Companion plants Vs Mulch?

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
Doesn’t compost or castings work as a mulch all on its own as well? Like a 2 inch layer.
I was wondering the same thing. I wonder if it has something to do with lack of air flow or something? I mean whatever you do, it’s working… Last I saw your plants looked great man.

I think a mix of homemade compost/EWC/ and a little variety of Accumulator plants, with some basic straw or whatnot would be great.
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
I was wondering the same thing. I wonder if it has something to do with lack of air flow or something? I mean whatever you do, it’s working… Last I saw your plants looked great man.

I think a mix of homemade compost/EWC/ and a little variety of Accumulator plants, with some basic straw or whatnot would be great.
Well I think we are talking about to different things. Mulch in the a physical sense ( straw, ride halls et.) and a mulch layer which happens naturally with a no till naturally.
I think of my no tills like the Forrest floor. Each season leaves feeds the next. Over years of decomp the top layer of soil becomes what I think of as the mulch layer.

your comfrey would be an excellent addition and working with worms and natural decomp you will get a nice thick black humus layer. Acts as moisture lock once it’s kicking will break down any organic inputs fast.
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
Well I think we are talking about to different things. Mulch in the a physical sense ( straw, ride halls et.) and a mulch layer which happens naturally with a no till naturally.
I think of my no tills like the Forrest floor. Each season leaves feeds the next. Over years of decomp the top layer of soil becomes what I think of as the mulch layer.

your comfrey would be an excellent addition and working with worms and natural decomp you will get a nice thick black humus layer. Acts as moisture lock once it’s kicking will break down any organic inputs fast.
Think I should add a handful of worms even though my 4x4 is fairly new? I added some malted barley powder so they can eat that. Plan for today is add worms and the comfrey.
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
Sure why not? They aren’t going to change the game that much but might as well get nature’s best decomposers working
I didn’t let my bed cycle for very long, didn’t want to potentially burn them at all… but I did NOT use alfalfa or anything. Going to start a little journal myself so you can see what o have going on.

It’ll be up tonight, got Bodhi seeds which ai enjoy
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
I didn’t let my bed cycle for very long, didn’t want to potentially burn them at all… but I did NOT use alfalfa or anything. Going to start a little journal myself so you can see what o have going on.

It’ll be up tonight, got Bodhi seeds which ai enjoy
Ooo man. Alfalfa is the best!
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
I know I didn’t have time to let it cycle. I have some so just going to topdress and use teas. There’s some stuff in alfalfa I want the benefits from… Maby I’ll Make a tea rather than topdress it, due to the red wigglers staying near the top
Sure. Teas can be fun but honestly man. You have a bed full of soil. Right? That’s like almost 200 gallons?? Don’t over think it. I really don’t like teas in a bed. There’s so much biology snd diversity with your homemade compost. Just rock it. Topdress some nutrients. Scratch into top inch of soil. Cover with 1 inch of castings. Cover with straw. Spray down straand keep soil moist.


keep it simple. Why worry about teas. Or cycling. Maybe dump some malted barley or even baby ostmeal instead of a s tea.
Dont over think it.

the single hardest thing about soil. And a big bed at that, is watering. Moisture levels. That is hard. Usually we fear water but work on that more than all the little details. Just a thought….
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
Here’s my current bed about to harvest in 10 days or less. I already chopped and dropped my last cover crops. As well as a good defoliation chop and drop.

