Deficient or Toxicity

Discussion in 'Marijuana Plant Problems' started by Aolelon, Apr 15, 2018.

  1.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    Hello,
    I am noticing some yellowing/brown rust spotting on my lower leaves and towards the middle canopy. It definitely looks like a deficiency but it didn't happen until I started feeding nutrients so I am unsure as to why it would happen
    Soil - FFOF
    Temps - 70-75
    RH - 45-55%
    Flower week 2
    Nutrients - Dynagro bloom - 1/2 tsp and Foliage Pro - 1/4 tsp I also added 1 tsp Epsom salt
    PH was 6.3
    Lights - 2 QB 288- 2 Samsung F-series both dimmed to about 80%
    I did water with R/O water and didn't add any cal- mag to it, but I do supplement calmag every other watering or so.
    that was 2 waterings ago when it started appearing, I just watered them with 1tsp Epsom, 1/4 tsp Mammoth P
    1/2 TSP Pro-Tekt, and some Calmag.
    I was thinking of Flushing next and then giving some Bloom nutrients as I am leaning towards a Potassium deficiency but I am pretty unsure honestly.
    My camera wouldn't pick up the coloration. They are pretty light green with darker looking dark/rust spots
    one of the leaves has some slight curling and they feel dryish/rough
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 15, 2018
    DREGER likes this.
  2.  
    Tim1987

    Tim1987 Well-Known Member

    Imho.
    If it was fine before you fed. Then got worse, after you fed. You over fed.
    Whether it's your ph that's changed, toxicity, or both. I can't say.
    Ph of your soil, is the first place to start.


    What did you feed it, and how much?
    From what I've always read ffof is hot out of the bag.
    Chances are it's overfed.
    Do the checks.
    Ph first.
     
    DREGER likes this.
  3.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    I did, PH was fine at 6.3, I fed Dyna-gro Foliage Pro at 1/4 tsp and Bloom at 1/2 tsp.. well below the recommended dosage. And I have read that FFOF is hot as well, I just figured after 6-7 weeks would be a good time to start feeding. Guess I was wrong. lol0
     
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  4.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    Overfeeding could very well be a big possibility seeing how it didnt happen till after I fed them, I will just keep watering like I have been without the nutes and see how it goes.
     
    DREGER and Tim1987 like this.
  5.  
    Tim1987

    Tim1987 Well-Known Member

    No problem.
    Good luck mate.
    I've usually found, when instinct tells you it is. Then it probably is.
    I'd say your gut feeling was right, on this one.
     
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  6.  
    70's natureboy

    70's natureboy Well-Known Member

    Those little things shouldn't need much feed. They aren't showing classic signs of overfeeding, more like lock out. I personally don't like to over-do the epsom salts either. 1/2 tsp/gal should be enough to get some mg. Flushing little plants can be problematic too. It's easy to drown them. I guess I would gamble on a flush and see what the runoff looks like. Then probably not feed them again.
     
  7.  
    davillains

    davillains Well-Known Member

    flush and water with pH adjusted solution and feed with Foliage Pro
     
    Aolelon likes this.
  8.  
    NaturalFarmer

    NaturalFarmer Well-Known Member

    Looks like it needs calcium. I would stop feeding it calmag and get some gypsum. You are already feeding magnesium in epsom.
     
    Aolelon likes this.
  9.  
    MichiganMedGrower

    MichiganMedGrower Well-Known Member

    You didn’t mention the quality of your source water but it looks like too much mag or calcium is locking out calcium and now mag and that antagonizes the rest. With ro it is good to ad a calmag product to 150ppm or .3 ec.

    Better to mix hard tap water down with ro leaving 150ppm of its natural mineral content. Or many people using ro actually have decent tap water.

    As said above I would give only fresh water to good runoff and see what comes out. If clear enough add back a low 15-25% concentration of only foliage pro. If nasty and ph and ppm not in range. Leech more and try again.

    This sort of cleans off the roots and resets the medium.

    I can’t advise on calcium or mag as you may not need it at all in ocean forest there is sufficient oyster shell included.

    And no need to use cal mag and Epsom salts which are also mag. And the soil is loaded with mag......
     
