A little diy - 24 cxb3590 4 hlg320

Brewery

Well-Known Member
hey all,

Firstly I'd like to thank the pioneers here - without growmau5 alone I'd never even attempt this.

I decided to take the leap and replace my hps with a bunch of cree cxb3590's. I've been running 1-2 600w hps and struggle dumping the heat especially in the warm weather. Creating less heat per watt alone had me sold on the COB technology.

My goal was to create a modular COB arrray that can replace 600-1800w hps depending on the number of panels used. I decided to build 4 separate panels each housing 6 cxb3590. The citizen and bridgelux products were not on my radar when I made the design - I may kick myself over that one later but my knowledge of cobs is a little lacking.

Here's the parts I used:
24@ cree cxb3590 3500k cd bin
4@ meanwell hlg320 1400b
150mm kingbrite heat sinks
Ideal holders / adapters, kingbrite reflectors
~70ft 3/4x3/4x1/8 6061 aluminum angle


Firstly, the cobs and sinks:
IMG_1844.JPG

1/2 of an array mocked up:
IMG_1852.JPG

Frame and wiring done (sorry for the quick jump - I was entrenched in my work)
IMG_1857.JPG
IMG_1858.JPG

And into the tent:
IMG_1861.JPG IMG_1859.JPG

Well that's two arrays completed - the other two are framed out but need all electrical work done.

When finishing those two I'll be changing the ac side of the connection a little - I'm planning to wire a nema locking receptical on the driver pigtail vs the direct soldered connection to the cord. I believe this will be a cleaner solution.

I'm also going to add a switch in the dimming circuit.

A couple things I learned -

-While a stronger option the 6061 aluminum has a rounded inside corner.
-mount cobs to heatsink after the array/framework is completed.
-drilling and cutting aluminum in your house will make your wife crazy.
-these things are heavy! - I might have to beef up my tent.

Any tips on the transition from hps? As you can see I tossed these over a hps grow in progress.

Brewery.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Maybe keep the new lights farther away from plants for a week then lower them down as it might shock and awe them lol
They'll like more food as well.
Nice setup.
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
Pay attention to the higher demand on Magnesium and Calcium. I usually run double the strength as it says on the bottle. You may also want to raise the room temperature by 5* or so. This is because there will be no IR heating your leaf surface.
 

Brewery

Well-Known Member
Pay attention to the higher demand on Magnesium and Calcium. I usually run double the strength as it says on the bottle. You may also want to raise the room temperature by 5* or so. This is because there will be no IR heating your leaf surface.
Wonderful - I've just stopped chasing a mg deficiency in my soil. At least I've got practice.

I'll see where the temps are sitting tonight after 24hrs under the array. Room was running 81/64 under a single 600 hps.
 

Brewery

Well-Known Member
Update: temps have dropped to 75/64.

I installed switches in the dimmer lead on the last two arrays. There is a noticeable increase in output from the one driver - I assume the cheap 100k potentiometers are not a true 100k resistance. I would consider this a must have in any future builds. Especially for the low cost of the additional switch. The two original arrays have been taken down and are back on the work bench.

Another benefit is that during flower I can just use the switch to toggle to a dimmed output when I'm working in the garden. Win/win
 

nogod_

Well-Known Member
Anytime you have the dimmer circuit hooked up you are running @ 100% max

When you break the dimmer circuit with a switch, the driver runs @ 105-110%

Nuttin wrong with the pot just always nice to be able to use a switch get those extra photons out of the driver when you want it cranked to 11.

Update: temps have dropped to 75/64.

I installed switches in the dimmer lead on the last two arrays. There is a noticeable increase in output from the one driver - I assume the cheap 100k potentiometers are not a true 100k resistance. I would consider this a must have in any future builds. Especially for the low cost of the additional switch. The two original arrays have been taken down and are back on the work bench.

Another benefit is that during flower I can just use the switch to toggle to a dimmed output when I'm working in the garden. Win/win
 

Brewery

Well-Known Member
Anytime you have the dimmer circuit hooked up you are running @ 100% max

When you break the dimmer circuit with a switch, the driver runs @ 105-110%

Nuttin wrong with the pot just always nice to be able to use a switch get those extra photons out of the driver when you want it cranked to 11.
There's something else going on - I can compare the identical arrays side x side.

array "a" shows no noticeable difference to the human eye between max power (dimmer) and open switch. I'll trust there is an increase in output as that appears to be the common consensus but it's not noticeable to my eyes.

Array "b" shows a noticeable difference in the same setup. Array "a" is also noticeably brighter than array "b" at max power (dimmer) yet they appear identical once the dimming switches are open.

I'm about the furthest thing from an electrical engineer but logic leads me to suspect the cheap "b100k" surplus potentiometers I used over the expensive meanwell drivers
 
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