BTU AC per 1000w cob?

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George2324

Well-Known Member
kony brado said:
Some does but not much ,you will have shade down the plants like hps,its a bit better because of the green parts of the spectrum that led has and hps has less,so just a little beter with led.
i grow small plants,50-55 cm high ,16 per meter square ,and still defoliate them as i would with hps.i highly recommend it .
thank's


theoretically yes,you will get 1500/4=375ppfd
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375 ppfd is a very small amount of light isn't it?
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
hopefully I'll get some nice foot long colas from
This setup then. I have always understud the inverse square law but I don't know what I was thinking...

I was for some reason thinking if I grow closer to the lights I'll be able to get much longer colas...

Theoretically the longest cola I could realistically get from the space I have is 12 inches due to the drop off in intensity.

Maybe it's worth just cramming as many colas into a tight space as possible rather than giving them plenty of space.

My hole reason for doing all this change was to try and increase my yield.

I've been getting consistent gram per watt with hps but the one thing I can't get any More of at the moment is space so I am hoping to get some increases from this.

If I could get 4 oz a plant 1 plant per square foot I'd be able to provide meds to all my current patients. Don't think I'd ever be able to achieve that with my current space tho!

It's worth the challenge I suppose
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
thats not a light problem thats a garden problem if youre letting your light escape into space
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Don't understand what you mean?

My lights can only hit the canopy and if they don't they hit Mylar right at the sides of the canopy.

I'm just designing this room to try and get the most out of it. The further down the canopy i can get decent growth the better


What I meant was if I have 1500 ppfd at 12 inches at 24 inches I'd have 375ppfd so your losing a lot of light in that distance
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
George2324 said:
Don't understand what you mean?

My lights can only hit the canopy and if they don't they hit Mylar right at the sides of the canopy.

I'm just designing this room to try and get the most out of it. The further down the canopy i can get decent growth the better


What I meant was if I have 1500 ppfd at 12 inches at 24 inches I'd have 375ppfd so your losing a lot of light in that distance
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I've even contemplated running cobs directly below the plant shooting up so the bottom half of the plant can turn its leaves facing down for light and the top have of the plant have its leaves facing up for light
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Good mooorninnnng!!!
I'm back on the track!

It would be nice if you would post a few pictures of your grow area. Maybe you could make a few changes on your hydro system to make more heights available or we'll find another way.
The people here could get a better impression if they could see your room and you would get even better tips to optimize your facility.
@ttystikk has also built a really efficient vertical setup(watercooled COB's) and he also has an own thread for his garden here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/ttystikks-vertical-goodness.787572/

But I have to warn you, the thread has over 200 pages and unfortunately much useless blah-blah.
So you have to separate the chaff from the wheat or read very quickly, Lol!
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately I wish I could show pictures but for security I can't.

I can't get any more hieght than 1.2m of footprint on the wall due to the sloped roof.

I have the vertical cobs mounted vertically on a 2x4 frame of wood I made on wheels though...

I wonder if I could create some sort of light mover that makes the light move closer and further away left and right to increase penetration and decrease penetration throughout the day.

I've done a little drawing of my design excuse my terrible drawing

Water flows down the pipes over the roots using rain bird sprinklers so it's sort of aero/nft

The drawing is supposed to be symmetrical but I fucked it up haha
 

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George2324

Well-Known Member
I also have axial fans mounted directly under the vertical cob fixture which sucks air in from the floor of the room (thinking co2) shoots it over the heatsinks fins and the curve of the sloped roof will then cause the co2 to be directed down into the plants.

Axial fans are powerful I can feel the force 3m away. It should keep the heat off the heat sinks atleast
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
George2324 said:
Unfortunately I wish I could show pictures but for security I can't.

I can't get any more hieght than 1.2m of footprint on the wall due to the sloped roof.

I have the vertical cobs mounted vertically on a 2x4 frame of wood I made on wheels though...

I wonder if I could create some sort of light mover that makes the light move closer and further away left and right to increase penetration and decrease penetration throughout the day.

I've done a little drawing of my design excuse my terrible drawing

Water flows down the pipes over the roots using rain bird sprinklers so it's sort of aero/nft

The drawing is supposed to be symmetrical but I fucked it up haha
Click to expand...

You could use a "meta data remover" app before posting pictures like I did and use an additional VPN(virtual private network) which masks your IP and makes them believe, you live in the USA or elsewhere.
There are free apps available for all of this and it will make you sleep better if you know that they can not track your amounts.
Positive side effect, personal advertising also disappears!
IMO, a VPN is a must-have today...
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
You could use a "meta data remover" app before posting pictures like I did and use an additional VPN(virtual private network) which masks your IP and makes them believe, you live in the USA or elsewhere.
There are free apps available for all of this and it will make you sleep better if you know that they can not track your amounts.
Positive side effect, personal advertising also disappears!
IMO, a VPN is a must-have today...
Click to expand...
I actually live in a legal area it's just legalisation doesn't stop thieves.

The drawing I put up pretty much shows more than a picture could atm as I haven't finished building tho
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO. said:
I don't recommend that, 4000btu per thouie is absolute bare minimum, compressor generally will never cycle off in the summer........op I would be around 6000+btu per 1000w for no issues/strain on controls
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thanks for chiming in. i was just throwing down straight math, your real-world numbers are more useful

i live in high desert where its in the 50s at night in the summer so i dont have experience with that :)
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
It's very difficult to find a supplier of a dual hose AC unit here suprisingly.
I've only found one supplier which is a 12000 btu unit... I could do a max of 3 of the units in the room for 36000 btu but I'd prefer to try and stick to 24000 btu if I can.

My max temp in the hieght of summer is probably around 30c in the room without lights. So I suppose I need to make sure I have enough BTU AC to remove all extra heat so it stays at 30

Problem I face with 3 units is that I can't fit that many hoses into the chimney stack.

I'd need to somehow vent the heat somewhere else but I don't want to have an obvious plume of heat coming out of the room. Chimney stack was the only option I could think of.

If I add a booster fan to the AC vent do you think I could merge multiple hoses into one fitting and push it up the chimney without loss of efficiency?
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
Right I've Been having a think and a bit of a shake up...

From your advice that 45w per square foot is more than enough for with co2 im thinking of running the entire fixture down to 4000w

So in total all the lights (mothers and clones etc) I'll be running 5000w in the room.

Do you think I'll be able to run the co2 burner in the room and manage with 24000 BTU AC?
 
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