the walls and floor or as flo-powder for dogs, cats, chickens, etc.
You really had a lot of bad luck with this run.

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Randomblame said:

Oh man, even more cattle stuff?!
Do the little white dots shine a little silvery? If yes, it's so called tripse! The ladybucks and gladiator mites should also help here.
Seems to me that your soil was not of good quality...

Tripse are most of the time introduced over the potting soil. Cheap soil is not heated up to kill those insects and therefore it is sometimes full of bad insects. Mix a few cups of diatomaceous earth under the potting ground or buy equally a good soil mix next time. Pro-Mix, Light-Mix for example.
Diatomaceous earth destroys the chitin shell of insects, both the bad and the good ones unfortunately, they simply "bleed to death". It is eg. used in horses or cowsheds to lime the walls and floor or as flo-powder for dogs, cats, chickens, etc.
You really had a lot of bad luck with this run.

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Moflow said:

One of the reasons I stopped using cheap B&Q soil was spidermites and thrip.
The last attack I had was thrip.
I used Mighty Wash, left them a few days and then introduced amblyseius cucumbers.
No more thrip!
I've also had great success getting rid of spidermites with their other products.

https://www.defenders.co.uk/pest-solutions/thrips-control.html.

They used to make a concentrated spray for spidermite control - was 100% Succesful but it was taken off the market 4/5 years ago..... damm those eu safety rules lol

My theory is people dump their garden waste - which is full of pests in amenity centre, they compost it and resell back to us still full of pests!

I quite probably have spidermites and thrip in my outdoors garden but nature keeps things in check with cooler temps and birds etc. But when the cheap contaminated soil gets introduced to optimum growroom temps the wee feckers just explode.

I highly recommend introducing the predator mites.

Although I can remember once my son and his mate got their wires crossed at a grow they had. They had spidermites so mate got the predators and applied them and next day my son sprayed the plants with insecticides! Doh!

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Randomblame said:

Sorry!
F ***** spoke barrier!
This critters are called tripse in my language
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thrips

BTW, they must came out of the soil except she was standing outside eg. for vegging..

And with "cattle-stuff" I mean "all possible insects", because you have found a few different in such a short time.
The silvery-white dots are a clear indication that "Tripse" are at work. No other insect leaves such silvery sucker marks.

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Moflow said:

I heard if you spray the ladybugs with 1/5 coke and water mixture they don't fly away???

Coke, Diet Coke or Coke Zero...???

We'e did you hear that?

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JSheeze said:

I guess I read it lol...

View attachment 4050367

https://www.420magazine.com/forums/problems-pests-and-disease-control/119133-ladybugs-vs-spidermites.html

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Randomblame said:

She is filling up nicely and buds starts fox-tailing, so another 10 days and she should be ready to chop.
Do you have a magnifying glass?
A good time to chop is when the 50% of the trichomes are milky-turbid to amber-purple discolored. The more milky the are the more couchlock you get, LOL! Earlier chopping leads more to an up-high but is assosiated with less weight.

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JSheeze said:

I fed her for the last time then tonight (MG 15-30-15, 1/2 strength).

Is 10 days of pure water enough of a flush?

*Also, just realized last night that I had the timer set @ 13(on)/11(off) instead of 12/12. Maybe this was the reason for the lack of smell/poor resin production? I switched it to 11.5/12.5.

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Moflow said:

I wouldn't give any more feed now.
Just water.
I'll check the MG ec for ya....if I've a box still in my shed. I use it in my oudoor garden.
I hate the MG crystals as it always damps up on me, ends up as mush lol. And it froths up on mixing.
I use liquid tomato food like Tomatorite

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Randomblame said:

Yepp, 10 days is enough!

The lack of smell and resin is probably strain dependent and has nothing to do with the light regime.

But the "leafy" flowers are probably caused by the 5000°k bulbs and I would try all 2700-3500°k next time, at least at the time you switch to 12/12h.

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Dave455 said:

So really having 5000k and 3000k blended in same fixture not best for flowering ?

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Randomblame said:

It depends on how much coolwhite/5000-6500°k you use.

The more blue the more leaves will be developed in the flowers. Even 5000°k alone is okay for some varieties (like streching sativas), but most strains benefit in flowering with warm white light.

Grow two identical clones for 4 weeks/18h, one under 5000°K, the other at 3000°K. You will see that the 5000°k plant is more compact, has more nodes and more but smaller leaves. This also continues in bloom, the flowers will be denser and more compact, but have much more tiny leaves.
Many HPS growers use some MH bulbs in their tents to get more compact plants and denser buds.

With only ⅓ 5000°k and ⅔ 3000°k you will get ~3660°k and probalbly see no side effects but with ⅔ 5000°k and only ⅓ 3000°k you will have ~4330°k and I could imagine that you will see a difference when compared to a 3000°k plant.

Phenotypes are also spectrum dependent sometimes and in some cases a plant flowered under 5000°k can look completely different as the same plant grown under 3000°k. Especially in hybrid varieties, different phenotypes can form under different circumstances. A jam.Lambsbreed for instance from the summer harvest looks quite different, like the ones that are pulled in the short winter half. Same seeds but completely different acting plants...

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