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Canada Grows to the 4 Plant Limit

Discussion in 'Indoor Growing' started by DIY-HP-LED, Sep 10, 2017.


    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

    Strips do look appealing, very high lumens/watt and little required for heat sinking, wish more places than digikey sold them though.
    Nice grow, from the bud pics I'd say yer getting enough lux/par. Know how much lux yer getting at canopy level? Citizen COB prices are coming down and they are a good alternative to cree and vero29's.
    CanadianDank likes this.

    CanadianDank Well-Known Member

    I bought mine at arrow, not digikey and they were a small amount cheaper.

    No clue on lux, and I just swapped that this week, was 600w hps before.
    Dont need a meter to tell ya it's much better penetration and coverage though!

    Yeah th citizen chips are quite affordable, it's th heatsinks and shipping that aren't.
    DIY-HP-LED likes this.

    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

    Ya definately gotta innovate on the heatsink end of things, I using and testing 1" square tubing ($1/ft CDN approx) and water cooling. Ebay CPU heatsink/fans are the cheapest option and will handle COBs driven up to 50 watts with the fans undervolted to run quieter.

    I wonder why someone with a drill press in southern ontario hasn't gone into the custom heatsink business, they should be able to get heatsink extrusions in standard 20 foot lengths for wholesale prices.

    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

    Gen 3 Grow Light Water Cooling Tube Construction
    I cut some 1-1/2" pieces of channel for COB backing plates and tried one on the cooling bar to make sure everything fit correctly. This is a 81 watt Citizen CLU 048 3500K CRI 90 and a cheap holder and I plan on using 5 of them (with 2700 K also) on the 4 foot long test bar.

    Here is what it looks like from the side using a 20mm M3 nylon standoff. On the test and final light I'm using 22mm x M3 brass standoffs and silicone pads between the COB and cooling tube. I'm gonna drill a small hole over the negative COB contact to get some Tc readings from 2 holders. I'm gonna get Tc readings from 2 COBs, one using thermal paste and the other using a silicone thermal pad and see which one I'll use with the final light

    Here you can see how the COB and holder line up with the cooling tube and how much of the COB is hanging over the edge. I cut some small backing aluminum plates, instead of a large single backing plate, so that I could adhere the drivers directly to the cooling tube with double sided adhesive CPU thermal tape. If I mount the drivers upside down on the cooling tube with thermal tape they should be cooled by the lamp cooling system as well. On the test bar I'm gonna mount one 100 watt driver upside down with tape and the other driver rightside up with a wire tie and measure the temperature difference. These drivers often run at over 50 C, so if they can be cooled by the water cooling system that should be better, the cooler the drivers run the longer they last.
    ttystikk likes this.

    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

    ledgardener and ttystikk like this.

    ttystikk Well-Known Member

    He's been trying to blow up a quantum board for awhile now. Pretty funny- the board has thus far resisted all attempts to cook off, even with 450W applied to it lol

    ledgardener Active Member

    Heheh. Yeah I think the next attempt will be without a heat sink. It's kind of cheating but if I can't do it with a 600W driver then I've got to resort to special tactics.
    ttystikk likes this.

    Yodaweed Well-Known Member

    Why don't you upgrade your grow area to a larger area then?
    DIY-HP-LED likes this.

    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

    I am building another 4' long water cooled light using the above design to cover another 3'x5' grow area in the flower room that I'm gonna use for another strain. I'm gonna limit the power used over the main grow table to a kilowatt or less and use about 800 watts over the new area.

    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

    Gen 3 Grow Light Water Cooling Tube Construction & Test

    I finished a test lamp using a 4 ft long water cooling tube made from 1" square architectural aluminum tubing with sharp corners. One one end of the tube has a pair of Citizen CLU 048 COB's with cheap plastic holders, the other end has a pair of warm white 100 watt flood light COBs. I'm gonna take some Tc measurements off the citizen and floodlight COBs and the 50 watt drivers as well. One of the citizen Cobs and one of the drivers is using a silicone thermal pad to facilitate thermal transfer, one driver is mounted the regular way and I'm gonna see how much the cooling tube can cool the drivers as well.

