Ambes first indoor grow Girlscout cookie & 6 tester Auto hybrids NLxBB in a 5x5x84

papapayne

Well-Known Member
Dont kill the crop just yet. You can fight them off long enough to get through flower, then can do through and bleach after you harvest.

For flowering, you can get a pound of haberno peppers, chop them up nicely, and simmer on low heat for an hour or 2 with a few cups of water. Don't let it boil. Peppers have a ingredient that is deadly to mites and most insects. Simmer for 2 hours, let cool COMPLETELY COMPLETELY COMPLETELY cool. Put the water in a spray bottle, and spray the plants, making sure to get under the leaves, and in all new nodes. The baby mites especially hang out in the newly forming nodes and leaves. Spray the soil as well. You can do this all the way up to the last week of flowering.

Also, after you spray, you could also invest in some lady bugs. They won't completely destroy mites, but they will eat enough of them to keep you in control.

I am sure there are non organic ways to rid mites, but I don't use chemicals so IDK any info on those.

Another key to spider mites is heat. They LOVE the heat, and the higher the temps, the quicker they will breed and multiply. If you can, crank up and acs/fans. Moving air is their enemy to, and they will have much harder times infesting if there is a ton of airflow.

You can get through it, dont chop!
 

ambedexteras

Well-Known Member
thanks man. ill try this. so an lb of habanaeros and how many cups of water would give me a sufficient
amount of spray for about 6-8 week with 10 plants
 

papapayne

Well-Known Member
i looked through your pictures, and I cant tell from them but it doesn't look like you have the white dots yet. Check your leaves for little white dots, this is where they are feeding. Check on the leaf undersides as well. The little clearish white dots will be their eggs, and the tan/brown dots will be mites.
 

papapayne

Well-Known Member
thanks man. ill try this. so an lb of habanaeros and how many cups of water would give me a sufficient
amount of spray for about 6-8 week with 10 plants
You want to make it fresh each time. not store it. 1 lb of peppers to 3 cups of water will be a good batch. The longer you simmer it the more concentrated/toxic to mites it will be, but the less water you will have so will cover a smaller area
 

papapayne

Well-Known Member
Another key to making it more toxic, but is much bigger a pain in the ass, is if you cut the seeds up from the peppers to. The seeds contain the most % of the toxin, so if you cut them up will have stronger spray. Be warned though....this shit is spicy. You definitely don't wanna put your face near the pot when simmering and you dont wanna breath in the fumes or the spray. Think...pepper spray on crack. lol.
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
No! Use this as a first chance to learn how to fight the borg.

Remind me of where you are at in your flowering cycle.

WhoDat pointed out a great source for a combination of three
different predator mites. That would be a good non-poison method
of fighting back. ....but they will need a couple of weeks to spread
out and kill all the enemy.

Just a thought. I am sorry to hear of your difficulty.

JD
 

ambedexteras

Well-Known Member
my autos are 2-3 weeks into flowering and my holly wood kushes are day like 35 no flowering. bought to
be flipped tho.

gonna try and make the pepper stuff asap. simmer for an hr or 2 without boiling tho right?
sounds easy just time consuming. but ill do it lol
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
Good luck bro. You need help with anything hit me up. Going outside to put in the radiator i was supposed to do yesterday.
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
Check out:
=============================================

[SIZE=+1] Most Popular Control:
Spider Mite Predators
[/SIZE]

Spider Mite Predators not only feed on Spider Mites and their eggs, they also breed twice as fast! Each Spider Mite Predator sucks the juice out of about 5 Spider Mites a day, or 20 of their eggs. Used as directed, predators should noticeably begin to gain control within 4 weeks, and then continue until the Spider Mites are nearly or completely wiped out. Predators disappear when the Spider Mites are gone.

[SIZE=+1] Most Effective Control:
Triple Threat!
[/SIZE]
Use our mix of all 3 species to cover a wider range of growing conditions.
=============================================

The thing is that you kinda need food for them...an infestation...to use them.
This is another cool thing about nematodes, that they will just live in your soil.

Good luck,

JD

P.S. Again, credit to WhoDat for the link.
 

papapayne

Well-Known Member
Yea one day I am gonna have to look into predator mites, I regularly battle mites as I think most people do from time to time. Its very common for me anyway to see mites on clones I purchase. Also...any plant that goes outside and then comes back inside is pretty much always gonna start a mite issue.
 

ambedexteras

Well-Known Member
Thanks JD. thats a pretty sound solution. $11 forr 100 predator mites but $27 to ship lol
gonna see if my local garden nursery thing has the mites there so i dont have to ship.
if not gonna to the habenero and see whats good.
 

papapayne

Well-Known Member
I have looked everywhere local to me for predator mites and never found them. U can find lady bugs an praying mantis pretty easy I have tried lady bugs but they seem to love suicide by hps plus they don't really go crazy for mites they more like aphids.


Also I don't know if I said this but if u do pepper spray make sure to do it when the lights are off. Don't wanna have them under hps they will burn
 

papapayne

Well-Known Member
Also, you should do te peppers in the mean time. It takes the mites a few weeks to established and in the mean time your spider mites can have destroyed your crop and completely infested your grow room carpets walls etc
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
If that necrosis is not from a nute burn, then yeah...that
might be bug damage. You will just have to look closely
at the underside of those remaining and damaged leaves.

BTW: I had not gotten bugs from that source...$27 is a tad
steep, but these are products for which one must expect to
pay for 1 or 2 day air shipping. For live things nothing else
is going to survive the trip.

A local source would really rock.

JD

P.S. If you want nematodes, then there is actually a brand
available from Home Depot. Perhaps they can ship to a local
store for free....though I doubt it, as they could not handle
the logistics of keeping things alive for pickup. In any case,
they are called "The Ladies In Red". (love the name)
 

papapayne

Well-Known Member
That doesn't look like mite damage to me. That looks more like a PH imbalance, severe nute burn, and stress. You generally don't see browning like that from mites unless they are full on infested to the max, and if you were that infested, you would have webs all over your plants and thousands of white dots on the plant.

Do you have a ph meter? If so test your soil PH and run a gallon of water thru the pot and test the run off. Someone else can chime in, but I don't think mites are your problem
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
If that necrosis is not from a nute burn, then yeah...that
might be bug damage. You will just have to look closely
at the underside of those remaining and damaged leaves.

BTW: I had not gotten bugs from that source...$27 is a tad
steep, but these are products for which one must expect to
pay for 1 or 2 day air shipping. For live things nothing else
is going to survive the trip.

A local source would really rock.

JD

P.S. If you want nematodes, then there is actually a brand
available from Home Depot. Perhaps they can ship to a local
store for free....though I doubt it, as they could not handle
the logistics of keeping things alive for pickup. In any case,
they are called "The Ladies In Red". (love the name)
Hey, do these work for leaves and soil? or just the soil?
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
Soil!

Thanks. Should have made that clear.

They are just one bug solution that has a decent shipping price.
(or so I thought)

Nematodes are great at controlling fungus gnats though as
they eat the gnat's larvae.

I have not found a local source for any bug...but there must be'
one, as there are so many growers in So Cal.

Take care,

JD

P.S. I agree Papa...that looks like late stage burn of some sort.
(the bottom of them will settle the matter)
 
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