...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?


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    357

Raging Stalk

Active Member
That's why we want the LER number - it is basically at what lumen/w where all input electricty is converted to light. Or another way, none of the electricity is used to generate heat. LER is useful on the path to figuring out efficiency. You could actually figure out a similar efficiency by measuring the temperature change.

Lower CCT higher cri numbers usually have lower LER values which can be attributed to shifts in spectrum necessary to balance the white light.
 
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linky

Well-Known Member
I am curious, anyone know what the spectrum is of vero 29 gen 7's compared to cmh? Seems cmh has the best overall spectrum, how does the vero compare?

630 watt DE CMH

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Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
CMH has best spectrum but lacks the intensity needed to take full advantage of it. Hence why Hortilux is working on the Ceramic HPS...............
 

klx

Well-Known Member
I believe you are assuming efficiency as we determine it, as a photometric and not a radiometric measurement. When we determine luminous efficacy (LER) we basically convert it from how light intensity is perceived by us (humans) to the actual amount of light (photons being emitted).
So efficiency is almost just as useful as PPF, however both are still not the best measurement as certain wavelengths definitely drive photosynthesis better than others in the 400nm-700nm range.

Not the case, for example the difference in efficiency between a 4000K 80CRI 1212 and a
3000K 90CRI 1212(Tc50c/500ma) is only 2.5% even though the 4000k 80CRI is at 176 lm/W and 3000k 90CRI is at 141 lm/W (11% difference in lm/W)
Also a citizen 1212 3000K 80CRI is slightly more efficient than a 4000K 80CRI.
Yes I understand that. The point I was making is that more light in that range is better than more overall light. If you go back a couple of years on these boards you will see there was lots of argument about this. The first people to suggest using 90 cri were mocked.

You will still see plenty of people talking about chip x being 150l/w and chip y being only 130l/w so there is still confusion.
 

Raging Stalk

Active Member
Yes I understand that. The point I was making is that more light in that range is better than more overall light. If you go back a couple of years on these boards you will see there was lots of argument about this. The first people to suggest using 90 cri were mocked.

You will still see plenty of people talking about chip x being 150l/w and chip y being only 130l/w so there is still confusion.

Only should be used as an indicator of efficiency. That is why LER is most important since it is a weighted factor. eg. 3000k 80cri being 322 and 90cri being 272.

I still think something else is off in regards to how people are determining efficiency. There just isn't that much heat generated by under-driven cobs. Maybe it would be more accurate to determine efficiency based on the heat generated by the chip at a constant current since that might be easier to measure.
 
Vero 3k 80CRI vs 3000k 90CRI vs 3.5k 90CRI would be a nice comparison.

There is no spectrum of the 3500k 90CRI, but the red part should be nearly the same as the 3k,
(black body with 3500k has its wavelength peak at 800nm)
only the blue peak should be a bit higher and wider.

Could be a good all-round option? Anyone use these ?
 
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linky

Well-Known Member
I ordered 18 vero 29 se 3500k 80 cri cobs (~38 volt) and 6 hlg 240 2100b drivers. I plan to build 2 9 cob fixtures over 4 x 4 trays running them at 75 watts each. Anyone else run this config? I have a few 12 cob 3590 fixtures running at 1400 mah (50 watts each) and it does really well.. I am curious if this 9 cob setup will be as good or hopefully better than that.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Only should be used as an indicator of efficiency. That is why LER is most important since it is a weighted factor. eg. 3000k 80cri being 322 and 90cri being 272.

I still think something else is off in regards to how people are determining efficiency. There just isn't that much heat generated by under-driven cobs. Maybe it would be more accurate to determine efficiency based on the heat generated by the chip at a constant current since that might be easier to measure.
Where does the 272 figure come from and it's the 30G spectrum? Not doubting you, but I'd like to get ahold of the SPD chart to digitize myself.
 

Raging Stalk

Active Member
Where does the 272 figure come from and it's the 30G spectrum? Not doubting you, but I'd like to get ahold of the SPD chart to digitize myself.

I found it in a post somewhere and I can't remember where exactly. Come to think of it I thought it was you.

Everyone wants that nugget of info. I think for growing, these Veros 3000k g7s have something special to them, especially the higher cri.

Guess we could ask Bridgelux directly through their customer service contact on the web site. Might be worth a shot.
 
I would suggest 2x BXRC-35G10K0-C-73-SE (150W) and 4 BXRC-30G10K0-C-73-SE (320W)
3k has better flower performance, 3.5k better veg performance.
 

linky

Well-Known Member
I would suggest BXRC-35G10K0-C-73-SE or BXRC-30G10K0-C-73-SE.
3k has better flower performance, 3.5k better veg performance.
I ended up ordering 3500k for flower, I have a few cree 3590 fixtures in 3500k, figured I would want the same in vero's, not a good choice? I got D's also for ~38 volt version.. these all wrong? Should I return/exchange? I bought 6 hlg 240 2100b's to drive them (3 per driver).
 
For Flowering BXRC-30G10K0-C-73-SE is a huge improvement over the 3.5k D Version. You should return. The D Version is the worst of the Veros. :D
 
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