Air Conditioning/cooling help 1000w

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exarmy

Active Member
Hey Guys,

I finally got a 1k light and i got my little setup up. IR-block on the walls. 6in euro reflector hood, 6in can fan, no filter yet cuz temps suck. The air is being pushed out and into the attic. My space is 48in by 25in and 6ft tall......I know its small but i know I can acomplish this. As it sits lights running at night because Texas sucks. and temps at the begining of the nights the temps will be in lower 90's (90-93) but around 1am on its 88-89.

Now I have an 8in can fan I could try to swap in.

Another critical fact is I dont have a fan in there mixing the air up yet but i doubt thats going to help that much.

So I was thinking about a small 5000btu a/c unit from sears for like 99bux. what do you think?
 
hwy420

hwy420

Well-Known Member
JonnyBtreed said:
works for me, got a 52000btu keeps my temps at 70* check out my album for pics on my setup
Click to expand...
Well it all depends on how you want to hook it up. 'Perpetually' you would not want to ventilate any air at all. If you bought a "dual hose" portable AC unit, you could keep it cool with no exhaust except the "dual hose" portable ac unit. A portable "dual hose" AC unit is designed to suck outside air, and throw it back out about 40 degrees hotter. While inside, the AC unit essentially "recirculates" the cold air it produces to keep it extra cool, unlike window units. They are a little bit more expensive, like 500$. Some people say that on really hot days outside, that the air the "dual hose" port ac unit exchanges, is so hot, that it does not effectively cool the inside. But I've not had that problem.

Now I have heard of people buying the 99$ Window AC unit and rigging it up so that it functions like a portable "dual hose" ac unit.

It is said that 3,000BTU's of AC Cooling PER 1000W, so I know with a 5000BTU, you would probably be good.
 
JonnyBtreed

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
Haven't had a problem, thats what mine was, well actually 125$ but on the plus side the water that collects in the bucket is 007 ppm. Better than a lot of RO systems
 
sagensour

sagensour

Active Member
hwy420 said:
Well it all depends on how you want to hook it up. 'Perpetually' you would not want to ventilate any air at all. If you bought a "dual hose" portable AC unit, you could keep it cool with no exhaust except the "dual hose" portable ac unit. A portable "dual hose" AC unit is designed to suck outside air, and throw it back out about 40 degrees hotter. While inside, the AC unit essentially "recirculates" the cold air it produces to keep it extra cool, unlike window units. They are a little bit more expensive, like 500$. Some people say that on really hot days outside, that the air the "dual hose" port ac unit exchanges, is so hot, that it does not effectively cool the inside. But I've not had that problem.

Now I have heard of people buying the 99$ Window AC unit and rigging it up so that it functions like a portable "dual hose" ac unit.

It is said that 3,000BTU's of AC Cooling PER 1000W, so I know with a 5000BTU, you would probably be good.
Click to expand...

ditto. After you buy a 5000 btu ac you should only turn that fan on for a minute an hour. You dont want to continually extract your conditioned air. Maybe co2 and you can run your fan even less or even not at all. You will always want a little bit of a fresh air exchange in your grow area.
 
sagensour

sagensour

Active Member
JonnyBtreed said:
Haven't had a problem, thats what mine was, well actually 125$ but on the plus side the water that collects in the bucket is 007 ppm. Better than a lot of RO systems
Click to expand...

I am a HVAC technician for some time now. I wouldnt write this if I wasnt positive on what I am sharing with you. The water that comes from the side of your A/C system is made by the humidity in your home that the air conditioner does not absorb, so the collection of water actually apears from the humdity in the air. The water is very corrosive HYDRO-CHLORIC ACID!!! I hope that you do not water your plants with this. It is definantly non-potable water. Hope that helps.
 
hwy420

hwy420

Well-Known Member
sagensour said:
I am a HVAC technician for some time now. I wouldnt write this if I wasnt positive on what I am sharing with you. The water that comes from the side of your A/C system is made by the humidity in your home that the air conditioner does not absorb, so the collection of water actually apears from the humdity in the air. The water is very corrosive HYDRO-CHLORIC ACID!!! I hope that you do not water your plants with this. It is definantly non-potable water. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Condensated water is hydro-chloric acid?
 
