DIY with Quantum Boards

pop22

Well-Known Member
No your asking the wrong question, or so it seems because you already know the answer I'm willing to bet. If you can find this type of information then you should have long ago discover the question is: what PPFD level should I have for X size space, with strain ABC, and running CO2. Fill it in with your information. the same question applies to ALL forms of garden lighting, not to any one type or brand. Its up to you to know your speace and learn the limits of the genetics you grow.

I'm sure HLG could provide the answer Fluence gave, if they had their money and R&D department. These guys are building a business from a small startup.

How many QB boards is too much is like asking how much beer is too much...



Found this on the fluence led (spyder) website. Nothing new but important nonetheless ...

"So long as carbon dioxide, water, and nutrients are not limiting growth of the plant and it is a fast-growing species, higher light intensities will result in faster growth and increased production of secondary metabolites. However, too high of a light intensity can be damaging to cells, especially in sensitive species, producing free radicals such as hydrogen peroxide within cells. On the surface, you might notice this effect as photobleaching (tan to white patches on leaves) if the plant is not photoacclimated to that intensity. Many growers notice this issue when they are transferring plants from a seedling propagation or rooting phase in which light intensity is low, into a highly productive phase under high light intensity. As a part of the photoacclimation process, highly productive or fast-growing species will likely accumulate more chlorophyll to harvest more light. If intensity is too high, production of various carotenoids (for more info, refer to […pigments & photoreceptors]) is increased to protect the photosynthetic reaction centers and dissipate some light.

(They continue on with)

**** This is why increasing light intensity can have diminishing returns since more light is dissipated in response to higher light intensity **** ...

(Exactly why I've been asking the questions that the "experts" on this thread are refusing to answer for some reason. Listen Im not here to line your pockets. Im here to give my plants the PROPER amount of light and I've yet to hear anyone discussing this on this thread)

To photoacclimate your plants productively with little to no photobleaching (which inhibits growth), it is best to incrementally increase light intensity or use a shade cloth for a week or two. Slowly acclimating plants to higher light intensities can be achieved using dimmable lights after determining what your desired PPFD will be (depending on your fixture capability and species) and creating a series of incremental increases in intensity (beginning slightly above the propagation intensity) over time. A less sophisticated way to achieve this same outcome (if your lights are not capable of dimming) would require you to start with the plant-lamp separation distance much larger than desired and then slowly move the lamp closer to the plants (or vice versa) over the same duration.

As previously mentioned, anthocyanins can accumulate in leaves of many species in response to blue or UV light of sufficient intensity. A similar mechanism protects the fruit of some crops such as tomatoes and peppers. When growing green peppers, you may notice that some fruit surfaces exposed to more light have patches of yellow to orange coloration. This accumulation of photoprotectivecarotenoids prevents damage to the fruit. Lycopene, an orange to red carotenoid, plays a similar role in tomato fruits. Just like most other light-induced secondary metabolites, production of these carotenoids occurs at a faster rate as light intensity increases.

CONCLUSION
We know that the proportion of wavelengths supplied to plants as well as intensity completely changes the photomorphogenic outcomes as well as phytochemical concentrations (secondary metabolites). Increasing light intensity induces production of various secondary metabolites in plants as a form of protection. Blue and UV light have the most powerful influence on secondary metabolism relative to other wavelengths and this scales with intensity. From a production standpoint, these metabolites often improve product quality both due to their medicinal benefits in humans as well as crop coloring effects. This differs depending on the genetics at play with much variability among species. Some species are more tolerant to this response and require higher light intensities to show any response while others do not. One proven method to “get the best of both worlds” is to utilize an EOP treatment in which plants grow and develop under optimal conditions for primary metabolism (broad spectrum), and are then transferred beneath a secondary metabolism promoting light treatment (higher intensity or specific wavelengths) prior to harvest after major crop growth has occurred. Overall, the most important aspect to remember is that secondary metabolism diverts resources away from plant growth. When selecting or making any changes to your lighting system, consider these innate plant responses to ensure your system is optimal for your intended species and market.

(All Im asking is how much quantum board led light is considered too much light? In turn becoming counterproductive to what it is we're attempting to acheive here. Fluence led obviously has no problem whatsoever discussing the subject. I've yet to hear from the experts on this thread concerning the subject)
 

Little Dog

Well-Known Member
No your asking the wrong question, or so it seems because you already know the answer I'm willing to bet. If you can find this type of information then you should have long ago discover the question is: what PPFD level should I have for X size space, with strain ABC, and running CO2. Fill it in with your information. the same question applies to ALL forms of garden lighting, not to any one type or brand. Its up to you to know your speace and learn the limits of the genetics you grow.

I'm sure HLG could provide the answer Fluence gave, if they had their money and R&D department. These guys are building a business from a small startup.

How many QB boards is too much is like asking how much beer is too much...
You’re right @pop22! Thanks man.
 

