alesh
Well-Known Member
Very cool
Looking forward to it.
Build Using CLU048-1212C4 COBS. Advice Needed :-)
- Thread starter klmccao4
- Start date
Looking forward to it.
mr. Amsterdam
Well-Known Member
hi bobby,
Does this mean that the 90 CRI from Citizen is always preferable over the 80 CRI, if yes what about the high 97CRI then would that be even better?
greetz mr A.
@CobKit , do you think i can put 180 CLU0 48-1212-C4-303M2K1 on a
HLG-600H-30 or a
HLG-600H-36?
(it would nice if anyone can show a spreadsheet of the CLU0 48-1212-C4-303M2K1 down to the minimum Ampere,i cant run it on my Pc.)
if the cob need at ~0.110 Ampere max. 30 volt it would go on the HLG-600H-30 at ~100% load,
if not it should go on the HLG-600H-36,but this have only 16,7 A so the load would be ~80%,ca. 500 Watt.
the efficiency of these drivers doesnt matter 80% or 100% load,is nearly the same and very high,95% up to 95,5%.
first driver would give ca. 600 watt at ~110mA,second driver just only 500 Watt but a little more efficient cobs at 90mA.
can get a package of these cobs very cheap,but the minimum order is 180...and so i dream a little of passive cooling and going very efficience with low driving.
but the voltage go insane high ,is this about all possible to connect?
HLG-600H-30 or a
HLG-600H-36?
(it would nice if anyone can show a spreadsheet of the CLU0 48-1212-C4-303M2K1 down to the minimum Ampere,i cant run it on my Pc.)
if the cob need at ~0.110 Ampere max. 30 volt it would go on the HLG-600H-30 at ~100% load,
if not it should go on the HLG-600H-36,but this have only 16,7 A so the load would be ~80%,ca. 500 Watt.
the efficiency of these drivers doesnt matter 80% or 100% load,is nearly the same and very high,95% up to 95,5%.
first driver would give ca. 600 watt at ~110mA,second driver just only 500 Watt but a little more efficient cobs at 90mA.
can get a package of these cobs very cheap,but the minimum order is 180...and so i dream a little of passive cooling and going very efficience with low driving.
but the voltage go insane high ,is this about all possible to connect?
CobKits
Well-Known Member
looks like it would work. even though citi calc says:
my bench test looks like:
def lit up for 3W. it actually lights up at single mA, and its too bright to look directly at at 10 mA
thats a lot of soldering/holders/drilling/etc. id prob cut # of cobs in half and run em at 6W, youd still be super efficient, ~200 lm/W (thats a 6500k in the pic and in the simulator up there). in my opinion id run 90 on a driver and either buy less cobs or double your space.
i just got back from the restaurant supply house and got some 16x22 aluminum baking sheets. they are pretty beefy, 2.3 lb each. im gonna hans it up with these. at 120 w/cm^2 these can dissipate 43W each. ill put 20 cobs on and do some testing, they should run up to 5W each easy, 100W @ 70%+ efficiency
my bench test looks like:
def lit up for 3W. it actually lights up at single mA, and its too bright to look directly at at 10 mA
thats a lot of soldering/holders/drilling/etc. id prob cut # of cobs in half and run em at 6W, youd still be super efficient, ~200 lm/W (thats a 6500k in the pic and in the simulator up there). in my opinion id run 90 on a driver and either buy less cobs or double your space.
i just got back from the restaurant supply house and got some 16x22 aluminum baking sheets. they are pretty beefy, 2.3 lb each. im gonna hans it up with these. at 120 w/cm^2 these can dissipate 43W each. ill put 20 cobs on and do some testing, they should run up to 5W each easy, 100W @ 70%+ efficiency
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Although I dont understand the entirety of your tools, I think its awesome. I can already foresee the amount of people youll have on your back to do tests. lol xD Cool stuff, I googled it only to see that its quite the investment. Good luck with it!
ilam
Member
Does this mean that a Citi 1212 running @ 30w would give a (8.2)*(30W)= 246 PPFD/W from 12''? If so, if i spread 4 of them evenly could i theoretically have a 246 PPFD coverage across the canopy?
