Another Cree CXB3590 DIY thread

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
If your running a good size op the Veg + Bloom is expensive compared to Jack's. Veg + Bloom is a one part nutrient that you can run through the whole cycle. I love it in coco and flowers burn and taste clean. For me my garden is happier with v + b then other things I have run. http://www.hydroponic-research.com
I run a dry nutrient system similar to Jacks. I'm pretty happy with it.
 

mc130p

Well-Known Member
have you guys ever tried that 'hd' formula on the site? also, how well does it dissolve?
 

PerroVerde

Well-Known Member
I haven't run the HD just the Dirty and RO versions. I did get the Life+ and Size+ to experiment with. V+B dissolves well and quickly unlike maxibloom.

Ttystikk are you mixing your own salts or is it a custom mix?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I haven't run the HD just the Dirty and RO versions. I did get the Life+ and Size+ to experiment with. V+B dissolves well and quickly unlike maxibloom.

Ttystikk are you mixing your own salts or is it a custom mix?
Hydro-gardens.com

1. 'hi K' hydroponic mix, 5-11-26 plus micros. It has on average fifty percent more micronutrients in it as Jacks does, with no dyes and fewer impurities.

2. Yara Liva brand calcium nitrate.

3. MKP, aka monopotassium phosphate.

4. Epsom salt.

I use nothing else, period. It's between 95 and 99% cheaper than water bottles at the hydro store.
 

Meinolf

Well-Known Member
Wow, didn't expect your feeding to be so low. I am using bottom-fed coco airpots with ~1100-1300ppm FloraNova under ~1000 PPFD and they look very similar (DNA Super Lemon OG). Ok, enough hijacking ;)
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
1 week of veg and she's more than ready for flower,need to take some clones off her tomorrow. Still haven't decided which light I'll use with her.
You've got a couple of grows going, I'm losing track... when you say "1 week of veg..." -- do you mean a week since you put down the scrog? If that plant is one week old, I've got to check your nute list again.... ;)
 

Mean Gene

Well-Known Member
Amazing job showing what you can do with leds as always. You and supra inspire the rest of us. I have a question though aboutnyour setup... where did you mount your drivers at?
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Very nice, indeed. I like the frost development at this stage, too. I'm trying for good coverage at about 24" average distance, but my array is also pretty big. I've been wondering about lens choices but I think I'll just have to wait and watch.

I'm running over half again your nutrient strength. If you're on the ppm = EC x 500 scale, then you're running 1.0-1.2 EC. I run up to 2.0 under 860W CDM light, I'm wondering if bumping your feed might be beneficial under more intense light. Or, if the reverse is true, since I'm running less than 500 PPfd at the moment.
Personally i think when dealing with ppm or Feeding there is a lot more then just having optimum lighting . for each 10 degree rise the plants metabolic rate doubles this means more nutrients and water is needed not at a high percentage if a person is growing in a cooler room with optimum lighting being that its colder the plant will not use as much nutrients ..
Hammering your plants or force feeding , with higher EC / PPM your just throwing your money away plants do not need lots just a good well balanced diet and they will Rock...
Years ago i used grow in the 74- 76 Degree area , since bumping up my temps to 88 degrees my growth rates doubled ...
Maybe Captain will bump up temps to 85 - 86 lower nutrient levels and up the water and see if he notices a difference.. this is where i think we All can see better THC levels plant growth and better GPW .. there is no Denying them plants grown near the Equator just destroy there Northern sisters .. in yields and THC and its pretty hot temps :)
 

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
You've got a couple of grows going, I'm losing track... when you say "1 week of veg..." -- do you mean a week since you put down the scrog? If that plant is one week old, I've got to check your nute list again.... ;)
Yea,1 week of growth since setting the screen.

Amazing job showing what you can do with leds as always. You and supra inspire the rest of us. I have a question though aboutnyour setup... where did you mount your drivers at?
Thanks,I like to keep temps down so I mount the drivers on a board and have them outside the tent.

