Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yepp, they look like Osrams Duris S or M5. If they are a partner of Osram they probably get special selections (top bins) like SanLight or the NASA.
Digikey will be selling the new Samsung Horticulture Linear LED strips.
- Thread starter Isawthelight
- Start date
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Have a closer look here:
https://fluence.science/technology/physiospec-broad-spectrum-led-lights/
Sammys spectrum is more opimized for greenhouse growing. For indoor there is much to much blue.
But hey, MJ can adapt very fast to different spectra. I don't say these strips would not work, with 2,74μMol/j each cannabis plant would be happy .. even with a greenhouse spectrum. But I still stay with my first statement, these strips are not perfect for indoor growing. Basta!
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
no idea what that is bro
but really its photons photons photons
just saying that with actual hands on growing ,plants are not as fussy as many people here think .
give em enough photons ..they grow ...much of the gravy has to do with other factors
i am all for trying everything in the spectrum range..
.. i would prob now try a mostly ALL red to observe the extreme..
EmeraldØsiris
Well-Known Member
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
thanks..wonder how the red did on lettuce resin production
the test there is indicative with red because we use red..but we do not use just blue light we use various white spectrums
......gotta get that high red apollo back from my bros's lettuce grow..
the test there is indicative with red because we use red..but we do not use just blue light we use various white spectrums
......gotta get that high red apollo back from my bros's lettuce grow..
why would you supplement blue in a greenhouse!?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
In greenhouses lights are mainly used on cloudy days or in winter when the light from the sun is reduced. With high blue and red spikes its a try to add the missing wavelength to minic the sunlight the plants would see in summer. Summer days with a clear sky have ~5700°k and when want the same you need more blue.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Each 6 white + one deep-red diode are wired in series and there are 8 parallel strings. 6x 3,2v + 1x 2,3v would be 21,5v and each string is running with 150mA. They have 5150°k so it must be 5700 or 6500°k mixed with deep red LM351h. I bet its 5700°k. A1 bin would mean 2,8-2,9v@65mA and ~3,2v@150mA.
There is no wiring schema in the datasheet like with other Samsung strips but thats the only plausible layout. Its probably the highest voltage and flux bin like with the good old F-strips. A1 voltage and SL or SM bin in this case.
With the 2ft strips its probably 12+2 in series 8 times parallel.
There is no wiring schema in the datasheet like with other Samsung strips but thats the only plausible layout. Its probably the highest voltage and flux bin like with the good old F-strips. A1 voltage and SL or SM bin in this case.
With the 2ft strips its probably 12+2 in series 8 times parallel.
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Nope, I have no datasheet for LM351h but it seems to be a midpower diode and if it has the same limit like LM301h it can handle only up to 200mA. Deep reds a most efficient in terms of produced photons but their thermal management is more worse than for white diodes. That means they heat up faster and they would be less efficient when running that hard.
I would drive the new horti strips with 700mA(87,5mA per diode) or even at only 525mA(~65mA). At 525mA the efficiency would be near to 3μMol/J, the strips would run with only ~10,5-11w but you could be sure there is no commercial light available that can beat that until end of next year. And higher upfront cost pay back pretty fast. You get more light from the same power draw and therefor get more yield. So maybe it takes 1-3 runs to get the money back but from this point you'll profit again and again.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Ah, okay! In this case 150mA means they run really low and should reach a good efficiency.
I've liked btw all of your last posts cuz you need a certain number of likes to post links and upload stuff...
I've liked btw all of your last posts cuz you need a certain number of likes to post links and upload stuff...
Well thanks a lot for the explanations and the support 
The LH351H looks like the pendant to the Osram Oslon SSL120 and the Cree XPE. All about 2.1-2.5V with max current of ~1000mAh.
I have to dig deeper in the "math behind" thread, I don't know how to integrate and combine the spectra yet and englisch isn't my first language.
The LH351H looks like the pendant to the Osram Oslon SSL120 and the Cree XPE. All about 2.1-2.5V with max current of ~1000mAh.
