All the Young Dudes Cannabis Pollen and Use

mcone

Active Member
wish I would've kept this JH male..
kicking myself always poping beans looking for the next one.

JH_purple_male.jpg
 

ebflow

New Member
Hey Sub, was wondering about how long it takes for males to drop pollen once they shows their preflowers(from the day they show sex)? Been searching for the info but thought i would ask an expert. Thanks for all the hard work and great information throught the years. just wondering if their is a window of time i have before i need to remove them. planning on using the pollen but want to selectively pollinate.
 

chef c

Well-Known Member
if u throw him into flower its about 10-14 days till full bloom, like a female u can veg him forever wo flowering him causing the release of pollen. try this: take a cutting, put it in a cup of h20, in a spot where the cutting can flower and see before u start making your calculations. be brave and just go for it! im aboutta find out the same thing w a space bomb male and a chernobyl male as well. u could save it too... add about 5x the amount of flour to the pollen, dry in a dark warm place in your friends house, then into a black film cannister and in to the fridge, up to six weeks, some say freezer... uh... ok. 6 mo? here the boys are and also them as babies. first pic is left: chernobyl right: Space bomb. baby pics are chernobyl followed by space bombk 006.jpgk 009.jpg.k 010.jpg
 

Barrelhse

Well-Known Member
More Tricks

Back to the male we have used for the breeding party. I will bend his branches over and cover them with a V spaded hanging trap I make from wax paper. This is the process I will get Jill to shoot here in about 3 weeks and add to the thread. One thing to watch out for is the male flowers they contain water and must be removed from pollen. I find the hanging traps I make can be shaken and the flowers being heavy fall to the corners and can be removed from the pile.

This next trick comes to us from Pistils and it worked great I am going to add in to the process. Collecting pollen is a bit like milking a gnat, when you manually roll a pod and it falls it may be a million grains but its is barley visible to the eye it also tends to stick to the wax paper but the solution is to mix in some dry flour. I used a ratio of about 5 to 1 and ended up with a yellow looking mix that resembled cake batter. I allowed the flour to dry well and microwaving wouldn’t be bad idea to remove any moisture that might remain in the flour.

The male Cannabis plant is amazing in its own right and in the game of creating hybrids a male known for his attributes can be worth a lot more than the most elite female cutting.
Excellent thread, thank you. I'm growing Pick & Mix singles and have a few TGA males in the mix.
One thought, and I may be wrong, but cornstarch would be less likely to mildew than flour.
 
Hey Sub... Being a Breeder your probably a good person to ask, as I Can't seem to find definitive answers on....

I Have a Male Rosebud in a pack of seeds so far and It was a really Early Identifier, So I Figured I'd Keep the Male in Veg for some time to Come so i can test some breeding later on... Problem is, as Of yesterday it Opened Up Full Flowers... Being only 4 weeks old from seed and Being under 18/6 cycle - Found it Bizarre Considering its a Regular strain and not Auto-flower... I Found One Small Sentence in a big article about breeding saying that some Males sometimes just autoflower, But other than That was it No Detail or actual confirmations of the sort.....

Yourself Having gone through many selections of males to find your best. Have you ever seen This growth in a regular indica/sativa strain.

also Being The first time dealing with males and Pollen I Read that it was Bright yellow/orange... but the pollen released from the open flowers is white.? Is Something Wrong here......

and Could these Traits potentially be passed on to another strain or a female of the same strain (Through Multiple Pollinations) without having used a Ruderalis Strain?

I've Found alot of useful info including your post on Breeding But this Unique Situation I'm having difficulty finding.
 

boneheadbob

Well-Known Member
Woah!
Its raining pollen. Those pistels all want some of that funky stuff

High times is famous for its amazing pictures of Cannabis Flowers of mostly the female species. Cannabis is a dioecious plant, which means that the male and female flowers develop on separate plants, although monoecious examples with both sexes on one plant are found. Sibling crosses draw genetic traits from both the mother and father plant, the male plays just as important a role as the female does but its rare to see male cannabis plants in full bloom and pollen collection and use is almost a mythical craft. I will do my best in this article to shed some light on the ways pollen is collected and dispersed.

