Cann
Well-Known Member
This was originally posted on grasscity by Microbeman, but I figure it deserves some play over here. 100% credit and props to Microbeman (www.microbeorganics.com). This is his story.
Anyone considering growing organically should read this - it will provide wisdom that is unspoken at the hydro store, or even on other parts of this forum. Pay attention folks...
Living Soil Container Growing
Background:
We grew in many fashions over the years, usually following the NPK dogma with high N during vegetation and the P onslaught during flower. This was both outdoors and in and was applied to various species/crops including hemp, hay mixes, vegetables and herbs. In the 80s we switched over to mostly organic for vegetables and most other outdoor crops but still believed in the whole NPK routine but used so called organic fertilizers instead.
In the late 80s I moved to my farm where I lived in the woods and I quieted my mind for a while and opened my eyes. I observed that there were large areas of healthy plants (nettles, clover, grasses, mullein, yarrow, etc. and trees) which grew back year after year as happy as can be, despite being grazed (in some cases) by wildlife and livestock. I began to ponder why this was occurring so easily while humans toiled with rototillers and fertilizers year after year to try to grow their gardens which were often plagued by disease right beside a pathogen free stand of wild plants.
Around the late mid to late 90s I began having very bad gut problems. I started studying how the gut works and came to the conclusion that through a course of antibiotics, I had destroyed all my healthy gut microbes which were responsible for digesting my food and preventing bad chemicals from crossing the blood-brain barrier. I began taking probiotics (& yogurt) and it dawned on me that this must be the way those plants were staying so healthy and how they were receiving nutrients. I began experimenting by fermenting yogurt with liquid fish and sugar and . I applied these concoctions to various plants in an endeavor to accentuate their vitality. My results were mixed.
When we got the Internet happening (satellite dish) I discovered that there was already a fairly well established consortia called EM being used horticulturally and by some internally as a probiotic. I ordered some immediately and fermented up a batch. I used it on some of our soil and was amazed by the results. I noted that EM fermentations worked wonders with compacted soil which refused to hold water. After applying periodically over 8 to 12 weeks the soil came to life as a spongy moisture holding aggregate. I made a few of my own EM fermentation recipes which were even better. I also fermented EM (60+ days) to ingest and over around three months cured my food intolerances. These forays into the microbial world instigated the purchase of microscopes and the establishment of a laboratory.
Needless to say I was introduced to aerated compost tea (ACT) and began a road of experimentation with different designs, sizes, pumps, recipes, etc. I spent myself into great debt purchasing various meters, microscope parts and building brewers ranging from 1200 gallons down to half a gallon. Through our experimentation I came to the rough conclusion that EM fermentations were effective as soil conditioners and worked well even in the absence of plants. Crop residue and dead roots were broken down rapidly. As a Yin to that Yang ACT was most effect only in the presence of plants as it supplies the functioning microbial consortia which feeds the roots of plants.
The Method Employed:
I exercised this philosophy on our outdoor and greenhouse raised beds, applying EM fermentations after harvest to help breakdown the old dead roots and lay down a base of microbes and/or applying it about 2 months to 2 weeks prior to planting. ACT was applied throughout the growing season via overhead irrigation. We also topdressed vermicompost in the Spring and occasionally applied fish hydrolysate. We had a great deal of success using this method and it was easier because we never dug up our soil again except for planting holes. It seemed that the soil just got better and better. A great bonus encountered from using ACT is that our powderymildew problems pretty much went away. (this could also be partly attributed to not using phosphorous anymore, or ). By 1998 we were growing entirely using uber organic or natural methods under contract as a nonprofit organization to provide medicinal cannabis to what was the largest dispensary in existence (I think).
[We were a little put off that we were lumped into the organic category along with other so-called organic growers using commercial bottled nutrients with the shiny word Organic on the label, applied to 8 inch pots. I tried to educate otherwise but was told they had scientists to describe what was organic oh well]
Indoors we had been growing cannabis in 5 gallon containers, mixing up the soil every planting and all that. I decided to try moving the outdoor system inside. We built bins from 2X6 (& 2X
which were approximately 36"x12"wide *x18" deep. They were built so they were sloped out at the front and could be stacked one atop another but there was still access to the soil for planting etc. In this way we could provide enough (I hoped) critical mass for the soil to become a living thing.
