Cured for a week.. What's going on??

pprcutx

Active Member
Hey akuma :smile: I had this happen to me the first time as well.

What I have learned is that much of curing depends on how the buds were dried. If the buds were dried fast when they were airy their potential may have been diminished. I agree with DirtyBoy that you should have put them into jars earlier but I would say overall that when the bud is airy it is more important to slowly dry it than it is to put them into jars earlier. Slow drying goes for dense bud as well but becomes less of an issue.

The goal is to dry the bud as slowly as possible, maybe someone knows the reason for this in more depth. It has something to do with chemical breakdowns and sugar formation. Also the breakdown and "evaporation" of chlorophyll. Fast drying will compromise this critical process. In order for this process to be carried out, drying must be done slowly.

This realllly sucks.. that when bud gets fully dried for the first time that it's done curing. I don't see how remoisturizing the buds and then slowing down the drying process by jar-ing them wouldn't work.. Sorry I'm not a botanist but logically this would make sense.
As I said at first, this same thing happened to me. I dried too quickly but then I remoistened and continued to cure for 2 months, and as DirtyBoy said, it made very little difference.

As t0k3s suggests,

open it for 8-10 hours a day instead of 2-3 and do this for 3 days then see if there is a difference.:mrgreen:
This sounds intriguing to me and wouldn't hurt to try.

In my current attempts at drying/curing I have had MUCH better success by not even paying attention to how many days its been. I simply let the plant determine when its ready and forget about monitoring the number of days. You want to let the buds dry slowly, for small plants this has taken me 8-10 days and for larger plants around 14 days (roughly). I wait until there is no smell of hay at all, and that all the stems have a loud snap to them. If they can bend AT ALL i wait another day. Try not to look at them too much, once a day is best. After putting them into jars I have found the most optimum ones become remoistened on their own in the next 2 to 4 days. From this point the smell really starts developing.

This is simply what has been most effective for me, and it takes a few attempts to start getting the hang of it. I was kind of disappointed too at first, but it was only my first try. It will just keep getting better and better, so don't be discouraged!

Just keep trying :bigjoint:
 

akuma84

Active Member
pprcutx: Thanks man. I think this was a lesson at the cost of a dried QP =( Yea the buds dried pretty quick in like 5 days I think. It got airy and I could crack the stem very easily. Not the Master Kush I'm used to getting on the street.

Now since I know I have to slow down the drying process and I also know that the buds dry in my "environment" rather quickly than others. Should I jar them up after like a day after cutting and keep my eye on it? This would realllly slow down the drying process.
 

pprcutx

Active Member
I'm about to run out the door, lol. But you definitely don't want put them directly into jars after a day... i'm sure someone will give u some more info in the meantime
 

t0k3s

Well-Known Member
The goal is to dry the bud as slowly as possible, maybe someone knows the reason for this in more depth. It has something to do with chemical breakdowns and sugar formation. Also the breakdown and "evaporation" of chlorophyll. Fast drying will compromise this critical process. In order for this process to be carried out, drying must be done slowly.
your 100%right.. and i see so many good crops getting picked early,dried to fast by fans or drying boxes and all sorts of crazy shit..even curing using water.There is tons of information in the growfaqs on how to properly harvest and cure your bud. below is some info to add to your post:blsmoke:

Continued Metabolism

Also as these metabolic process take place, the plant needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and minerals. Many of these compounds are metabolized and released as water and carbon dioxide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more potent.

Much of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.

Curing will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.

Moisture Content

Moisture is essential for the curing process, it is both your friend and enemy. If too much moisture is left in the buds, with out the regular mixing, venting and turning of buds involved with curing, molds and bacteria can quickly form and ruin the taste and potency of your stash. On the other hand, without the necessary moisture metabolic processes essential to curing do not take place.

Fresh cannabis plants are around 80% water (all %’s by weight); curing generally begins after the cannabis has lost half of it’s initial mass, and contains approximately 33% of it’s initial water.

Once curing is complete and the pot is “dry”, it should still contain 10-15% moisture, approximately 2-4% of its’ initial water. This is an ideal because most bacteria and molds can not grow below 15% water content, and below 10% cannabis buds tend to powder.

The buds need to be kept in the dark, protected from light, which will quickly decompose the THC.

Moderated temperatures should be observed during curing, 50-75F being ideal.

Excessively hot temperatures will promote oxidation and the growth of mold and bacteria, and very cold temperatures can prolong curing and drying for up to several months.
 
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