Do I add lime to peat moss ?

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southbayLA154

Well-Known Member
The sunshine peat moss bale is coming out at 6.0 ph .. should I add lime when mixing if so how much? I am using a ratio of 3-1-1 same as my seedling mix since I have trouble with over watering ..

But my question is if I should I add lime if the ph of the peat moss is 6.0 if so how much per gallon 1/2 tbs -2tbs which amount should I use
 

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thumper60

thumper60

Well-Known Member
southbayLA154 said:
The sunshine peat moss bale is coming out at 6.0 ph .. should I add lime when mixing if so how much? I am using a ratio of 3-1-1 same as my seedling mix since I have trouble with over watering ..

But my question is if I should I add lime if the ph of the peat moss is 6.0 if so how much per gallon 1/2 tbs -2tbs which amount should I use
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It cant hurt peat mixes can go sour towards the end of a grow 3 months. I grow in promix learned long time ago 2 cups of lime per 3.8 bale saves me lots of problems later on.
 
Milky Weed

Milky Weed

Well-Known Member
I would be estatic if my ph was 6. Heck, if you were planning on just watering in nutrients making it more like Soiless growing, that’s about spot on perfect. Maybe a bit high for veg actually. Most of my soiless seems buffered above 6.0
 
J.U.N.O

J.U.N.O

New Member
I'd have to agree with Thumper. Peat moss is very acidic as it breaks down and you will definitely need to correct ph issues down the line. I only use high peat moss mixes for azaleas and blueberry bushes as they love acidic soil.
 
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Northwood

Well-Known Member
thumper60 said:
It cant hurt peat mixes can go sour towards the end of a grow 3 months. I grow in promix learned long time ago 2 cups of lime per 3.8 bale saves me lots of problems later on.
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I didn't add lime to mine. I've been growing cycle after cycle for nearly 5 years straight now without changing the soil or disturbing it indoors. With organic matter additions mostly in the form of timothy hay mulch, plus some alfalfa pellets every 2nd cycle, it seems to be doing okay. The pH has actually risen to about 6.4. That was Pro-Mix Organic Herb and Vegetable.
 
Herb & Suds

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
J.U.N.O said:
I'd have to agree with Thumper. Peat moss is very acidic as it breaks down and you will definitely need to correct ph issues down the line. I only use high peat moss mixes for azaleas and blueberry bushes as they love acidic soil.
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You are wrong
What are you saying and provide proof?
Cause I have nothing but good controlling ec and ignoring ph
 
thumper60

thumper60

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
I didn't add lime to mine. I've been growing cycle after cycle for nearly 5 years straight now without changing the soil or disturbing it indoors. With organic matter additions mostly in the form of timothy hay mulch, plus some alfalfa pellets every 2nd cycle, it seems to be doing okay. The pH has actually risen to about 6.4. That was Pro-Mix Organic Herb and Vegetable.
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Sounds to me you have turned soiless to soil,You cant just keep using promix or sunshine over an over with out adding things.
 
thumper60

thumper60

Well-Known Member
Herb & Suds said:
You are wrong
What are you saying and provide proof?
Cause I have nothing but good controlling ec and ignoring ph
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Are you saying you reuse promix-sunshine4 over an over without adding anything? Not happening. They both have barely enough lime for 1 cycle, plus this poster says sunshine peat moss not sunshine mix #4 2 differnt beast.
 
jimihendrix1

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
PROMIX BX/HP uses a mix of Calcitic, and Dolomitic lime.
2/3 Parts Calcitic, to 1/3 Partss Dolomitic. Calcitic changes the PH faster, and Dolomitic breaks down slower. Also gives a good mix of Calcium, and Magnesium to mix them like this.
 
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Northwood

Well-Known Member
thumper60 said:
Yes peat BASED soil so he has a buffer.promix-sunshine4 is soilless once run thur a 3 month cycle the buffer =lime is used up.
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Near the end of my first cycle I did add hen manure pellets to the top, and mulched over it with hay. Hen manure can have a really high pH and adds significant calcium also. But I've only added the manure twice in the life of my soilless medium. The microbiology itself can be your greatest buffer as long as the initial pH isn't so far off that it would inhibit the ability of your soil life to thrive. I think the continual addition of raw organic matter really helps in this regard, and of course even the plants themselves can regulate pH to an extent within the rhizosphere. I would certainly advise against routinely adding lime to your no-till grow every cycle if everything looks fine. If everything doesn't look fine, I'd suggest a soil test before deciding on any further course of action.
 
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Northwood

Well-Known Member
thumper60 said:
Are you saying you reuse promix-sunshine4 over an over without adding anything? Not happening. They both have barely enough lime for 1 cycle, plus this poster says sunshine peat moss not sunshine mix #4 2 differnt beast.
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No, I said I didn't add any lime or other mineral-based buffers. Obviously I added stuff to the top - mainly raw organic material such as timothy hay mulch (every cycle), some hen manure pellets (twice only), and usually some alfalfa pellets every second cycle. Oh, and also the cannabis plant biomass of my last grow (stems and leaves, bubble hash leftover, squish pucks, etc.) are added as well. Nothing else. No teas, no nutes, no cal-mag, no nothing but water. So yeah, it's happening - for years now.
 
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Markshomegrown

Well-Known Member
My compost has a high amount of peat moss, I add 1tbsp garden lime in 16ltrs of compost(my understanding is it keeps the ph in range) with other dried plant food, my results are good, I don't ph my water or check the EC level, it works really well.
 
thumper60

thumper60

Well-Known Member
Northwood said:
Near the end of my first cycle I did add hen manure pellets to the top, and mulched over it with hay. Hen manure can have a really high pH and adds significant calcium also. But I've only added the manure twice in the life of my soilless medium. The microbiology itself can be your greatest buffer as long as the initial pH isn't so far off that it would inhibit the ability of your soil life to thrive. I think the continual addition of raw organic matter really helps in this regard, and of course even the plants themselves can regulate pH to an extent within the rhizosphere. I would certainly advise against routinely adding lime to your no-till grow every cycle if everything looks fine. If everything doesn't look fine, I'd suggest a soil test before deciding on any further course of action.
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last time i checked this was a bout growing in peat not no till, You have added a bunch of stuff to ya peat like i said? I agree with much of what ya saying but does not answer the ?
 
hillbill

hillbill

Well-Known Member
ProMoss or any other SPM gets 1 Tbs of each Dolomite and Calcitic per gallon. here, most Peat Moss is much lower than six.
 
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Northwood

Well-Known Member
thumper60 said:
last time i checked this was a bout growing in peat not no till, You have added a bunch of stuff to ya peat like i said? I agree with much of what ya saying but does not answer the ?
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Peat moss is the growing medium. No-till is a method. And no, I didn't add any lime or other mineral-based pH buffer except that which was initially in the Promix to begin with. Most peat moss sold as a growing medium (such as the Promix line) is pre-buffered. Is that clearer?
 
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