Just trying to make sense of it. Thanks.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
I am sure Cobkits will get back to you. But your math is exactly what I got as well. And that test of a good PAR meter reading 12” directly under a cob is a measurement the average guy can do. You don’t need an integrating sphere or a bureau-of-standards calibrated PAR meter to compare cobs...just saying.
My 2 cents worth. I built over 2 years ago for 1 cob per square foot, 15-20 PAR watts a square foot (I usually run at 15), naked cobs run 6-10” away from the canopy and reflective walls. And after running continuously since then, I wouldn’t change a thing.
So 1 of his Citi 1212s per square foot running at 30-35 watts would get good results. It has for me...your results may vary.
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CobKits
Well-Known Member
no it would be substantially higher due to overlap. those readings are without any optics. you would either have overlap from the 120 deg pattern of adjacent cobs, or if you used optics it would be much higher reading
CobKits
Well-Known Member
good enough for me but apparently not for many around here, so we are raising the bar
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
I usually don’t brag with such a high-brow crowd, but I have a Hydrogarden meter with the sensor taped on the end of a Lowes paint stir stick!
It works great for measuring how many (ballpark speaking) photons and how uniformly they are raining down on the canopy. And after enough photons are raining down, for me there’s plenty of other aspects to growing to think about.That said, I appreciate your attention to detail, helping the new arrivals, and I look forward to the data from your sphere! Thanks.
hi, as i asked in my last post what would you raccomand me between
CLU048-1212C4-403M2K1 (4000K- CRI80- 153 lm/W)
and
CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 (3500K-CRI90- 119 lm/W)
and how would you drive that (if any) for a 2.3' square tent?
I'm a lot confused! more CRI corrispond to more PAR and it's better have more CRI instead of lumen?
In that case why gower usually do not use 95CRI or more?
maybe mine is a stupid question but that field isn't so easy to understand
thanx bob!
eyderbuddy
Well-Known Member
I edited this:
1 CLU048-1212 @ 50W would rock that little tent very efficiently. A perfect spread would give you ~515 umol PPFD @ 1ft which is ridiculous. I would also recommend going for the 3500k with 90 CRI. 90 CRI citizen cobs have a broader spectrum and output more red and far red than the 80 CRI version.
Go for the 4000K if you need to minimize stretching, although the 3500ks got enough blue in my opinion.
Edit: 2 1212's even at 36W each would be around the 820 PPFD mark which is way ridiculously high unless you're an expert grower.
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Sorry for my english what does"ridiculous"mean in that case? Is it a positive things?. So do you raccomand me 3500k 90CRI also if only 119 lm/w? I can easy find the follower products but i don t know what what does BBL mean....wbich of those would you raccomand me? Still 3500k 90cri?
CLU048-1212C4-403H5K2 (4000k- CRI90- 126 lm/W) ON BBL type
CLU048-1212C4-403M2K1 (4000K- CRI80- 153 lm/W) STANDARD type
CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 (3500K-CRI90- 119 lm/W) BELOW BBL type
i can't find any CLU048 on citizen tools, they missed those?
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I have done literally about 2 minutes of research on BBL but I think I have the basics down, bbl stands for black body locus or the planckian locus. From what i understand, it's basicly a way to plot the spectrum of visible light on an x,y graph. the bbl they give you in spec sheets is only a small section of the whole locus or graph.
https://www.google.com/search?q=black+body+locus&oq=black.body+locus&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.4076j0j4&client=ms-android-att-us&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=2Jz4_UfWy1qt7M:
This is the whole locus and you can see where it shows the lines for 3000k 3500k etc. I'm guessing the colour right at a given area, such as where the circle is on the spec sheets for each colour, will give you a visual idea of what colour it will be