Back to the DIY work, looking for some advice and wondering about COBs

glennorch

Active Member
Hi guys,

After a long break in growing and forums due to my work and moving outside, I'm back in full effect. I want to give props and say thanks as well to all the growers and DIYers that have been contributing with tons of great information on Led growing in this forum. I think it's still the best resource for anyone looking to improve his Led skills and DIY advice. Been coming here for years and each time I'm still getting excited with all the skills and resources featured here!

I want to start growing soon but I want to make my own DIY led lights for a 1-1.2 sq m. grow-tent. I was going to get back to HID sodium lights because when I started experimenting with leds years ago, they were still super expensive for higher wattages and surfaces. But it seems that things have changed lately with all this white COBs. I understand that nowadays, most people have changed their approach towards all white spectrum with more potency and efficiency rather than using different deep red, reds, royal blue and bit of white. It makes sense to me, after all, HID spectrums aren't that good either but the plants seem to love the big amount of light they deliver. Without really caring of the possible lack of red and blue in the spectrum.

Shame that I still have lots of old nice Cree, Oslon and Luxeon leds at home that I planned to use in other DIY projects for a smaller tent. I may use them or try to sell them, as I've spent a big budget on highest bins available and I don't want to throw them into the bin. But it's discouraging to see how easy this COBs are for mounting and also how nice they seem to work.

So it's really possible to flower nicely with Warm White COBs only? Or combination of white and red/blue is still better to add weight and buds like it was in the past the combiation of HID and color leds? Do they lack penetration like the old 700mA and 1A leds used to do? Thus forcing the grower to adapt the techniques to get an even canopy and very close distances to make the most of this led lights.

How many watts could be nice for 1 or 1,2 sq meter tent? Something equivalent or better than 400-600W HID may work I guess. I will use just the same pannel both for vegetative and flowering probably but what really matters is that the spectrum and leds work like a charm for making nice and tight buds!

I'm wondering if the sativas I will grow will miss some more red and blue light. Especially the blue as I've read many times that it was great for delivering terpenes. Initially I was looking for the best sativa spectrum, one that may reduce the stretch and will have the best full spectrum for having a good cannabinoid and terpene development, over the production. But flowering in such bit tent seems unlikely and very messy with single color leds. Plus now I will be growing for seed production and medical stash for a local club so good production become also important somehow.

Anyway, thanks for the advice.

P.S: By the way, I still have at home a few unpackaged nice bins of this leds, but if white COBs are a better option nowadays (less hassle to mount them for someone not super skilled with electronics like me), I will try to sell them and get some cash back to start making my new lamps (they are all brand new and still in they MPCB metal blisters), as I will need higher potency this time for bigger space:

-660nm Oslon SSL
-625nm Red Cree XP-E2
-425nm Blue Luxeon ES
-2700k Cree XT-E
-3000k Oslon SSL
-4000K Cree XT-E
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
Figure you'll need 35-55 watts per square foot if you use good cobs like the CXA or vero series. The new CXB and (HE) vero series are even more efficient.

3000k and 4000k cobs seem to be working great for lots of people.

I wouldn't bother with anything else anymore.
 

glennorch

Active Member
Figure you'll need 35-55 watts per square foot if you use good cobs like the CXA or vero series. The new CXB and (HE) vero series are even more efficient.
Really? I was expecting that with the latest efficient COBs with about 300w should be more than enough for 1sq meter tent (3'x3'), where normally 400W HID are used with good results.
 
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bicit

Well-Known Member
I think 300w of either the CXB or the vero series would work wonderfully. I'm using 84w for a 3x2 for tomatoes with decent results. My entry to the solo cup comp draws 168w and is setup for a 3'x1.5' tent(37w/ft^2). So I guess you could wait and see.

Depending on how you want to set it up, you could probably get away with less power by diligently training and investing in adequate light coverage.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
It really depends how tall you plan your plants to be. Under 3 feet tall and 30-35W/sqft is good for vero/cxa low bins at high current. Cxb top bins at low current should work well with 25-30W/sqft.

For veg, you can get away with WAY less. we're talking 10-15W/sqft or less.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Really? I was expecting that with the latest efficient COBs with about 300w should be more than enough for 1sq meter tent (3'x3'), where normally 400W HID are used with good results.
The 400 HPS in a 3X3 would be about 33W/ft² or 11 PAR W/ft². If you ran a high efficiency LED at 35W/ft² you could get 15-16 PAR W/ft² and a better SPD on top of that. So it would be a huge boost in performance if you swapped 400W HPS with a 300W COB.