We stacked the bins about 5 feet high in a basic circle with an entry space and arranged three 1000 watt HPS lamps vertically in a central position evenly spaced to spread light from top to bottom of the stacked bins. The soil was mixed to be good indefinitely. Some batches were roughly 33% top soil, 33% vermicompost, 33% sphagnum peat moss, with perilite, rock phosphate, kelp meal, alfalfa meal and dolomite in minor amounts. Other batches were 50% peat and 50% vermicompost, etc. The bins were filled then drenched with diluted EM fermentation and allowed to sit for about two weeks prior to planting. *Glomus Intraradices (mycorrhizal) spores were coated on the roots of the rooted cuttings and placed into the transplant holes at planting time.
During the entire growing period ACT was applied periodically undiluted. Populations of Persimilis and Cucumeris and Lady Bugs were introduced to control mites, aphids and thrips. The plants were grown to approximately 8 to 10 inches tall then the lights were switched from 18 hour days to 12 to induce flowering. They finished at about 18 to 24 inches. The entire growing time was about 10 to 12 weeks.
After harvest red wriggler composting worms were dropped into the bins to devour the dead roots and leaves lying on the surface and to poo and aerate the soil. EM fermentations were applied sometimes while the worms were still in, sometimes after. It did not seem to make much difference. The worms were trapped out with mesh plastic traps laid on the surface filled with their favorite foods. Some remained in the bins but that didnt matter. At minimum two weeks after applying EM the planting took place again and immediately vermicompost was top dressed as well as fish hydrolysate about a week or two after planting.
This continued for 5 years without ever disturbing the soil except for planting holes. (one set of bins went 7 years) The populations of Persimilis and Cucumeris flourished along with resident Rove beetles, spiders, springtails, rollie pollies, millipedes, etc. The Rove beetles had come in from outdoors with the topsoil. They are fabulous generalist predators. They do occasionally bite but nothing serious. The Lady Bugs needed replacing but were hardly needed. Mushrooms grew and there was a mini-ecosystem established.
It only terminated because the authorities said our contract was not valid.
If I were to try a similar setup again, I would consider;
1/ planting companion plants such as clover in order to maintain living roots to keep up the microbial population in the rhizosphere and to possibly maintain endomycorrhizal fungi.
2/ providing a sloped bottom to a drain tube for each bin, collected centrally, to prevent drainage from upper bins into lower bins.
3/ working fermented plant extracts like nettles, yarrow, comfrey and horsetail ferns into the program
Anyone considering growing organically should read this - it will provide wisdom that is unspoken at the hydro store, or even on other parts of this forum. Pay attention folks...
Living Soil Container Growing
Background:
We grew in many fashions over the years, usually following the NPK dogma with high N during vegetation and the P onslaught during flower. This was both outdoors and in and was applied to various species/crops including hemp, hay mixes, vegetables and herbs. In the 80s we switched over to mostly organic for vegetables and most other outdoor crops but still believed in the whole NPK routine but used so called organic fertilizers instead.
In the late 80s I moved to my farm where I lived in the woods and I quieted my mind for a while and opened my eyes. I observed that there were large areas of healthy plants (nettles, clover, grasses, mullein, yarrow, etc. and trees) which grew back year after year as happy as can be, despite being grazed (in some cases) by wildlife and livestock. I began to ponder why this was occurring so easily while humans toiled with rototillers and fertilizers year after year to try to grow their gardens which were often plagued by disease right beside a pathogen free stand of wild plants.
Around the late mid to late 90s I began having very bad gut problems. I started studying how the gut works and came to the conclusion that through a course of antibiotics, I had destroyed all my healthy gut microbes which were responsible for digesting my food and preventing bad chemicals from crossing the blood-brain barrier. I began taking probiotics (& yogurt) and it dawned on me that this must be the way those plants were staying so healthy and how they were receiving nutrients. I began experimenting by fermenting yogurt with liquid fish and sugar and . I applied these concoctions to various plants in an endeavor to accentuate their vitality. My results were mixed.
When we got the Internet happening (satellite dish) I discovered that there was already a fairly well established consortia called EM being used horticulturally and by some internally as a probiotic. I ordered some immediately and fermented up a batch. I used it on some of our soil and was amazed by the results. I noted that EM fermentations worked wonders with compacted soil which refused to hold water. After applying periodically over 8 to 12 weeks the soil came to life as a spongy moisture holding aggregate. I made a few of my own EM fermentation recipes which were even better. I also fermented EM (60+ days) to ingest and over around three months cured my food intolerances. These forays into the microbial world instigated the purchase of microscopes and the establishment of a laboratory.