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  10.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    I did mention it. I said I was using R/O water. and that's what I usually have been doing.. My tap water PPM is really high so I mix 1/3 tap to 2/3 RO and it brings my ppm down to about 200 or so. I have been testing the runoff PH and PPM. PH usually comes out about 6.5 to 6.4 and the PPMs are around 800. Thanks for you're input. Much appreciated.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2018
    MichiganMedGrower likes this.
  11.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the input. I am wondering if I have to much Potassium that is blocking my my other nutrient uptake. I have been looking at charts and It looks like there might be a few things going on. I am just going to wait till next watering and flush them, they problem is progressing slightly, but not how it did when I fed them. Seems like it happened within 2-3 days of me giving them the nutrients.
     
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  12.  
    MichiganMedGrower

    MichiganMedGrower Well-Known Member


    Makes sense. Takes 2-3 days to see effects.

    Do you mean ppm is .5 factor of ec? So 800 ppm would be 1.6 ec? Sad the industry makes us have to clarify that.


    Many on the forums show mag or calcium deficiencies in ocean forest during transition. I think the opposite of he general myth that OF lacks enough oyster shell.

    I think that feeding to early or too much too early before enough nutrients are depleted is usually the cause of striping and spotting leaves.

    The proof is the runoff in yours and my experience always is about 6.5. That’s the oyster shell buffering the medium like it’s supposed to which means there should be enough calcium. And soil has plenty of mag so I stand by the light flush and just low dose of foliage Pro to recover.

    Then wait til soil is very dry to water again. Not a knuckle down dry. Pot should be alarmingly light before re saturation and runoff from now on as nutes are added.

    Some damage will remain and she may ditch a leaf or two down low but they look good otherwise and the node stacking looks like they will grow nice fat long buds.

    Re post the results in like 5 days please.
     
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  13.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    I am not sure of the EC to PPM conversion, I just bought a PPM meter and don't have an EC meter. Might come in handy since I see that being thrown around a lot. And I was having a pretty good case of overwatering early on when I was watering every 2 days. Now I am doing it every 3 days and it has been working a lot better. I will definitely flush, I am just unsure I want to feed Foliage Pro due to the fact that every time I seem to add some some shit goes wrong lmao, I guess with me flushing it should hopefully flush it out. But I will definitely update.
    I have 2 plants. Only 1 is showing severe problems. Should I just go ahead and flush both of them?
     
  14.  
    MichiganMedGrower

    MichiganMedGrower Well-Known Member


    I would. But I don’t flush like they say with 3X the volume. I use a gallon of fresh water. Only more of the runoff looks and or smells bad. Then put back a lower amount of only base grow nutes. I have tried about 5 different kinds and any complete Grow ratio fertilizer with micro nutrients should restore balance to the soil.

    If you are mixing down hard tap water then you do not need cal mag. It builds up fast if not needed and clogs roots. It has a lot of iron too. All already present in various forms in your Grow.

    Not sure we mentioned but I don’t like ph down added to soil. The soil is the buffer. Fed properly the nutes or water won’t change the general ph of the root zone. The soil buffer is stronger. We feed the soil to replenish elements in potting soil grows. Not the plants directly.
     
    ANC likes this.
  15.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    Ill try it out and see what happens. I would have to do probably a gallon and a half or more each plant because they drink a lot. My runoff has always been clear (a little discolor at first but not much). Thanks for your help. :)
     
  16.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    The roots are perfectly capable of changing the pH in its immediate area as needed if the plants are healthy.
     
    MichiganMedGrower likes this.
  17.  
    MichiganMedGrower

    MichiganMedGrower Well-Known Member

    Yes that too. I was referring to the common “adjusting” of the medium with ph’ed water.
     
  18.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    My water is around 8.5-9.0 if I don't adjust it.
     
  19.  
    MichiganMedGrower

    MichiganMedGrower Well-Known Member


    Even after you dilute it? After it sits a while?
     
  20.  
    Aolelon

    Aolelon Well-Known Member

    yea my tap water PH is extremely high for some reason. So if I mix 1/3 tap to RO it shoots the PH way high.
     
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