At the end of my rope; pH and nutrient issues.

GR0WL0 said:

I was considering this option,I just don't really have room to keep upsizing. It's already in a 15 gallon pot I think...but I will continue to explore all avenues to solving this issue, including this one.



I guess I hadn't really considered I wasn't feeding them enough, it is a valid theory. I just think that if it was a nutrient availability issue, the plant would have shown signs long ago. This coupled with the fact that I haven't lessened the amount of nutrient it has been getting leads me to assume it could be an issue with a low soil pH locking out some nutrients from the plant.

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Soil ph bla bla bla. In my experience "your ph is off", is code for, "i have no idea whats wrong but i figure ill say something". Locking out nutrients? Ya right, sure,
Ive been cruising plant problems for quite a while and theres a pretty steadfast rule, pale or yellowing plants = deficiancies, dark green clawing burnt tips = over fertilization. You are showing no signs of claw, burnt tips, or any dark green, so personally id hammer everything into her i could think of. Macros, micros, mycorrhizae, sugar, calmag, hell toss the whole kitchen sink in there and see what happens, because my prediction is that the whole plant yellows out in early flower from how its looking.
Id way rather get to the point of showing one symptom of over feeding and say i tried something, rather than watching it all fall apart while trying nothing but silly things like chasing ph, zinc, and mag.

Alienwidow said:

Soil ph bla bla bla. In my experience "your ph is off", is code for, "i have no idea whats wrong but i figure ill say something". Locking out nutrients? Ya right, sure,
Ive been cruising plant problems for quite a while and theres a pretty steadfast rule, pale or yellowing plants = deficiancies, dark green clawing burnt tips = over fertilization. You are showing no signs of claw, burnt tips, or any dark green, so personally id hammer everything into her i could think of. Macros, micros, mycorrhizae, sugar, calmag, hell toss the whole kitchen sink in there and see what happens, because my prediction is that the whole plant yellows out in early flower from how its looking.
Id way rather get to the point of showing one symptom of over feeding and say i tried something, rather than watching it all fall apart while trying nothing but silly things like chasing ph, zinc, and mag.

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I understand, but I feel as though you are ignoring the fact that my soil pH IS too low. I have run tests that conclude this, it isn't me just taking a guess. If you look at charts for nutrient availability at different pH designations you can clearly see there is a very good reason you keep your marijuana plant growing medium at a specific pH, it simply cannot suck up enough of its food outside of that range. Are you simply discounting nutrient lockout as a theory entirely? Also, in my last post I stated that I haven't changed any variable in my feeding of the plant, which includes plenty of every macro, micro, mycorrhizae, molasses, and even natural growth hormones like tricantinol. This isn't me disregarding your input, I seriously appreciate it and will pursue each available option. It just seems like you are leaving out parts of the story that are critical to understanding how my plant came to its current state and diagnosing it from a picture and not taking a wholistic approach in understanding its history. Regardless, it is most likely getting fed today its normal amount of nutrients. Also, do you think I should remove her from flowering? It has been in flower for 36 hours and one poster recommended taking it back to veg until resolving my issues.

GR0WL0 said:

I understand, but I feel as though you are ignoring the fact that my soil pH IS too low. I have run tests that conclude this, it isn't me just taking a guess. If you look at charts for nutrient availability at different pH designations you can clearly see there is a very good reason you keep your marijuana plant growing medium at a specific pH, it simply cannot suck up enough of its food outside of that range. Are you simply discounting nutrient lockout as a theory entirely? Also, in my last post I stated that I haven't changed any variable in my feeding of the plant, which includes plenty of every macro, micro, mycorrhizae, molasses, and even natural growth hormones like tricantinol. This isn't me disregarding your input, I seriously appreciate it and will pursue each available option. It just seems like you are leaving out parts of the story that are critical to understanding how my plant came to its current state and diagnosing it from a picture and not taking a wholistic approach in understanding its history. Regardless, it is most likely getting fed today its normal amount of nutrients. Also, do you think I should remove her from flowering? It has been in flower for 36 hours and one poster recommended taking it back to veg until resolving my issues.

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Well i was referring to people saying that ph is off. But in reality yes, i have almost no faith in nutrient availability charts. I think theyre all crap and just what GH uses to sell ph down. Ive run hydro at an 8 starting point and it would float to 10 in two weeks before rez change. According to ph charts those plants should have only been surviving off of nitrogen and magnesium! Everything else should have been locked out so essentially starving the plant. Well those plants looked way better than your plant and yeilded just fine and stayed green. You couldn't tell the ph was off. I read a book one time that showed an example of how ph really affects plant growth. It had a diagram of a bunch of trees all in a row. They started small (low ph) and in the middle (ph perfect) it was the biggest, then gradually went back to small (high ph). They didnt start dead, go to great and then back to dead again.
Impo ph is something to watch for, but it really doesnt have nearly as much consequence as most people would lead you to believe. Look at the agricultural industry. Do you think they ph millions of acres of soil? Hell no. They add a bunch of manure and till it in, then add synthetic fetilizer and get great results.
Theres also a pile of people on this site that will tell you that the ph of the soil changes when its wet and continues to change as it dries. Phing runoff is useless because itll just make you chase your tail because you cant change the ph of the soil, but you can sure mess up the plant by adding a ton of whacky ph water to it that its not used to.
Plants are tough and smart. Theyll grow in just about any conditions and theyll usually tell you exactly what they need just by looking at them. They also shed just the right leaves usually. Im sure youve noticed that flowering plants drop all the leaves lower to the ground, the ones in the center, and the ones that are shading buds first. Smart huh?
99 times out of a hundred its user error and not an internal plant problem thats making the plant do funny stuff. Usually feeding over or under, calmag, too much/little light, or over/under watering. Now all you have to do is figure out which category you fit into.

Sorry, but AlienWidow is all talk and doesn't have much of a clue what he spews. He thinks he does, but in reality, he doesn't. I've been a pot grower since 1987 and ran the countries 2nd largest organic farm (865 acres) for a number of years. I was trying to be more practical for you, and since you don't have the skills or equipment to figure it all out, my suggestion was a good first step. Look at my current Green Poison grow being documented on RIU, and then decide for yourself who knows more, who's more experienced, etc. So many people want to voice an opinion, but few really have the understanding to grow a healthy crop from beginning to end.

And for anyone to claim he has no faith in nute availability charts, shows how little he actually understands. Block him and you'll be a lot better off.

Whoa......what just....confused..Anyway GROWLO hope you find out the issue as I agree you have a large pot and root-bound issues should be nill.

Ok they look fine from the picture you sent. Now go to your local nursery and get a water meter and a PH tester, each one is around 15 dollars each and a must in soil. The water meter will show you f the soil is dry to drenched and the PH meter is a simple soil PH meter that will show you your PH. In soil your PH should be at 7.0 or neutral. If it is out o wack then get some ammonium sulfate(acid) or Dolomite(Alkaline) to adjust and it will take some time. If your roots are having issues then go online and get a product called Mycos, it is fungal and will help keep your soil in a living condition.