curling leaves, drooping plant, yellowing leaves. first grow. help.

rya700

Member
HMMM that MAY be the whole problem...personally I never grow anything but cannabis in my garden. I don't care for the possibility of infecting my gurlz with illnesses or pests other plants may be prone to.
Yeah I feel ya. I'm planning in moving it out once I set up my hydro vegetable area.
 

Bbcchance

Well-Known Member
Yeah I feel ya. I'm planning in moving it out once I set up my hydro vegetable area.
If you are having humidity issues in a closed area my guess is the dwc system is the culprit, you have a bucket of bubbling water in a closed room, that's basically a homemade humidifier, move it to a new area and turn that ac on fan mode if it has it
 

rya700

Member
I could be wrong not being a meteorologist but humidity rises when it evaporates and it gets dark and cooler. Adding an inline fan may increase your rh. I would probably consider biting the bullet and getting a dehumidifier.
What about adding an exhaust fan?
 

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
High humidity is dangerous during flower because the temp will drop during dark hours. Cool air can't hold as much water so RH will rise.
Sounds like a mold problem waiting to happen! Mold issues are hard to fix while flowering without adding unintended flavors to your finished product.
 

$bkbbudz$

Well-Known Member
If you are having humidity issues in a closed area my guess is the dwc system is the culprit, you have a bucket of bubbling water in a closed room, that's basically a homemade humidifier, move it to a new area and turn that ac on fan mode if it has it
UHH DUH!!! I am a 100% soil grower and it obviously escaped my brain that this was a DWC grow! BBC gave good advice Rya
 

$bkbbudz$

Well-Known Member
High humidity is dangerous during flower because the temp will drop during dark hours. Cool air can't hold as much water so RH will rise.
Sounds like a mold problem waiting to happen! Mold issues are hard to fix while flowering without adding unintended flavors to your finished product.
^^^Good Shtuff
 
You need to measure the length x height x width of the room then divide by 3 will give the cfm of fan you need.
ive never heard of dividing it in 3. is there a formula behind why its 3?

in my experience an inline fan with a speed controller is going to do loads of help. you can then adjust and dial in the proper speed that you need.

CFM is pretty straight forward as its literally cubic feet per minute. so for example i have a 6inch exhaust fan with a rating of 442 cubic feet per minute and my tent is 104 cubic feet (4x4x6.5)

so you would assume that i would only need to be set at roughly 1/4 strength. but you also have to take into account the movement of the air being exhausted and also how often you would like the air to be changed in your tent ( some say 3 times a minute and some say 1 time every 5 minutes is just fine. it will eventually be up to your environment and its needs). distance of ducting and how many turns are in the ducting like 90 degree turns are also factors that reduce your fans efficiency . also having a carbon scrubber is going to reduce CFM as well and whether or not you are pulling or sucking air. i run my exhaust at 50 percent and sometimes slightly higher if its a warm day out. i maintain 50 percent humidity with that setting....i have yet to reach the decision on whether im just going to kick it up a notch to kill the humidity or if im going to invest in a dehumidifier....but i can tell you that i will prolly just try to kick it up a notch because i dont want the hassle of emptying the water tank off the dehumidifier, but thats just me.

i hope that helps....oh also if you want some science behind CFM ( im a big fan of learning the actual reasons why and how)
http://contractingbusiness.com/service/use-air-changes-calculation-determine-room-cfm

this site helps with contractor building for tonnage and AC (air change) requirements for residential and commercial buildings. just omit the part where you multiply the CFM by 60 to get CFH ( cubic feet per hour) and you will have your self a nice and accurate plan of how to tackle exhaust and air changes

happy growing and of course read read read practice practice practice rinse and repeat
keep us updated
 

Bbcchance

Well-Known Member
ive never heard of dividing it in 3. is there a formula behind why its 3?

in my experience an inline fan with a speed controller is going to do loads of help. you can then adjust and dial in the proper speed that you need.