Before we talk about collecting pollen let’s talk about staggering. This is a trick I learned by trial and error that allows us to get the maximum number of seeds per plant. This doesn’t apply to those just working with a branch or two.
When pollinating a mother plant for seed I will start her into 12/12 a full 7 days before I move the male into budding room. Keeping in mind that each strain is going to be a bit different on time frame but this 7 day rule has worked very well for us. Once the male is flowering well the females will be entering a window around day 21-24. Most Hybrids I work with are done in less than 9 weeks so 3 weeks in is good place to start. You can pollinate up to day 30 but you stand a good chance of the seeds never getting mature so I find each strain perfect window. Apollo-13 is closer to 21 days and Jacks Cleaner is better at say 26 or so.
 

wheezer

Well-Known Member
Good read! I appreciate the info sharing, it really makes my decisions easier, as most seem to be good common plant sense to me.But it's really nice to see an established breeders ideas, to see if my common sense is correct haha. Thanks for all your work Sub, your my hero!!
 

wheezer

Well-Known Member
BTW, I'm working with an AO male that is simply amazing!! He gives the offspring his flavior and smell, but across the board so far the babies have had the mommies shape, structure, yield and so forth. I'll be putting up some pics of the crosses soon, I have a AOx Jack x TW that's amazing along with an AO x Rommy thatr's crazy too.
 

tardis

Well-Known Member
Great info! I'm new to slightly seeding my plants. I know it decreases yield but I don't care because its all for me personally. Plus it helps that seeded bud by me on purpose shows i'm not trying to sell this stuff. Right now I got 2 crazy train and 3 flavs seedlings i'm thinking of crossing for my own medicine. I love the flav, but never grew Qrazy Train before. Anyone got any tips if this is going to be a good or bad idea with a QrazyTrain X Flav? Would the Flav high be too distracting from the QrazyTrain Stone? Anyone want to tell me if and why this is a bad idea because in my head i'm thinking this might be a good mix to learn breeding properly with.
 

onthedl0008

Well-Known Member
This is an awesome thread really. Just read all the posts I'm gonna copy and paste this for future use.
6 males in 30 years wow!
Sub what's ur take on this situation?
I grew out a male. First time only to make beans so I didn't have to buy more.
Anyway long story short. The male I got did have real good clusters actually. Was producing like crazy. The fans where even frosty.
Soon as the fingers started popping open the thing started throwing pistils which turned into crazy nugg sites.
The plant literally switched sex one day it was a male and literally the next day it started budding until I killed it.
Peeps say that's how they make femmed seeds. I've been getting about an 70-80 percent male to female ratio out of about 250-300 beans I've popped just like I always have so my beans where not affected in that way.
I've heard this and that like it wouldn't be a good thing to breed with the beans and I've heard and read different articles stateing that its cool to make beans with TRUE hermies I just wanted the opinion of a real experienced breeder like such as yourself.
Like I said I haven't had any problems in the beans in F1 form. But should I expect problems from offspring down the road?
 

poplars

Well-Known Member
so according to this thread, after you wipe a bud with pollen, it's pretty much instantly pollinated and you can wash off the excess pollen at this point?

also, if you have pollen dried and stored in the freezer without a silica gel pack, how long in your experience has such pollen stayed good? thanks.
 

wheezer

Well-Known Member
so according to this thread, after you wipe a bud with pollen, it's pretty much instantly pollinated and you can wash off the excess pollen at this point?

also, if you have pollen dried and stored in the freezer without a silica gel pack, how long in your experience has such pollen stayed good? thanks.
I want to hear the answer to this too. I have a bunch of pollen I pulled from some plants, and I have it in pill bottles for now, so it could breath a little. Not sure how to stire it for long periods of time. I know it'll keep in a pill bottle for quite awhile, if it stays dry, but not forever .
 

subcool

Well-Known Member
All this information is spelled out in detail in Marijuana Botany by Robert Clark
If you guys really have questions about how the science of the plant works its a must read. I have read it through 1/2 dozen times now.

Biology of Pollination

Pollination is the event of pollen landing on a stigmatic surface such as the pistil, and fertilization is the union of the staminate chromosomes from the pollen with the pistillate chromosomes from the ovule.

Pollination begins with dehiscence (release of pollen) from staminate flowers. Millions of pollen grains float through the air on light breezes, and many land on the stigmatic surfaces of nearby pistillate plants. If the pistil is ripe, the pollen grain will germinate and send out a long pollen tube much as a seed pushes out a root. The tube contains a haploid (in) generative nucleus and grows downward toward the ovule at the base of the pistils. When the pollen tube reaches the ovule, the staminate haploid nucleus fuses with the pistillate haploid nucleus and the diploid condition is restored. Germination of the pollen grain occurs 15 to 20 minutes after contact with the stigmatic surface (pistil); fertilization may take up to two days in cooler temperatures. Soon after fertilization, the pistils wither away as the ovule and surrounding calyx begin to swell. If the plant is properly watered, seed will form and sexual reproduction is complete. It is crucial that no part of the cycle be interrupted or viable seed will not form. If the pollen is subjected to extremes of temperature, humidity, or moisture, it will fail to germinate, the pollen tube will die prior to fertilization, or the embryo will be unable to develop into a mature seed. Techniques for successful pollination have been designed with all these criteria in mind.