Sow in new seeds.

spray down surface daily. Wait for sprout.

at harvest the remaining sugar leaves go down.

transplant new clones directly in.
C61175F4-BF2C-49DF-9571-FEBCEB102EEC.jpegBCAA3114-4F96-4CE3-BC91-388ED4FC95D4.jpeg1B7551D6-1459-4A5C-9F41-81036A0934CB.jpeg728EF5E9-23A1-416C-BAE7-F0A26086654B.jpeg
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
Sure. Teas can be fun but honestly man. You have a bed full of soil. Right? That’s like almost 200 gallons?? Don’t over think it. I really don’t like teas in a bed. There’s so much biology snd diversity with your homemade compost. Just rock it. Topdress some nutrients. Scratch into top inch of soil. Cover with 1 inch of castings. Cover with straw. Spray down straand keep soil moist.


keep it simple. Why worry about teas. Or cycling. Maybe dump some malted barley or even baby ostmeal instead of a s tea.
Dont over think it.

the single hardest thing about soil. And a big bed at that, is watering. Moisture levels. That is hard. Usually we fear water but work on that more than all the little details. Just a thought….
I have a blumat system but didn’t set it up yet. I’ve read multiple people say it was difficult to calibrate or what
Here’s my current bed about to harvest in 10 days or less. I already chopped and dropped my last cover crops. As well as a good defoliation chop and drop.

Sow in new seeds.

spray down surface daily. Wait for sprout.

at harvest the remaining sugar leaves go down.

transplant new clones directly in.
View attachment 4978011View attachment 4978013View attachment 4978014View attachment 4978015
Looks good thanks for sharing bud. You drop all your leaves you yank off and use as mulch? Look forward to seeing the harvest, I just transplanted into my 4x4 but probably going to flip to flower within two weeks.
 

green_machine_two9er

Well-Known Member
I have a blumat system but didn’t set it up yet. I’ve read multiple people say it was difficult to calibrate or what

Looks good thanks for sharing bud. You drop all your leaves you yank off and use as mulch? Look forward to seeing the harvest, I just transplanted into my 4x4 but probably going to flip to flower within two weeks.
Yes chop and drop. Some are afraid of the practice. Snd tbh I sometimes think it’s crazy. Also makes pest more prone to be around. Been fighting thrips this round. But somehow they came in through veg room….

it just takes dedication to See it through.

but honestly there is no better fertilizer than useing the plants own green inputs.

also I was gunna note that no tills over time compact. I was just reading your original post and not sure where you read you can’t use companions/covers and mulch. You really need both in a bed. I think of the deep rooting varieties as aerating the soil from the inside out. And as you harvest that plant the roots will die and become the structure for future grows as well as available NPK.
 

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
Yes chop and drop. Some are afraid of the practice. Snd tbh I sometimes think it’s crazy. Also makes pest more prone to be around. Been fighting thrips this round. But somehow they came in through veg room….

it just takes dedication to See it through.

but honestly there is no better fertilizer than useing the plants own green inputs.

also I was gunna note that no tills over time compact. I was just reading your original post and not sure where you read you can’t use companions/covers and mulch. You really need both in a bed. I think of the deep rooting varieties as aerating the soil from the inside out. And as you harvest that plant the roots will die and become the structure for future grows as well as available NPK.

There are many different opinions on cover crops from what I read, for example someone on this thread pretty much saying they’re useless. My opinion is I feel, like you said, they could attract some pests but that can be dealt with… Proper IPM.

I for one really like the idea of their roots helping with aeration. I’ll personally never let them grow too high, I don’t want a jungle even though it looks nice. Want to keep it neat.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
I havnt fermented anything garden related. May I ask what you mean exactly? What do you do?

What all is in your mulch layer (anything above the soil line?)
Plant material is fermented with lactic acid bacteria (LAB) and crude sugar or molasses to break down the plant fibers to make the nutrients and beneficial properties they contain more accessible for garden plants.

My earthbox just uses a plastic cover for mulch, and honestly, it works great!

In my mom tent I use 3 gallon pots and I mulch with malted barley straw. It works real well also.
 

Hiero1

Well-Known Member
Well I think we are talking about to different things. Mulch in the a physical sense ( straw, ride halls et.) and a mulch layer which happens naturally with a no till naturally.
I think of my no tills like the Forrest floor. Each season leaves feeds the next. Over years of decomp the top layer of soil becomes what I think of as the mulch layer.

your comfrey would be an excellent addition and working with worms and natural decomp you will get a nice thick black humus layer. Acts as moisture lock once it’s kicking will break down any organic inputs fast.
Your spot on with the forest floor.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Occasionally, I use both if I have seeds. Otherwise, just mulch. They have different purposes.