    An end view with the floodlight COBs and silicone thermal pad material

    I held the upside down mounted drivers on tight with nylon wire ties and used a silicone pad under one driver and the other two used medium quality silicone thermal paste. One driver is mounted the usual way and no effort was made to thermally bond it with the cooling tube.
    20171110_200102.jpg 20171110_200102.jpg

    I'll but some black tape on the drivers and tube to take infrared thermal readings and I use it to with the K type thermocouple too. I drilled a hole in the plastic Citizen COB holder over the negative contact to get some Tc readings and I'll get some off the floodlights as well

    Using WAGO connectors makes the job a snap and since I'm gonna take the test lamp apart, after I confirm that the cooling tube is up to the job of cooling both floodlight and Citizen COBs, it will make that easy too.

    Tomorrow after I feed the girls I'm gonna wet test the lamp on the bench and take some thermal readings after she warms up a bit. If it cools the CBs the way I want, then I'm gonna rebuild my big water cooled rig using the new 6' long design. I've built 3 x 4 ft long 1" square cooling tubes and the test lamp is one of the tubes, I'm gonna expand the grow with another 3 x cooling tube 4 ft long water cooled lamp using leftover drivers and floodlight COBs. There's unused space in the grow room, capacity in the lamp cooling system and spare COBs and Drivers laying about. For now there's going to be a sativa dominate (Moby Dick) going in the space, but something high in CBD would be nice if I could get something stabilised or even a clone. I'll have a 4' x 2' 750 watt water cooled lamp made with 3 cooling bars and a cob spacing of around 11", over a 3' x 5' area. I might add 80 to 100 watts of 4000K LED strips to this light as well.

    Gen 3 Test Grow Light Water Cooling Tube Test Results
    The results of the wet bench test confirm that I can use these tubes to build my water cooled grow lights, Tc temps in the mid forties for both the Citizen and floodlight COBs using either thermal paste or silicone thermal pads between the COBs and the cooling tube. The coolant temp was 26 degrees celsius, the ambient temp was 25 degrees and the lamp drew 182 watts at the plug, because 3 of the drivers only draw 44 watts each and were an ebay scam (i got a refund). The upside down mounted drivers that were cooled by the cooling tube ran 15 C cooler than the one that was mounted right side up, so the enclosed drivers on the final lamps will be mounted upside down and will be cooled by the tubes too.

    You can use 1" square aluminum tubing like that shown as a grow light water cooling tube and mount 28mm square quality COBs with a holder or screws on Chinese floodlight COBs and also use the cooling tube to significantly (15 C) cool the drivers as well.

    Each 4' long 1" square tube cost about $4 for the aluminum tube and 2 x $2 CDN for the brass PEX end fittings,
    or $8 per tube x 3 tubes= $24 CDN for a 4'x2' water cooled light rig. Some silicone caulking to seal the ends of the tubes, a couple pieces of aluminum angle, some plastic fittings and hoses and something to dump heat out with on the other end of the cooling system.

    This is about as cheap as water cooling gets and it's cheaper than air heat sinks for a large light rig, my new lamp described above will have a total of 15 COBs, that's a lot of pin heatsinks!
    ttystikk likes this.

    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member


    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

    Four Foot Long Gen 3 Water Cooled LED Grow Light
    I've started constructing a four foot long Gen 3 water cooled LED grow light by stripping my 24"x24" water cooled light to use the frame and components in the new light. I removed the 24" cooling bars and stripped out the electrical box.

    Three 100 watt drivers on the left and a 100 watt on the bottom right next to it is a 50 watt driver and the metal box in the top right is a 12 volt fan power supply. Over half of the AC side of the lamp is already wired with WAGO connectors. I'm holding a 50 C thermal cutoff switch down onto the center cooling tube with a clamp until some epoxy sets, this is a safety feature to shut down the lamp in case of a cooling system failure.


    I have one COB mounted in the middle of the center cooling bar under the electrical box, it's covered in masking tape for protection during construction. I used 1" mending plates from the local dollar store to hold the 3 X 4' X 1" square aluminum cooling bars to the support frame using the original bolts

    I mounted six flood light COBs with thermal paste on one end of the lamp using M3 x 35mm screws and nuts. I cut some square pieces of aluminum as back plates to mount the COBs on, I was going to use 22mm x M3 brass stand offs, but they haven't arrived yet, though the 35mm x M3 screws did and work fine.

    Tomorrow I hope to have the rest of the drivers and COBs mounted, then I can wire up the COBs. I might put 6 X 20 watt 4000K strips on the this lamp as well, it depends when the drivers arrive.
    ttystikk likes this.

    DIY-HP-LED Well-Known Member

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