We have not been successful at storing pollen in multiple attemps.
We believe tiny particles of green plant matter stay behind adding moisture and ruining the pollen.

Sub
 

poplars

Well-Known Member
All this information is spelled out in detail in Marijuana Botany by Robert Clark
If you guys really have questions about how the science of the plant works its a must read. I have read it through 1/2 dozen times now.

Biology of Pollination

Pollination is the event of pollen landing on a stigmatic surface such as the pistil, and fertilization is the union of the staminate chromosomes from the pollen with the pistillate chromosomes from the ovule.

Pollination begins with dehiscence (release of pollen) from staminate flowers. Millions of pollen grains float through the air on light breezes, and many land on the stigmatic surfaces of nearby pistillate plants. If the pistil is ripe, the pollen grain will germinate and send out a long pollen tube much as a seed pushes out a root. The tube contains a haploid (in) generative nucleus and grows downward toward the ovule at the base of the pistils. When the pollen tube reaches the ovule, the staminate haploid nucleus fuses with the pistillate haploid nucleus and the diploid condition is restored. Germination of the pollen grain occurs 15 to 20 minutes after contact with the stigmatic surface (pistil); fertilization may take up to two days in cooler temperatures. Soon after fertilization, the pistils wither away as the ovule and surrounding calyx begin to swell. If the plant is properly watered, seed will form and sexual reproduction is complete. It is crucial that no part of the cycle be interrupted or viable seed will not form. If the pollen is subjected to extremes of temperature, humidity, or moisture, it will fail to germinate, the pollen tube will die prior to fertilization, or the embryo will be unable to develop into a mature seed. Techniques for successful pollination have been designed with all these criteria in mind.

We have not been successful at storing pollen in multiple attemps.
We believe tiny particles of green plant matter stay behind adding moisture and ruining the pollen.

Sub

thanks a billion man. I haven't been successful either and if you haven't then I'm just gonna keep doing what I'm doing, keep live males in one room and tap off the pollen when ready :) thanks again man
 

wheezer

Well-Known Member
hmmmmm ok Sub thanks a bunch from me too!! I havn't either also too been able to save any for any time at all. I did however, save some in a pill bottle at room temp in summer when humidity levels were real low, but that was it. I can't remember exactly how long it was, but it was a month or more.I had several batches at that time and only 2 out of like 5 were still viable pollen. I tried freezing it and that didn't work either.
I just have to keep cutting the balls off the males for now, while I have outdoor flowering to be safe I guess. haha. I get real nervous with that goin on. I have my males set-up in a camper I converted into a flower room, but am using to hold males right now, but I had some pollination (accidental) take place and am not sure how or where it happened exavtly. The males in thje camper were DUMPING pollen at the time, and it got out I guess, so I can't take that chance right now with flowering outdoor 50 ft. away. My breeding is on hold till winter I guess huh!?!?
 

Barrelhse

Well-Known Member
I've had some Jillybean and A.O. pollen that has kept for about 12 wks. I used it a couple of days ago and the pistils I hit seem to be shriveling.
It was totally dry, I sifted it through a very fine strainer before storing which may have removed the veg. matter. I folded it in Origami paper envelopes and put it in a screw-cap container with a bunch of silica gel packs from here and there. This is my only successful storage attempt, most cake up or mildew but these were dry- I'm still not pos. that they worked, but looks good. The container was not refrigerated, but kept in a cool, dark spot. I also applied it directly from my finger tip. I had touched the pollen to see if it was dry and got a lot on my finger so I lightly brushed it on a bud. It seemed to work so I kept going until I had hit the plants I chose with JB and AO.
OT, I've had some great results with a Caramelo (Lavender pheno) crossed with AO and with Vortex. Both very tasty, lavender smell, high yield, esp. AO mix. Just sprouted a few more mixes - Caramelo/Vortex x JTR, Querkle/AO x Jillybean, Kushberry x Vortex, Blue Fruit x Jillybean, 3D x AO, 3D x JB, Querkle x JB, and a Cheesequake female and a Chernobyl fem, both at 4 wks 12/12.
I've got more seeds now than I'll ever use, but I keep breeding anyway. Every new combination sounds so good- I just hit a Kali (Big Buddha) with some Subcool pollens and can't wait. The Kali is looking like a heavy yield with a lemon smell. I only bought it because they were out of Cheese and Blue Cheese and I wanted something from them when getting some singles. Anyway [ I'm smoking some Querkle x AO- very nice all around but makes me chatty] I would recommend The Kali from what I've seen at 5 wks veg, 30 days 12/12.
 
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