DIY with Quantum Boards

BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
You can get way more than 9000 lm from a QB. 65ma is not a normal current for Samsung lm561C. They show that number to make the LEDs look exceptional. I'm not sure anyone runs them that soft. You ever see a led light bulb that's over 100 lms a watt in warm white? QBs can cover a 2x2+ space. If you wanted to run really close and create a solid QB I would recommend drastically lower diode density. 75 LEDs per square ft? If you where really chasing efficiency 150 per square ft would net you really high umol/j figures.
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Oh, okay, so you can get about 93 lm per LED at max power. You'd need about 75 per sq ft at that power then. So a 300 LED board could light a 2'x2' area at high intensity. That's pretty good. Four of them for a 4'x4' tent.

And you're right about the A19 LED bulbs never being over 100 lm/w. Weird. Maybe it's just an AC rectified circuit, like the AC COBs. Or maybe that's how much they put out with the diffusers on. They're a lot brighter when you cut them off. Or is it just because they're cheapo LEDs? The bulbs are made by Osram/Sylvania, so how crappy could they be?
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
Oh, okay, so you can get about 93 lm per LED at max power. You'd need about 75 per sq ft at that power then. So a 300 LED board could light a 2'x2' area at high intensity. That's pretty good. Four of them for a 4'x4' tent.

And you're right about the A19 LED bulbs never being over 100 lm/w. Weird. Maybe it's just an AC rectified circuit, like the AC COBs. Or maybe that's how much they put out with the diffusers on. They're a lot brighter when you cut them off. Or is it just because they're cheapo LEDs? The bulbs are made by Osram/Sylvania, so how crappy could they be?
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Low power drivers suck lol. Then they drive the LEDs as hard as possible to make it cheap. You can bet there is no top bin in those suckers lol. Yes the diffuser probably kills 15-20% .
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
tstick said:
One verrrrry slight criticism that I can see on the 550, is that the boards are riveted to the heatsink panel....Why? Wouldn't it make more sense to use screws -in case there is a need to replace a single board for some reason? Let's say the fixture gets accidentally bumped and something breaks on one of the boards....I'd have to pay shipping to send the entire panel back to HLG for service or replacement. If it was screwed in, then I could just detach the broken one and have them send me a new board and I could screw it in, myself....Or, did I miss a reason for the rivets?
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That is being addressed. We are switching to screws. It is taking time to get in a production screw device. We found it though. Say hello too the Stickscrew IL2000.

 
Blake_n_Concentrates

Blake_n_Concentrates

Well-Known Member
Where do you guys mount your drivers? I mounted mine on top of the tent on a piece of melamine to keep the heat out of the ten, but it scares the shit out of me it gets so got. Should I be concerned about a fire hazard? The driver tends to get to almost 140F! Should I mount to a piece of sheet metal or something?
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
Some of mine are mounted to a piece of plywood that is the screwed to the wall. The other 2 are screwed to the side of a cabinet. Mount them on something and put a fan on them.


Blake_n_Concentrates said:
Where do you guys mount your drivers? I mounted mine on top of the tent on a piece of melamine to keep the heat out of the ten, but it scares the shit out of me it gets so got. Should I be concerned about a fire hazard? The driver tends to get to almost 140F! Should I mount to a piece of sheet metal or something?
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
Won't say how, but today, I saw a QB304 running at at least 2800ma!
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Hey pop
I think i saw the same test video but pretty sure it was a 54V board/288 version. It was on a 54V driver and couldnt take more than 2800 at that voltage. He did however take a 304 all the way up to 2100mA without blowing anything up, but with 100C board temp. Its nice to know that the boards can take beating, this guy was basicly trying (and failing) to blow them up. My favorite bit was "its a shame, its such a nice board but this is for science so lets go a head and fuck this thing up"
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
I saw that! And I beat him! I had one board running on a 320H-c2800...... as I stood gaping at it for a minute or two! Takes a licking and keeps on ticking!

Rocket Soul said:
Hey pop
I think i saw the same test video but pretty sure it was a 54V board/288 version. It was on a 54V driver and couldnt take more than 2800 at that voltage. He did however take a 304 all the way up to 2100mA without blowing anything up, but with 100C board temp. Its nice to know that the boards can take beating, this guy was basicly trying (and failing) to blow them up. My favorite bit was "its a shame, its such a nice board but this is for science so lets go a head and fuck this thing up"
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Discreetdigrowman

Discreetdigrowman

Well-Known Member
robincnn said:
looks great. its working so i guess wiring must be good.
These DC Connectors usually don't have a rating, but whenever i saw rating it said 24V or 30V max.
These may not be ideal for 100+volts. it may work fine if you don't disconnect-reconnect the connectors with power on.
we used same connector on QB 120 design and that is why we kept it at 24V
View attachment 3987618
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I see i would rather a nice 600v rating but it would be fine for my 48v lights, i try never to disconnect live
 
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