CFM is pretty straight forward as its literally cubic feet per minute. so for example i have a 6inch exhaust fan with a rating of 442 cubic feet per minute and my tent is 104 cubic feet (4x4x6.5)

so you would assume that i would only need to be set at roughly 1/4 strength. but you also have to take into account the movement of the air being exhausted and also how often you would like the air to be changed in your tent ( some say 3 times a minute and some say 1 time every 5 minutes is just fine. it will eventually be up to your environment and its needs). distance of ducting and how many turns are in the ducting like 90 degree turns are also factors that reduce your fans efficiency . also having a carbon scrubber is going to reduce CFM as well and whether or not you are pulling or sucking air. i run my exhaust at 50 percent and sometimes slightly higher if its a warm day out. i maintain 50 percent humidity with that setting....i have yet to reach the decision on whether im just going to kick it up a notch to kill the humidity or if im going to invest in a dehumidifier....but i can tell you that i will prolly just try to kick it up a notch because i dont want the hassle of emptying the water tank off the dehumidifier, but thats just me.

i hope that helps....oh also if you want some science behind CFM ( im a big fan of learning the actual reasons why and how)
http://contractingbusiness.com/service/use-air-changes-calculation-determine-room-cfm

this site helps with contractor building for tonnage and AC (air change) requirements for residential and commercial buildings. just omit the part where you multiply the CFM by 60 to get CFH ( cubic feet per hour) and you will have your self a nice and accurate plan of how to tackle exhaust and air changes

happy growing and of course read read read practice practice practice rinse and repeat
keep us updated
Cfm stands for
ive never heard of dividing it in 3. is there a formula behind why its 3?

in my experience an inline fan with a speed controller is going to do loads of help. you can then adjust and dial in the proper speed that you need.

CFM is pretty straight forward as its literally cubic feet per minute. so for example i have a 6inch exhaust fan with a rating of 442 cubic feet per minute and my tent is 104 cubic feet (4x4x6.5)

so you would assume that i would only need to be set at roughly 1/4 strength. but you also have to take into account the movement of the air being exhausted and also how often you would like the air to be changed in your tent ( some say 3 times a minute and some say 1 time every 5 minutes is just fine. it will eventually be up to your environment and its needs). distance of ducting and how many turns are in the ducting like 90 degree turns are also factors that reduce your fans efficiency . also having a carbon scrubber is going to reduce CFM as well and whether or not you are pulling or sucking air. i run my exhaust at 50 percent and sometimes slightly higher if its a warm day out. i maintain 50 percent humidity with that setting....i have yet to reach the decision on whether im just going to kick it up a notch to kill the humidity or if im going to invest in a dehumidifier....but i can tell you that i will prolly just try to kick it up a notch because i dont want the hassle of emptying the water tank off the dehumidifier, but thats just me.

i hope that helps....oh also if you want some science behind CFM ( im a big fan of learning the actual reasons why and how)
http://contractingbusiness.com/service/use-air-changes-calculation-determine-room-cfm

this site helps with contractor building for tonnage and AC (air change) requirements for residential and commercial buildings. just omit the part where you multiply the CFM by 60 to get CFH ( cubic feet per hour) and you will have your self a nice and accurate plan of how to tackle exhaust and air changes

happy growing and of course read read read practice practice practice rinse and repeat
keep us updated
very informative, but he is in a closet grow not a tent, I don't think he is wanting to cut holes to run ducting in there, in a closet grow sometimes you just got to go with oscillating fans and an open door if need be, but I will be using that site for my upcoming 4 car unnatached garage grow tent setup
 
Cfm stands for

very informative, but he is in a closet grow not a tent, I don't think he is wanting to cut holes to run ducting in there, in a closet grow sometimes you just got to go with oscillating fans and an open door if need be, but I will be using that site for my upcoming 4 car unnatached garage grow tent setup
yeah after posting i realized maybe this wouldn't be an option. with the holes and all. definitely would go with a dehumidifier in the OP's situation. although the information is always helpful to have in the back of your mind.
 

$bkbbudz$

Well-Known Member

$bkbbudz$

Well-Known Member
Dude these are in their 4th week.
If you are questioning why your are so small and not the topping...you may want to consider going with HID lighting. You have the air circulation and cooling all set with your ac in the closet. Better light...better results.
 

rya700

Member
Exactly, my growth has been at a crawl. I had them under a 400w MH fixture but I think it nearly killed them.
 
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