Can it Be the SOIL again? PISSED

I wake up today to notice something I haven't seen on any of my plants before. What the fuk man, This Fox Farm Soil is killing me already! I am not giving my plant any NUTES, just 6.5PH water. I have this weird color going on with my plant, Seems to be are darker green in the center of the leaf and lighter green on the outside of the leafs. Leaves look melted on the edges. Now I was doing some research on this and they say it may be heat stress but impossible, maybe Fertilizer BURN. Reason: Room 85degrees, Humidty 43%, Light height 14 inches. Its going to be the Fucken Soil Again, I bet. What you say?I'M SO PISSED ALREADY!
THIS WHITE WIDOW PLANT IS ONLY 16 days From SEED!

Looks pretty good, may be a lil on the warm side. Is your hood cooled or open? Hold your hand right above the plant see if it gets hot, you may want to raise the light up a lil more.

What kind of light are you useing? If a 600++ watt HPS, then 14 inches is to close jack that thing up to 18"-20" above until it get acclimated. Only thing I see is the edges of the plant curling up. Sure looks like just a little heat stress to me. You do not have to have High heat for this to happen. You can be giving a young plant to intense of light and cause that also. Fox Farm is supposed to be a good soil. But I use Coco so I know excatly what is in my medium.

Good luck on getting this problem under control.

Yup, I think the lads/lasses are right^^^^, plant looks okay to me appart from a bit of taco cupping around the edge of the leaves. Move light further up, fan across plant and you should be okay. From what I heard of FF it's good stuff.

Ok guys, My hood is an open hood with 2 small fans blowing 1 at light the other blowing across the top of plant. I am using a 250W Hortilux BLUE, can it be this Bulb? Raise the light huh?

Raise it up ;P

Dam, Ok i will raise right now. Do i raise it to 16 or 18 inches?

Not so much the bulb, its the heat from the bulb. Your plant is fine, rise the light some and let that baby breath!

I would put some air right on the plant too, it helps make it stronger to hold the weight of the buds later, cools it, and helps aspiration. a couple inches can make a big difference when it comes to light height.

The light should be alright I keep my 400 watter 15"~
The upward cupping is going around I had the same thing, my the plants just grew out of it~

Lower the fan on the left down so the airflow is blowing across the top of the plant, and STOP IMMEDIATELY blowing that fan on the right onto the light, all you are doing is creating hot air that will blow down onto your plant, drying it out, if you move that you may not even have to lift the light up any higher. Have that creating an air steam similar to the one on the left....in fact just move the one on the right and have that blowing on your plant, lol...sorry, I am a bit medibled.

doggyd said:

Ok guys, My hood is an open hood with 2 small fans blowing 1 at light the other blowing across the top of plant. I am using a 250W Hortilux BLUE, can it be this Bulb? Raise the light huh?

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i wouldn't say upward cupping is going around (sounds like a disease that way, lol), it looks like the plant is getting hot air blown onto it.

MrGhettoGrower said:

The light should be alright I keep my 400 watter 15"~
The upward cupping is going around I had the same thing, my the plants just grew out of it~

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you do have a problem but it's not to serious, here is some info for now and down the road.

A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.
The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.
Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.

1. Too much marijuana fertilizer
   The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigor and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
   A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
2. High Heat
   The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, grayish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf desiccation or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. Too much light
   Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
4. Over Watering
   For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anaerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.
5. Not Enough Water
   Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.

yep,get that fan off the light,like D,says
that heat is drying that plant out.


"cupping going around"...lol

DST said:

Lower the fan on the left down so the airflow is blowing across the top of the plant, and STOP IMMEDIATELY blowing that fan on the right onto the light, all you are doing is creating hot air that will blow down onto your plant, drying it out, if you move that you may not even have to lift the light up any higher. Have that creating an air steam similar to the one on the left....in fact just move the one on the right and have that blowing on your plant, lol...sorry, I am a bit medibled.

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Well this is a 250W hood with Ballast built in, So the fan at the right is blowing right on the ballast and not the light. The fan on the left I moved and temp in room droppedto 80 degrees and humidity went up too 50%. This is the way i set it now! Not too different!

Sun is 93,000,000 miles a way, raising your light up an extra 6' is not going to hinder anything

DST said:

i wouldn't say upward cupping is going around (sounds like a disease that way, lol), it looks like the plant is getting hot air blown onto it.

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DAM IT!!!! I dated this chick last week and she gave me a bad case of the cupping. Doctor helped me out with a couple of shots in the ass. ROFLMAO

Minor heat stress, raise the light till its out of seedling stage(4 weeks). No big deal.

Problem: A sulfur deficiency will manifest itself as all-over chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) starting with the oldest leaves and may look like a nitrogen deficiency at first. The parts that are underneath the leaves may take on a distinctive pinkish red or orange color. The buds on a flowering plant may start dying off. Unlike other deficiencies that cause chlorosis, a sulfur deficiency will start at the back of the leaf and move it's way forward as opposed to started at the tips. Leaves become stiff and brittle and will eventually fall off.

Solution: Check and correct your pH to make sure that your sulfur isn't being locked out. Sulfur moves slowly through the plant so it may take a few days after you fix the problem before you start noticing an improvement in your plant.

LOOK IT UP AND YALL SEE IM RIGHT IVE BEEN DOING THIS FOR 10 YEARS I KNOW IT ALL......