I forget who it was that pointed out to me, a 3X3 is 9ft² but 1 sq meter tent is 10.75ft².
 

glennorch

Active Member
Thanks for the responses... Height shouldn't be a problem though as I'm only growing SOG or SCROG to maximize results. Plants would be under 3 feet for sure anyway.

I'll try to figure out what to do with all the mono-leds I have if I decide to go with white COBs only. If I can't sell them maybe I'll buy a small lamp for vegetative grow (10-15W/sq ft).

Will warm white COBs benefit from additional blue and red leds or it's not worth the hassle?

Cheers.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I have been wondering the same thing, putting them in veg and running very soft, but COBs are so much better for that job also. I guess if you are being practical it makes sense to keep using what you already built, but I cant resist replacing them with COBs to see how much I can pack in before running into heat issues.
 

glennorch

Active Member
I have been wondering the same thing, putting them in veg and running very soft, but COBs are so much better for that job also. I guess if you are being practical it makes sense to keep using what you already built, but I cant resist replacing them with COBs to see how much I can pack in before running into heat issues.
Yeah same here, the think is that I woud love to try to use white COBs only and see what they can do alone! All this mono-color leds I have are still new and I'm not sure about using them or not. O have a small pannel apart fom those and I was planning to build another one but suddenly I've found lots of good reviews on white COBs.

Not sure about wich whites are going to work the best. Probably 2700-3000k could do do the trick but maybe 4000k with a bit more blue would be interesting as well and help plants to keep them shorter?

The point is that I was going to start a 400-600W HID indoor tent and maybe trying COBs instead could be better. :)
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the responses... Height shouldn't be a problem though as I'm only growing SOG or SCROG to maximize results. Plants would be under 3 feet for sure anyway.

I'll try to figure out what to do with all the mono-leds I have if I decide to go with white COBs only. If I can't sell them maybe I'll buy a small lamp for vegetative grow (10-15W/sq ft).

Will warm white COBs benefit from additional blue and red leds or it's not worth the hassle?

Cheers.
Just leave the monos on the side initially would be my suggestion. I would stay with the early suggestion of 3000k. I do think they benefit from a spectrum with more red especially in flowering.

The only monos i would add from your selection would be the 660nm. if your running 700ma or less you could just integrate a few into your cob string if there is extra voltage available.

I'd sell the rest as they have for the most part been surpassed by cobs.

The 425nm luxeon is a interesting led. Didn't know they made one with that nm. If your going to add monos i'd suggest keep it simple...just a few in key areas like near uva violet and 660nm red.
 

glennorch

Active Member
Cool man, thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I guess I can keep the Deep Blue and Deep Red to experiment a bit with them and try to sell the rest.

Which COB's you guys recommend? Vero or Crees? What's the best option at the moment? I will probably run them soft at 700mA to get maximum light, performance and durability. I'm a bit inclined towards the Veros because of the easy no soldering mounts.Is it possible to combine 4000k or 5000k with 3000k to get the best of both?

Before thinking on the Cobs I wanted to experiment also with some spectrums that I've been testing for some time and I've found them to work better than any others. For vegetative growth, I've found out that the optimal spectrum using small leds after trying and experimenting with a friend consist on:

-1 blue 430nm and 460 nm with a ratio 1/1
-red 625 and 660 nm with a ratio 1/1.5
-Neutral white for spectrum homogenisation.

This spectrum was tested in labs using tobacco plants, which have a similar behaviour. I would like to find an equivalent spectrum with the new COBs so I want to compare the curves and output before choosing one.

A friend of mine has been also researching with different light combinations and he also found an aditional spectrum that allows him to flower plants under 14h, so he can increase the production a bit while shortening the flowering time by taking advantage on the effects of 730nm far red lights and its relation with the phytochrome and the shade avoidance phenomena.

P:S: Is there a second hand thread here in the forum?
 
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glennorch

Active Member
Update with some info of the leds I have available for anyone looking for high quality leds for a smaller project, brand new and still in the package:

-Cree XP-E2 625nm, bin P3 (1A).
-Oslon SSL80 660nm, bin 3T (1A).
-Oslon SSL70 NW 4000K, bin 7p (1A).
-Cree XT-E 2700K, bin Q4 (1500mA).
-Cree XT-E 4000K, bin R4 (1500mA).
-Cree XT-E 5000K, bin R4 (1500mA).
-Philips Luxeon ES Royal Blue 450nm, bin N4R (1A).


 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Figure you'll need 35-55 watts per square foot if you use good cobs like the CXA or vero series. The new CXB and (HE) vero series are even more efficient.

3000k and 4000k cobs seem to be working great for lots of people.

I wouldn't bother with anything else anymore.
So, when you quote this, you are talking about emitter values or PAR watts, or flux density at a certain distance?
 
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