Bud Rot Prevention?

Harlequin

Well-Known Member
Hey folks,

Gearing up for my summer season here, and there's one thing that always kicks my butt where I live: Bud Rot. I'm wondering if anyone has any sure-fire preventitive measures for keeping the Evil Grey Slime at bay... I'm trying a silica additive for the first time this year, but I haven't seen anywhere that it specifically helps with bud rot, though I'm sure it can't but help. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated... much thanks in advance-

H.
 

Harlequin

Well-Known Member
not watering them too much, and making sure they have enough sunlight
Not enough where I live (the Northeast)... they get plenty of sun, and I only water as needed... the problem is, in the fall, the dew falls at night and creates far too much humidity... I need a systemic or very reliable topical fungicide.... anyone??
 

tyke1973

Well-Known Member
There is realy only on sure fire way of stopping budd rot and that is to visit the grow after every rain fall and give the plants a good shake.but this can be sorted before you even get to the point of putting the plants in the ground.go onto[dutch passion] web page and order a mixed pack of seeds,you realy want a mix of a.m.s[anti mould strain].also the church and white rhino are another two good strains that have a tollerance to mould.if you can plant under a tree but take off the lower brances to at least 16 ft this will stop rain getting on your plants has much.make sure that you rub soil ore any dirt into yhe new cut brances this looks less conspiculess.if possible go for the anti mould strain,plant what ever strain you want but these take a little less maintanace.i did arjons ultra haze last year and lost about 1 ounce whitch i throw but considering the smallest throw me 9 and a little over 2 blackbags.[shirly basseys] full to the brim of just nugs.also always tidy up after yourself take all the nugs bag them put into a very big ruck sack depending on the ammount.but 1 plant should trhow you at least a min of 9 ounce at most 2 and harf pound perhaps even more.feed a feed that will last i use arther turners slow re~lease pellets because you don't have to visit for at least 2/3 month i also put a sprinkleing a handful per plant of blood fish and bone.but make sure to put the feed under some compost take alittle with you then use a fox hole a hole dug just big enougth to hold your feed make sure you use a small piece of timber oard to cover the hole i put pva glue all over the board then cover in surrounding vegatation,this way you are not transporting feed every time you need to feed.make the fox hole a little away from the plantation.remember to put a 3 ltr emty container in the hole for feed i also have a ph tester and set ph of water of around 5.0/5.5.it may sound stupid but wear cammo gear you stand out less.If the harvest makes it then tidy round put all your nugs dont trimm these till you get home.Never put them into a car till you are about to leave.The rest of the plants fold over and throw to yhe middle of the river with a brick tied around the bear plant it may become a great spot next year and for years to come i know a guy who planted the same spot for 5 years till a river section was sold and work was carried out.Always do your homework before the plants go in.The reason that i plant in march/may is this gives them time to get realy big the bigger the plant the bigger the rootsystem the larger the yeiled.good gurilla growing
 

Harlequin

Well-Known Member
Thanks Tyke1973, all good info... anyone know how Early Misty holds up against rot? I figure the early harvest time will certainly help avoid the heavy dew we get here in the Northeast come the fall. I've also got a few White Widows (which, I imagine, won't do so good outdoors, but I had them), a Master Kush and a Diesel (not sure if it's sour or NYC)... the D I've done before, the last couple of years, had no problems with rot 2 years ago, but last year it was awful. It was also the rainiest summer on record last year (we got 8.5" in July, August, and September- that's 25.5" of rain in 3 months!) Also, I was wondering about the organic fungicide sprays, Smo KING, have you had much luck with them? When do you start applying? I've used the non-organic stuff (Ortho), with mixed results, and I would definitely rather use an organic version, especially for topical use.

Does anyone know of any effective SYSTEMIC fungicides? I hate spraying shit on my plants, even if it is organic... I read somewhere that Neem Oil is good systemically, but it's expensive and I'm not sure if it would work or not... anyone got any ideas on that front?

Thanks all
 
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