I have to dig deeper in the "math behind" thread, I don't know how to integrate and combine the spectra yet and englisch isn't my first language.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Important thread! Usually you calculate the PPF (μMol/s) of your diodes and use this numbers as base. For integrating monochromatic light into white light I would simply look how the commercials do it.Well thanks a lot for the explanations and the support
The LH351H looks like the pendant to the Osram Oslon SSL120 and the Cree XPE. All about 2.1-2.5V with max current of ~1000mAh.
I have to dig deeper in the "math behind" thread, I don't know how to integrate and combine the spectra yet and englisch isn't my first language.
A 6:1 ratio like on the horti strips would also work if you mix 3500 or 4000°k diodes and deep-reds and the spectrum would be much better siuted for indoor growing. I also like the 4000°k/CRI90 spectrum because it adds a little more far-red to the spectrum which is especially useful for flowering.
If I could configure my own 2ft. horti strips I would probably mix 8x 6pcs 3500°k/CRI80 top bin with 6 deep- and 2 far-red diodes. The CRI would increase to +90 because of the added deep-reds.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Until the price comes out we can't make that assumption. I'd rather have these than QBs.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I know this post is old @Randomblame but I thought it was funny! Because with the new cutter SolStrips/Skins, you now CAN make your own "horti strip" exactly how you want! And might I say that I HOPE YOU DO!! I would freaking love to see what you come up with.
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I really like them and if shipping and custom fees would not almost double the price I would for sure use them in the best available configuration.
I'm currently trying to persuade the guys from LED-tech.de to create white 2ft strips with 6 integrated monochromatic diodes. 96 diodes in 8s12p and each 2 parallel strings connected to one of the monos. This way the monos would run with 400mA max. while the LM301b run with 200mA maximum, ~25v per strip. 4 diodes and 600mA max. would also work..
But because they sell already white and monochromatic strips separately I don't know if they will really do it.
So for now I'm still optimizing my exsisting light.
Currently I'm adding 12 Osram Square in 660nm and 4 Philips Lumi in 640nm to my exsisting 300w light(2 rows á 8 diodes, at ~600mA drive current, ~30w) and I have finally found a dimmable ballast I can use for the much too strong Agromax pureUV bulbs. Its still the same light you can see in my signature but it has two 24w bulbs already, less maximum output(HLG-320 instead of HLG-240+120) and the additional red/deep-red diodes gets squeezed between the 4 CRI93 COB's and the 3 far-red diodes on each bar.
I will upload new pictures in the user units threads and replace the link in my signature when its done. But because I'm pretty busy currently it will probably take a few weeks or more until its done.
I'm currently trying to persuade the guys from LED-tech.de to create white 2ft strips with 6 integrated monochromatic diodes. 96 diodes in 8s12p and each 2 parallel strings connected to one of the monos. This way the monos would run with 400mA max. while the LM301b run with 200mA maximum, ~25v per strip. 4 diodes and 600mA max. would also work..
But because they sell already white and monochromatic strips separately I don't know if they will really do it.
So for now I'm still optimizing my exsisting light.
Currently I'm adding 12 Osram Square in 660nm and 4 Philips Lumi in 640nm to my exsisting 300w light(2 rows á 8 diodes, at ~600mA drive current, ~30w) and I have finally found a dimmable ballast I can use for the much too strong Agromax pureUV bulbs. Its still the same light you can see in my signature but it has two 24w bulbs already, less maximum output(HLG-320 instead of HLG-240+120) and the additional red/deep-red diodes gets squeezed between the 4 CRI93 COB's and the 3 far-red diodes on each bar.
I will upload new pictures in the user units threads and replace the link in my signature when its done. But because I'm pretty busy currently it will probably take a few weeks or more until its done.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Im getting stuff from cutter this time around. Im getting free shipping and they promised me to underwrite the invoice a bit. I think they can even label it as comercial samples if you work them a bit, but that might mean you have to prove yourself in the eyes of customs.
They have some very interesting products, i had them make a 5050 strip with white, wide blue (400, 450, 470) and phosphor covered 660nm red. 48+48+12 diodes for just over 50 euros, and the white is 5w diodes so should be exceptionally efficient running around 1w a piece.
These cree chips come in 90 cri aswell but i thought it unnecessary with the phosphor red, they have plenty of far red and also covers 680-700 fairly well.