Personally i think when dealing with ppm or Feeding there is a lot more then just having optimum lighting . for each 10 degree rise the plants metabolic rate doubles this means more nutrients and water is needed not at a high percentage if a person is growing in a cooler room with optimum lighting being that its colder the plant will not use as much nutrients ..
Hammering your plants or force feeding , with higher EC / PPM your just throwing your money away plants do not need lots just a good well balanced diet and they will Rock...
Years ago i used grow in the 74- 76 Degree area , since bumping up my temps to 88 degrees my growth rates doubled ...
Maybe Captain will bump up temps to 85 - 86 lower nutrient levels and up the water and see if he notices a difference.. this is where i think we All can see better THC levels plant growth and better GPW .. there is no Denying them plants grown near the Equator just destroy there Northern sisters .. in yields and THC and its pretty hot temps :)
I like to keep my temps 80 or less at the canopy. The strains I grow have quite a broad Cannabinoid and Terpene profile and I believe the lower temps help keep them,especially the Terpenes. Yes you can raise temps and even add CO2 and raise them more to increase transpiration to increase yield but I think you sacrifice quality to do so. If you try to force feed a plant you can end up with problems,at 550 ppm GG#4 gets what she needs and can give me in the 2 GPW range. In heavy flower she can drink 1 1/2 gals or more a day with my lower temps. I suspect I could feed her less and if I feed her any higher she gets burnt leaf tips. Because of the wick nature of my set up I get a build up of excess nutes in the soil sleeve. When it's time to flush if I were to water from the top my ppms in the res would jump probably 4 times the ppm levels or more. That's why when I flush I'll put 3 gals from the top and pump the res dry then fill the res with RO water and give it only RO water till the end.
 

Mean Gene

Well-Known Member
Personally i think when dealing with ppm or Feeding there is a lot more then just having optimum lighting . for each 10 degree rise the plants metabolic rate doubles this means more nutrients and water is needed not at a high percentage if a person is growing in a cooler room with optimum lighting being that its colder the plant will not use as much nutrients ..
Hammering your plants or force feeding , with higher EC / PPM your just throwing your money away plants do not need lots just a good well balanced diet and they will Rock...
Years ago i used grow in the 74- 76 Degree area , since bumping up my temps to 88 degrees my growth rates doubled ...
Maybe Captain will bump up temps to 85 - 86 lower nutrient levels and up the water and see if he notices a difference.. this is where i think we All can see better THC levels plant growth and better GPW .. there is no Denying them plants grown near the Equator just destroy there Northern sisters .. in yields and THC and its pretty hot temps :)
Here i was thinking the sun at the equator was behind it all. Do you have a link to something backing up the higher temp better growth theory? I was under the impression the root temperature was key also.
 

a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
Here i was thinking the sun at the equator was behind it all. Do you have a link to something backing up the higher temp better growth theory? I was under the impression the root temperature was key also.
Think he said higher temps more food.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure increasing your ppms is necessary when running higher temps but I don't have any experience with it. Seems like by increasing your transpiration your plant naturally takes in more nutes.
That's not something you want to maximize, because that just means the plant is trying to protect itself from low RH. At higher temps, higher RH helps the plant by allowing it to transpire less water, thus benefiting from higher EC. Also, it's helpful to run the EC slightly stronger than the balance point, in order to better manage both EC and pH. Finally, different light spectra and varying light intensities both impact ideal nutrient strength. Plants under HPS don't want as high a solution strength as those under CDM, IME.
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
Yes captain you are correct but adding more water is key as the plant will drink more then usual so lowering nutrient content couple hundred ppm to combat the plant from over dosing but this is where VPD is key in the environment you get everything dialed in and holy crap growth batman easily double here 10 day old clones that were 3" tall when i put them in veg room

meangene think of it this way as heat increases chemical reactions proceed faster Temperature effectively acts as the plant’s throttle. The hotter the plant gets, the faster it grows, to a point at which it STOPS growing because one or more related systems can’t keep up. The rule of thumb is that plant growth doubles for every 10 degrees Fahrenheit (10f) increase in temperature, if all other factors are optimum. (http://www.sjsu.edu/faculty/watkins/CO2plants.htm)This point at which plant growth stops is determined by a complex relationship of Temperature, CO2, and Water transpiration.
 

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