Sleezygeezy

Well-Known Member
Anything in front of the light source will diminish it. Even clear glass. Although I ran my hps behind the glass, and I grew that way for years. I'm gonna run my qb's behind the glass too. I figure I can deal with the light loss for a better cooling efficiency as I always have. It was 100°f outside today where I live. So for now, my build is going behind the glass. I'll find the picture from @Stephenj37826 with his design. Mine will basically be the same but with 2 boards instead of 4.
 

Little Dog

Well-Known Member
Anything in front of the light source will diminish it. Even clear glass. Although I ran my hps behind the glass, and I grew that way for years. I'm gonna run my qb's behind the glass too. I figure I can deal with the light loss for a better cooling efficiency as I always have. It was 100°f outside today where I live. So for now, my build is going behind the glass. I'll find the picture from @Stephenj37826 with his design. Mine will basically be the same but with 2 boards instead of 4.
That’s enough for me. I’m convinced. Always good to hear another voice. Thanks man.
 

619kt619

Well-Known Member
I don't know. Look at the bud. Are yours coming out better?
You are missing the point. Was your first run with HPS like your runs that you pull now? or did you have to refine how you grew, along with added techniques and historical data to get to where you are now?

Make the adjustments, ask for advice and run with it. It will work for you
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Found this on the fluence led (spyder) website. Nothing new but important nonetheless ...

"So long as carbon dioxide, water, and nutrients are not limiting growth of the plant and it is a fast-growing species, higher light intensities will result in faster growth and increased production of secondary metabolites. However, too high of a light intensity can be damaging to cells, especially in sensitive species, producing free radicals such as hydrogen peroxide within cells. On the surface, you might notice this effect as photobleaching (tan to white patches on leaves) if the plant is not photoacclimated to that intensity. Many growers notice this issue when they are transferring plants from a seedling propagation or rooting phase in which light intensity is low, into a highly productive phase under high light intensity. As a part of the photoacclimation process, highly productive or fast-growing species will likely accumulate more chlorophyll to harvest more light. If intensity is too high, production of various carotenoids (for more info, refer to […pigments & photoreceptors]) is increased to protect the photosynthetic reaction centers and dissipate some light.

(They continue on with)

**** This is why increasing light intensity can have diminishing returns since more light is dissipated in response to higher light intensity **** ...

(Exactly why I've been asking the questions that the "experts" on this thread are refusing to answer for some reason. Listen Im not here to line your pockets. Im here to give my plants the PROPER amount of light and I've yet to hear anyone discussing this on this thread)

To photoacclimate your plants productively with little to no photobleaching (which inhibits growth), it is best to incrementally increase light intensity or use a shade cloth for a week or two. Slowly acclimating plants to higher light intensities can be achieved using dimmable lights after determining what your desired PPFD will be (depending on your fixture capability and species) and creating a series of incremental increases in intensity (beginning slightly above the propagation intensity) over time. A less sophisticated way to achieve this same outcome (if your lights are not capable of dimming) would require you to start with the plant-lamp separation distance much larger than desired and then slowly move the lamp closer to the plants (or vice versa) over the same duration.

As previously mentioned, anthocyanins can accumulate in leaves of many species in response to blue or UV light of sufficient intensity. A similar mechanism protects the fruit of some crops such as tomatoes and peppers. When growing green peppers, you may notice that some fruit surfaces exposed to more light have patches of yellow to orange coloration. This accumulation of photoprotectivecarotenoids prevents damage to the fruit. Lycopene, an orange to red carotenoid, plays a similar role in tomato fruits. Just like most other light-induced secondary metabolites, production of these carotenoids occurs at a faster rate as light intensity increases.

CONCLUSION
We know that the proportion of wavelengths supplied to plants as well as intensity completely changes the photomorphogenic outcomes as well as phytochemical concentrations (secondary metabolites). Increasing light intensity induces production of various secondary metabolites in plants as a form of protection. Blue and UV light have the most powerful influence on secondary metabolism relative to other wavelengths and this scales with intensity. From a production standpoint, these metabolites often improve product quality both due to their medicinal benefits in humans as well as crop coloring effects. This differs depending on the genetics at play with much variability among species. Some species are more tolerant to this response and require higher light intensities to show any response while others do not. One proven method to “get the best of both worlds” is to utilize an EOP treatment in which plants grow and develop under optimal conditions for primary metabolism (broad spectrum), and are then transferred beneath a secondary metabolism promoting light treatment (higher intensity or specific wavelengths) prior to harvest after major crop growth has occurred. Overall, the most important aspect to remember is that secondary metabolism diverts resources away from plant growth. When selecting or making any changes to your lighting system, consider these innate plant responses to ensure your system is optimal for your intended species and market.

(All Im asking is how much quantum board led light is considered too much light? In turn becoming counterproductive to what it is we're attempting to acheive here. Fluence led obviously has no problem whatsoever discussing the subject. I've yet to hear from the experts on this thread concerning the subject)
Very educational... I will take this and run with it!!!
 

