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DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by SupraSPL, Feb 22, 2014.

  1.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

    110
    What would be your recommendation to be able to safely rig this up?
     
  2.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    1:1 transformer, it might not be very efficient though. There is always large losses with induction.

    Otherwise, I'd double insulate the shit out of it, but not recommended, if something goes wrong, it is mains current straight through somebody touching a live surface.
    I light can fall an lay on the floor looking innocent and inconvenient with an internal wire lose, until you try to pick it up and it is live current. Can fuck up your day seriously.

    You don't maybe have an inverter you can use to get the 220VAC from a DC supply?
    Or maybe you can query the seller if they have a 110V version?
     
    Delta-9Pyromaniac likes this.
  3.  
    Dopaw13

    Dopaw13 Well-Known Member

    they have 110 v on ebay just have to look
     
    Delta-9Pyromaniac likes this.
  4.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

    I ordered the 110 version
     
  5.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

    Four 110v driverless LED's, four 12v PC fans. How would I hook this up?
     
  6.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    It is still to be considered very dangerous, make good safe soldered connections with wire knotted and hot glued so it can't get loose.
    find out how much current the fans use, get a wall wart that can put out double that for longevity.
     
    Delta-9Pyromaniac likes this.
  7.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

    I have the hot glue ready. How do I wire and ground that. Do I need a driver? What do I need?
     
  8.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    I thought you are using driverless COB?
    If you didn't get a heatsink yet, get a large PC heatsink, a quality 3mm tap and a 2.5mm drill bit.
    Mark and drill the right spots, and fasten screws half a turn, alternating after tapping. Remember to use thermal paste (as thin as you can get it on).

    It only gains you single digit extra degrees C, but I like lapping my heatsinks and whatever I attach to it. even my PC CPUs get lapped. You take a mirror or glass from a frame or something really flat and hard. spray some contact glue on lightly. stick a sheet of 600 sanding paper on, and give it a light go to see where the low and high spots are. Work them away, and replace sanding paper with finer paper until you eventually get to 1000 to 1500 grit. You will be left with two mirror-like surfaces. Squeegee a seethrough thin layer of thermal paste with a safety blade on the heatsink and place your item to be cooled on with rotational motions to smooth it out.
    You need to take them apart with the same motion, as the capillary action will suck that bitch on like glue.

    Thermal paste is designed to fill microscopic imperfections between two surfaces. Slapping 2mm thick coats on reduces performance.

    THE COLDER YOUR COB IS THE MORE LIGHT IT PUTS OUT.

    I would run ground to the heatsink and any metal that could touch the live wires in the event of an earthquake even.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
    Delta-9Pyromaniac likes this.
  9.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

  10.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

    I'm using what I posted in the link on the last page. 50watt full spectrum driverless Cob. I plan on cooling the lights with small PC fans
     
  11.  
    ANC

    ANC Well-Known Member

    THose look like shit hey.
    999lumens for 50W
    the 23W spiral CFLs I like using for seedling and young vegers are circa 1100lm
     
    HydroRed likes this.
  12.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

    Wow. Looked right over that
     
  13.  
    HydroRed

    HydroRed Well-Known Member


    I actually mentioned this twice in my posts about them being 220V 50W 500-999 lumens (at least the ones @Delta-9Pyromaniac linked in their post) and got bucked the whole time. Those are garbage lights, they wont deliver 999 lumens as advertised, and your gonna spend twice what you saved trying to make them work how you are trying to make them work.
    You coulda bought (4) standard led light bulbs from Home depot for $1 each that would deliver a comparable 750+ actual lumens with 9 watts each. Likely an additional 10% more lumens once you remove the diffuser.
    Lets do some more math now....
    4 bulbs @ 9W = 36W total.
    750 lumens each x 4 bulbs = 3000 lumens.
    Add the additional 10% lumens (300) after the diffuser is removed and you have a total of
    3300 actual lumens at 36W for $4 and you dont have to do anything but screw in a lightbulb..
    DSC_0128 - Copy.JPG
    Good luck with your lights.:peace:
     
    Delta-9Pyromaniac, Dopaw13 and ANC like this.
  14.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

  15.  
    posativek

    posativek New Member

    N2Fg, I'm going to build a 175w light for a 1x1 space (head room no issue as such) and wanted to use 16 x cree 1512 3000k 93cri because they will run perfectly at 10w each, @18v will only require 1 x driver and will be 200w max for $200.

    i cannot workout what the par would be of the light though (ppf etc). I want it to essentially replace 3 x3070's of 3 x 3590's @50w each which isn't optimum for either chip.

    What say you?

    plus I get excellent light coverage from 16 cobs over 3. Im just not sure about the Joule rating and if it is substantially less than say 4 x 2540's (same price for entire unit roughly) or 3 x 3070's I might switch to a more conventional 3-4 cob design for a square room.
     
  16.  
    Canadain Closet Gardener

    Canadain Closet Gardener Well-Known Member

  17.  
    1212ham

    1212ham Well-Known Member

    Yes, you just need to use the dimming function. I used an HLG-185H-48B on 44v Gen-1 strips.
    I will use my HLG-240H-42B for my 19.5 volt Gen-2 strips. Strips will be wired series parallel.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
  18.  
    1212ham

    1212ham Well-Known Member

    I wouldn't.
    Ground the fixture and use a ground fault interrupter. A fuse wouldn't hurt.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
  19.  
    Delta-9Pyromaniac

    Delta-9Pyromaniac Well-Known Member

    I appreciate the response but unfortunately with no experience I have no clue how to do that...? Not sure if I'm even going through with this set up. Thinking of getting luminus cxm22 gen3 90 cri with passive heatsinks. Problem is, because of my lack of experience I don't know what size driver to use.. Can you brake it down in layman's terms so someone with no experience like me can understand?
     
  20.  
    GBAUTO

    GBAUTO Well-Known Member

    Drivers are usually grouped by power output in watts. You need to decide if you want to drive your arrays with either a parallel or series circuit. Once you have decided on the chip you want to use and how hard you want to run each chip that will allow you to choose the driver current for series or forward voltage for parallel. Parallel circuits divide the current equally(hopefully...) between all of the chips in circuit(ie. 300w divided by 6 chips=50w/chip Say the chip has a forward voltage of 50v so it will use 1A of the available current from the driver([email protected]= 6A total current available)). When running parallel driver you also need to make sure that if a cob fails that the remaining cobs can handle the additional power. I run my Vero's in series-makes certain that all of the arrays see the same drive current-downside is higher voltage, especially when running hi wattage drivers.
     
    Delta-9Pyromaniac likes this.

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