Don't underestimate Reptiles AKA UVB

Uncle Tom

Member
I read an article somewhere where it states that early harvest result in more THC than CBD, and longer curing result in less THC and more CBD as the THC degrade into one of the CBD forms anyone had any experience with this?
The only thing I remember advocating a longer cure, was the Cannabible II. They claimed a 4+ month cure developed more and varied terpenes, giving it better smell & taste, like aging a fine wine...I swore it was a typo (4 MONTHS!?) until I saw it was consistent through 4 or 5 times mentioned in this, predominantly, picture book! They must be some incredibly Patient dopers!
 

420Hazza

Active Member
The only thing I remember advocating a longer cure, was the Cannabible II. They claimed a 4+ month cure developed more and varied terpenes, giving it better smell & taste, like aging a fine wine...I swore it was a typo (4 MONTHS!?) until I saw it was consistent through 4 or 5 times mentioned in this, predominantly, picture book! They must be some incredibly Patient dopers!
Yeh 4months is ages mate
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Ok, Hyroot...I googled the first part & got your Spanish seed co.! Cannatonic strain, & Love their chart! Talk about variation from plant to plant! But amazing levels of cbd, still having close to 10% THC along with it in some cases! Thanks! Good luck with yours!
cannatonic won 1st place for best cbd at the Amsterdam cannabis cup and the Spanish Cup. The others I have are tester strains. Drom tga genetics. Sour tsunami x querkle and Oaxaca Gold x querkle. Sour tsunami is sour diesel backcrossed with itself then x with Ferrari and that's a high cbd. All I could find on Oaxaca is that is a landrace from Mexico decades ago. Its high cbd as well.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
The only thing I remember advocating a longer cure, was the Cannabible II. They claimed a 4+ month cure developed more and varied terpenes, giving it better smell & taste, like aging a fine wine...I swore it was a typo (4 MONTHS!?) until I saw it was consistent through 4 or 5 times mentioned in this, predominantly, picture book! They must be some incredibly Patient dopers!
3 month minimum cure for proper polymerization of terpenes and complete. Decarboxylation.

chopping early or chopping too late will result in lower THC and cbd. You want hit that window of when the trichs turn cloudy and a little amber and when the brown hairs reced into the calyx as they swell.
 

Uncle Tom

Member
3 month minimum cure for proper polymerization of terpenes and complete. Decarboxylation.

chopping early or chopping too late will result in lower THC and cbd. You want hit that window of when the trichs turn cloudy and a little amber and when the brown hairs reced into the calyx as they swell.
Burning it is how we decarboxylate,... keep it in the dark if you cure that long...ever tried it?
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Burning it is how we decarboxylate,... keep it in the dark if you cure that long...ever tried it?
I always cure for a couple of months. Decarbing is the release of co2 gases and depletion of chlorophyll In turn THC increase and as well as terpene polymerization. Burning it doesn't do that. Burning it converts thca and cbns
 

Uncle Tom

Member
I always cure for a couple of months. Decarbing is the release of co2 gases and depletion of chlorophyll In turn THC increase and as well as terpene polymerization. Burning it doesn't do that. Burning it converts thca and cbns
Source? The lab tells me burning is the only sure method of decarb...?(ie it is a chemical reaction to release a co2 molecule from THCa, not just drying it)
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Source? The lab tells me burning is the only sure method of decarb...?(ie it is a chemical reaction to release a co2 molecule from THCa, not just drying it)
curing isn't really drying. The whole point is of curing is utilizing humididty and the natural bacteria to decarboxylate. and rid buds of chlorophyll.
 

Uncle Tom

Member
curing isn't really drying. The whole point is of curing is utilizing humididty and the natural bacteria to decarboxylate. and rid buds of chlorophyll.
Cool, thx! Now...how do you keep it from drying out too quickly, without having it mold? Or do you dry it , say, half way & Then cure slowly over time? (The time I tried it several years ago, I saw a mold issue)
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I have noticed that I get the best flavor after about 2 weeks in the jar. Once a month or two goes by a lot of the sweet terpenes disappear and it seems like potency decreases. I have come across weed that doesn't taste good in the first place (farmy grassy harsh bland) and a long cure helps a little, but no amount of cure turns it into dank. So my theory is, if it needs a long cure I did something wrong (overferted) or the geno is not a keeper.

My strategy has been to hang dry it for 7-10 days at 60% RH. Once the buds snap off the stem and the buds feel rock hard, they go into the jar. After a few days in the jar they are ready to rock.
 