Cover crops are often nitrogen fixators, and are typically used when soil has nothing else growing in it, or with new plant transplants still too small to shade said cover crops. They also act as a "canary in a coalmine" so to speak, as the clovers/cover crop will show issues with watering and/or soil far before your main plants will. In some cases, they can even help with soil compaction. Of course, they die off when your main plants shade out the cover crops.

Clovers and the like are great for a variety of reasons, and although they're referred to as "living mulch" they don't quite do the same job as "mulch".

Mulch is a layer of material; woodchips, straw, hay/alfalfa/etc, and even compost. Mulch helps with water retention, makes even watering easier, and provides a nice home for a host of good critters.

Cover crops can help retain moisture, but not nearly as effective as woodchips or straw and the like.

Saw someone mention that cover crops can "take nutrients from your soil", however that is a fallacy. In fact, seeing as most cover crops are nitrogen fixators it is actually the opposite. The clovers will add nitrogen into your soil, and any minuscule amounts of nutrients they may have used will quickly be returned to the soil upon their decomposition. Sure, some cover craps can get fairly big, but look at their roots. Definitely not taking much from your soil.

As you can see, they both serve their own unique purposes and can in fact be used in tandem with one another.

One potential issue with mulch is that it tends to "tie up" some of the nitrogen from your soil. Mulch is carbon, and will decompose over time. Composting = C:N ratio, so, with such a large amount of carbon top dressed on your soil, some nitrogen will be leeched in order to decompose the mulch. Some Nitrogen will be tied up with the chips, not being released until the chips have fully decomposed back into the soil. Again, over time. Not the biggest deal, just means a little extra top dressing in some cases. However, still something worth knowing and considering.

In a no-till, or even a ROLS, this won't be much of an issue as your soil should have sufficient nitrogen levels in it even with mulch "tying up" some of it. Where this can be problematic is in brand new freshly made soil, which may not have enough Nitrogen to feed your plants once the N gets tied to your mulch.

People often believe only the plants need Nitrogen, however your soil itself uses it for energy, and anything decomposing will use it for energy (mulch included).

Why cover crops in tandem with mulch does so well, as you can gather from the info above, they balance each other out. Your nitrogen fixating cover crops will easily replace any Nitrogen tied up by your mulch. If cover crops aren't your thing (no biggie), you can still use mulch. Just might need to supplement with a little extra N in the form of extra top dresses, or a little liquid fish. For those of us that always have Neem Meal around to top dress with, you'll likely not notice this issue.

I'm never going without mulch, ever again. It is mandatory, especially outdoors. Not only do I now water much less, but watering evenly is so much easier. Peat is hydrophobic, right? No problem, soak your woodchips in water and come back in another hour or so. By then, the water will have "leeched" from the mulch and into your peat/substrate via wicking/capillary action. Now, you can water more effectively, as many dry spots will be eliminated.

Best part? Easy to find it free. I live in a small town (<2000 population), so not many places for me to just go and buy mulch. Woodchips from hardware stores are shit, especially the ones with the dyes in it. Not something I want leeching into my soil, stay away from those IMO.

Anyway, despite my super small town, I just found out this year we actually have a woodchip pile at our refuse station. Literally just drive up and shovel as many woodchips into my truck bed as I want, zero charge. If my small town has a free woodchip pile, then yours likely does too! Some even have compost piles, and in some cases leaf mould piles. Leaf mould is incredible, but I'd stay away from municipal compost piles personally. Unless you can verify with 100% certainty what is in the municipal compost, I'd stay away. Better safe than sorry.

Mulch combined with irrigation makes things incredible idiot proof.

All the best.
 
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