JonnyBtreed

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
sagensour said:
I am a HVAC technician for some time now. I wouldnt speak if I wasnt positive on what I am sharing with you. The water that comes from the side of your A/C is made by the humidity in your home that the air conditioner does not absorb, so the collection of water actually apears from thin air. The water is actually HYDRO-CHLORIC ACID!!! I hope you dont water your plants with that because it it definantly not potable water. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
thats funny I always thought it was pure, clean water created by condensation like my cold pipes in my house. Since it has a ppm of 007 and a pH of 6.9 :roll: funny I would of thought hydrochloric acid would burn my hands as well.... HUH

And I'm no chemisty major but how does hydrochloric acid form as condensation on my pipes without chloride and hydrogen floating around my house???
 
Tolstoyfan

Tolstoyfan

Member
i have a similar problem. i have a 52 inchx2 ft space (8ft in hight) w/1000w hps flowering 7 whiteberry 12' plants. my lamp is contained within a 6 inch tube thats connected to a blower. still, the temp is way too hot. i tried making my own airconditioner by using an ice-chest, tubing, a pump, and copper tubing to fit the 6inch diameter of the duct but the temp is still really high. should i just open the light proof room during the 12 hours or light and seal it close every night? i think that's what it's going to come down to. this way my home airconditioner will help the temp. what do you all think?
 
homer28110

homer28110

Member
Yeah, sagensour's doesn't make too much sense. Air made from water isn't hydro-chloric acid. Chemistry must not have been a necessary class to graduate from HVAC technician school.
 
hwy420

hwy420

Well-Known Member
JonnyBtreed said:
thats funny I always thought it was pure, clean water created by condensation like my cold pipes in my house. Since it has a ppm of 007 and a pH of 6.9 :roll: funny I would of thought hydrochloric acid would burn my hands as well.... HUH

And I'm no chemisty major but how does hydrochloric acid form as condensation on my pipes without chloride and hydrogen floating around my house???
Click to expand...
There is PVC pipe dripping on the side of my house when my HVAC units are running, and it drains between my neighbors yard, everything seems to be growing ok. But i'm gonna stick to the expert with his fancy terminology.
 
hwy420

hwy420

Well-Known Member
Tolstoyfan said:
i have a similar problem. i have a 3x2 ft space (8ft in hight) w/1000w hps flowering 7 whiteberry 12' plants. my lamp is contained within a 6 inch tube thats connected to a blower. still, the temp is way too hot. i tried making my own airconditioner by using an ice-chest, tubing, a pump, and copper tubing to fit the 6inch diameter of the duct but the temp is still really high. should i just open the light proof room during the 12 hours or light and seal it close every night? i think that's what it's going to come down to. this way my home airconditioner will help the temp. what do you all think?
Click to expand...
I keep my closet door open all the time and keep my scrubber & blower unconnected to an exhaust line, and it scrubbs the air inside, and stays cool.
 
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exarmy

Active Member
good info every one. Thanks. Yes co2 is in my future since I have a tank and regulator for free, but i have no way the ability to buy the ppm counter so I dont know how much to use. or the time settings. I thought about makeing this a closed system. And really want to but im waiting on the wifey to give me permision to buy it.

Another question. Since im useing almost all the 30amps from the socket and I have a 240 where the dryer hooks up, can I get an adaptor to make that 2 outlets instead of one. Like you can with the 115v outlets?
 
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exarmy

Active Member
today was fairly cool and the lights came on at 9pm central and the temp is holding at 87 about 1,5 ft from the canopy? 2hrs later
 
JonnyBtreed

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
exarmy said:
good info every one. Thanks. Yes co2 is in my future since I have a tank and regulator for free, but i have no way the ability to buy the ppm counter so I dont know how much to use. or the time settings. I thought about makeing this a closed system. And really want to but im waiting on the wifey to give me permision to buy it.

Another question. Since im useing almost all the 30amps from the socket and I have a 240 where the dryer hooks up, can I get an adaptor to make that 2 outlets instead of one. Like you can with the 115v outlets?
Click to expand...
be very careful with the 240v sockets, my buddy started a fire like that. Had two dryers hooked up to one... and he was an electrician apprentice :roll:
 
growlegal

growlegal

New Member
I gotta call bullship on this one, maybe some type of chiller (low Pressure) but not the typical window /portable or even residential unit.
I was a hvac contractor after I was a tech for twenty years.
I have drank the water out of one of those drains just messing with rookies.
Does anybody here have a wire stretcher, I can borrow.:shock:
 
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