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hyroot

Well-Known Member
Cool, thx! Now...how do you keep it from drying out too quickly, without having it mold? Or do you dry it , say, half way & Then cure slowly over time? (The time I tried it several years ago, I saw a mold issue)
i don't let them completely dry before putting them in the jar. I only burp them once every 2 weeks. Imo the longer the jars can go with out being open the better the flavor. If you make hash with dry trim. Same thing goes for the trim with curing. Kyle kushman said on a weed nerd ep a while ago. He keeps his jars closed for a whole year. But curing will in no way improve quality. If they are shitty off the bat. Curing won't fix that. Curing is part of the whole grow process though .A lot of growers don't realize that. Don't cure.

I have never had mold. Maybe your buds had too much moiture in the center and too dense and the moisture was not able to redistribute evenly. If they do get too dry. Just throw a couple fresh canna leaves in the jar for a few hours.

some people use hygrometers in the jar and try to control humidity. I don't. Imo all you have to do is make sure the jars stay in a cool dark place. No heat.
 
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420Hazza

Active Member
This topic is getting interesting, looks like we all got to learn bits and blobs about curing our yields, after all it's all we are after a decent smoke
 

Letstrip

Well-Known Member
reptile t5's. Also CMH and induction have about 3%-5% uvb so can be ran the whole time. Reptile bulbs put out 10% uvb so should be only ran in a 5hour cycle.
Awesome thanks hyroot, so do you just add the t5's to your light set up but run them for only 5 hours per day during the12/12 flowering?
 

Uncle Tom

Member
What kinda lights best mimic uvb?
I got a tanning bed to try first (See lab test results, posted above), but now I am experimenting with bulbs that go into regular shoplight fixtures, up to 40w ballast, from tanninglamps4less.com. It will still be a month before I can get new samples to the lab.
I know when I looked at reptile lights, they were low wattage(25w or less?) and I was trying to go by Rosenthal's guidelines of 100w tanning light for every 1000w HPS. (For last 2 weeks...current experiment is about 80w/1k for last 4 weeks, and then will see if 80w/1k for last 6 weeks(more than half!) still shows improvement...may be Christmas b4 I'm done
(This is per contact at T4less, Dennis Brown, who told me growers are working on less UVb wattage for more flowering time. Ultimately, he said they are working on an invisible UVb source that u would just leave on all the time! Cannot do that yet, as the way they generate UVb now is with a lower frequency light passing through a coating stimulating the UVb, however, that other light is what acts as light pollution while flowering)
 

420Hazza

Active Member
I got a tanning bed to try first (See lab test results, posted above), but now I am experimenting with bulbs that go into regular shoplight fixtures, up to 40w ballast, from tanninglamps4less.com. It will still be a month before I can get new samples to the lab.
I know when I looked at reptile lights, they were low wattage(25w or less?) and I was trying to go by Rosenthal's guidelines of 100w tanning light for every 1000w HPS. (For last 2 weeks...current experiment is about 80w/1k for last 4 weeks, and then will see if 80w/1k for last 6 weeks(more than half!) still shows improvement...may be Christmas b4 I'm done
(This is per contact at T4less, Dennis Brown, who told me growers are working on less UVb wattage for more flowering time. Ultimately, he said they are working on an invisible UVb source that u would just leave on all the time! Cannot do that yet, as the way they generate UVb now is with a lower frequency light passing through a coating stimulating the UVb, however, that other light is what acts as light pollution while flowering)
go for it mate curious about the results eventually I think it will be potent stuff :D
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Awesome thanks hyroot, so do you just add the t5's to your light set up but run them for only 5 hours per day during the12/12 flowering?

i dont use the t5's I know a few people who do. I run Inda gro induction / led . The induction bulbs have enough uvb imo. I may add some t5's eventually. currently I'm on a diy led trip now. Currently my extra money is going to that . The uvb can be ran during veg and flower. Uv actually helps promote growth in general too. With the reptile bulbs no more than 5 hours per day
 

Uncle Tom

Member
i dont use the t5's I know a few people who do. I run Inda gro induction / led . The induction bulbs have enough uvb imo. I may add some t5's eventually. currently I'm on a diy led trip now. Currently my extra money is going to that . The uvb can be ran during veg and flower. Uv actually helps promote growth in general too. With the reptile bulbs no more than 5 hours per day
Nice, thx!
 
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