DonnyDee

Well-Known Member
Hey @Sleezygeezy! One more question. Would the intensity of the diode be diminished enough to matter if the glass was left on the hood? The heatsink and qb’s would be behind glass. I can mount the heatsink and driver inside the hood without putting any undo pressure on the glass. I was gonna take the glass out and use aluminum with the boards framed within the aluminum. But leaving the glass in would make it lots easier and quicker to do. Any thoughts on that?
Hey man I'd like to chime in here. Because LEDs don't emit much infrared light, it's actually beneficial to run the room a little warmer than you would HPS, to compensate so that the leaves still have the right surface temperature. This gets even more important at high intensities. More light needs more heat needs more CO2. Depending on your climate, you may end up getting better results by keeping the heat wattage in the space - that's definitely been the case for me.
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
Those 600H kits come with a HLG-600H-54B??
11.2A 27 ~ 54 V Constant Current
That doesnt seem like a good driver choice for 4x 288 boards does it? Thats pushing 600 watts to 300w worth of boards.. am I missing something here?

EDIT:
Oh.. i was looking at wrong specs i guess??
the V2 specs makes more sense.. but i still hope he got the dimmer. That driver will push them at full power.

49.86v 2800ma 139w
 
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Humple

Well-Known Member
Those 600H kits come with a HLG-600H-54B??
11.2A 27 ~ 54 V Constant Current
That doesnt seem like a good driver choice for 4x 288 boards does it? Thats pushing 600 watts to 300w worth of boards.. am I missing something here?
A single 288 will run at 150 watts all day.
 

Little Dog

Well-Known Member
Hey man I'd like to chime in here. Because LEDs don't emit much infrared light, it's actually beneficial to run the room a little warmer than you would HPS, to compensate so that the leaves still have the right surface temperature. This gets even more important at high intensities. More light needs more heat needs more CO2. Depending on your climate, you may end up getting better results by keeping the heat wattage in the space - that's definitely been the case for me.
Wow, another dad gum variable! Only kidding, I’m gonna start by just placing two HLG- 260’s in each hood. They fit about perfect. (Actually three would fit perfect.) And just go from there. But I can appreciate your mindset. I’m pretty open in my thinking right now. Yeah, I’d love to set aside the hoods, ducts, all that stuff. I can see where that could happen eventually. Just one little step at a time. Again, appreciate the input. Gonna definitely keep “to low a temp” in mind. Thanks.
 
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Ryante55

Well-Known Member
Those 600H kits come with a HLG-600H-54B??
11.2A 27 ~ 54 V Constant Current
That doesnt seem like a good driver choice for 4x 288 boards does it? Thats pushing 600 watts to 300w worth of boards.. am I missing something here?

EDIT:
Oh.. i was looking at wrong specs i guess??
the V2 specs makes more sense.. but i still hope he got the dimmer. That driver will push them at full power.

49.86v 2800ma 139w
What? Pretty sure that's a perfect driver fit for 4 boards what driver would you use?
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
What? Pretty sure that's a perfect driver fit for 4 boards what driver would you use?
Personally, id run like a 320H-C2800B or 480H-C3500B and wire the boards in series parallel and run them lower for efficiency. There are a lot of options, the 600s are just really expensive drivers at $170-180. Ive been doing a lot of reading on these and havent seen many people running them anywhere near full power.

Even running 2x 240H-54B drivers at $60/piece would be a better option imo..
54v output and 4.4a of current so each board gets 2200ma and still get great output without running your lights at full power.
Im big on efficiency and gettings best performance for the money both short and long term.
 
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pop22

Well-Known Member
Lots of pics please! Others have done similar but this is a great idea for people who have hoods and the room to use them!


Wow, another dad gum variable! Only kidding, I’m gonna start by just placing two HLG- 260’s in each hood. They fit about perfect. (Actually three would fit perfect.) And just go from there. But I can appreciate your mindset. I’m pretty open in my thinking right now. Yeah, I’d love to set aside the hoods, ducts, all that stuff. I can see where that could happen eventually. Just one little step at a time. Again, appreciate the input. Gonna definitely keep “to low a temp”in mind. Thanks.
 

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
Personally, id run like a 320H-C2800B or 480H-C3500B and wire the boards in series parallel and run them lower for efficiency. There are a lot of options, the 600s are just really expensive drivers at $170-180. Ive been doing a lot of reading on these and havent seen many people running them anywhere near full power.

Even running 2x 240H-54B drivers at $60/piece would be a better option imo..
54v output and 4.4a of current so each board gets 2200ma and still get great output without running your lights at full power.
Im big on efficiency and gettings best performance for the money both short and long term.
So your saying it's better to buy 2 260w kits the 600 isn't the only kit avalible. I get what your saying just seems silly that you want them to change 1 product to be almost exactly the same as a different product they offer. Also if you dim a 600 kit you have to lower it reducing the spread significantly. If I were you I would just trust that the owners of the company know what they are doing.
 
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