Needless to say I was introduced to aerated compost tea (ACT) and began a road of experimentation with different designs, sizes, pumps, recipes, etc. I spent myself into great debt purchasing various meters, microscope parts and building brewers ranging from 1200 gallons down to half a gallon. Through our experimentation I came to the rough conclusion that EM fermentations were effective as soil conditioners and worked well even in the absence of plants. Crop residue and dead roots were broken down rapidly. As a Yin to that Yang ACT was most effect only in the presence of plants as it supplies the functioning microbial consortia which feeds the roots of plants.
The Method Employed:
I exercised this philosophy on our outdoor and greenhouse raised beds, applying EM fermentations after harvest to help breakdown the old dead roots and lay down a base of microbes and/or applying it about 2 months to 2 weeks prior to planting. ACT was applied throughout the growing season via overhead irrigation. We also topdressed vermicompost in the Spring and occasionally applied fish hydrolysate. We had a great deal of success using this method and it was easier because we never dug up our soil again except for planting holes. It seemed that the soil just got better and better. A great bonus encountered from using ACT is that our powderymildew problems pretty much went away. (this could also be partly attributed to not using phosphorous anymore, or ). By 1998 we were growing entirely using uber organic or natural methods under contract as a nonprofit organization to provide medicinal cannabis to what was the largest dispensary in existence (I think).
[We were a little put off that we were lumped into the organic category along with other so-called organic growers using commercial bottled nutrients with the shiny word Organic on the label, applied to 8 inch pots. I tried to educate otherwise but was told they had scientists to describe what was organic oh well]
Indoors we had been growing cannabis in 5 gallon containers, mixing up the soil every planting and all that. I decided to try moving the outdoor system inside. We built bins from 2X6 (& 2X
which were approximately 36"x12"wide *x18" deep. They were built so they were sloped out at the front and could be stacked one atop another but there was still access to the soil for planting etc. In this way we could provide enough (I hoped) critical mass for the soil to become a living thing. We stacked the bins about 5 feet high in a basic circle with an entry space and arranged three 1000 watt HPS lamps vertically in a central position evenly spaced to spread light from top to bottom of the stacked bins. The soil was mixed to be good indefinitely. Some batches were roughly 33% top soil, 33% vermicompost, 33% sphagnum peat moss, with perilite, rock phosphate, kelp meal, alfalfa meal and dolomite in minor amounts. Other batches were 50% peat and 50% vermicompost, etc. The bins were filled then drenched with diluted EM fermentation and allowed to sit for about two weeks prior to planting. *Glomus Intraradices (mycorrhizal) spores were coated on the roots of the rooted cuttings and placed into the transplant holes at planting time.
During the entire growing period ACT was applied periodically undiluted. Populations of Persimilis and Cucumeris and Lady Bugs were introduced to control mites, aphids and thrips. The plants were grown to approximately 8 to 10 inches tall then the lights were switched from 18 hour days to 12 to induce flowering. They finished at about 18 to 24 inches. The entire growing time was about 10 to 12 weeks.
After harvest red wriggler composting worms were dropped into the bins to devour the dead roots and leaves lying on the surface and to poo and aerate the soil. EM fermentations were applied sometimes while the worms were still in, sometimes after. It did not seem to make much difference. The worms were trapped out with mesh plastic traps laid on the surface filled with their favorite foods. Some remained in the bins but that didnt matter. At minimum two weeks after applying EM the planting took place again and immediately vermicompost was top dressed as well as fish hydrolysate about a week or two after planting.
This continued for 5 years without ever disturbing the soil except for planting holes. (one set of bins went 7 years) The populations of Persimilis and Cucumeris flourished along with resident Rove beetles, spiders, springtails, rollie pollies, millipedes, etc. The Rove beetles had come in from outdoors with the topsoil. They are fabulous generalist predators. They do occasionally bite but nothing serious. The Lady Bugs needed replacing but were hardly needed. Mushrooms grew and there was a mini-ecosystem established.
It only terminated because the authorities said our contract was not valid.
If I were to try a similar setup again, I would consider;
1/ planting companion plants such as clover in order to maintain living roots to keep up the microbial population in the rhizosphere and to possibly maintain endomycorrhizal fungi.
2/ providing a sloped bottom to a drain tube for each bin, collected centrally, to prevent drainage from upper bins into lower bins.
3/ working fermented plant extracts like nettles, yarrow, comfrey and horsetail ferns into the program
