Drip hydro nutrient vs Athena vs Jack

K

klausman

New Member
Drop That Sound said:
Never tried those.

I would try out some of the other Jacks blends at least, like their finish, or bloom nutrient product with less N before I started paying for bottles of water again though...

Jacks A&B with a dash of epsoms grows about as good of plants as anything else I've ever used, and I've tried dozens of hydro nute lines. I've never noticed a nitrogen toxicity or anything like that, but then again I only feed what the plants seem to want.

I still have an almost full bottle of kool bloom that's like 5 years old now, and doubt i'll ever really use it..
Click to expand...
+rep
 
C

Cannabis_For_Life

Member
What ph is everyone running with jacks and coco?
I have beening bouncing between sources.
I believe I have a solid feed chart for a modified jacks 321 by using others as guide points
And using JR Peter's University's recommended ppm chart combined with the hydrobuddy nutrient calculator.
I have been running jacks with this method at 3.9 / 2.6 / 1.4 in RODI water [0 ppms] at an EC Of 2.0 - 2.1 for Veg.
And I plan on running Bloom @ 5 / 2 / 1 at an EC close to 2.2 - 2.3
And late bloom at the last 3 weeks before flush will be a 5 / 1 / 1
Almost spot on to athena Bloom but ofc less calcuim which is everyone's battle but I believe 50ppms is enough.

These numbers seem optimal for late veg and I have seen no signs of toxicity. I know I'm not pushing ppms too high or too low in any certain category.
But with water at 5.8 ph. And I have magnesium and possibly calcium deficiencies.

Note: these issues started to show when I was also running 3.6/2.4/1.2 @ 5.8ph

I buffered my coco for 2 days so no worries there. I also know the rumor of LEDS robbing the plant of magnesium but my ppms are well into the higher range and nutrients shouldn't be an issue. I can only narrow it to ph.

I came here just to drop in my observation on jacks ratios to what I believe is correct.
But I would like to also ask for help and recommendations
The plants were sleeping when I took these photos.
 

Attachments

kratosxxl

kratosxxl

Well-Known Member
Cannabis_For_Life said:
What ph is everyone running with jacks and coco?
I have beening bouncing between sources.
I believe I have a solid feed chart for a modified jacks 321 by using others as guide points
And using JR Peter's University's recommended ppm chart combined with the hydrobuddy nutrient calculator.
I have been running jacks with this method at 3.9 / 2.6 / 1.4 in RODI water [0 ppms] at an EC Of 2.0 - 2.1 for Veg.
And I plan on running Bloom @ 5 / 2 / 1 at an EC close to 2.2 - 2.3
And late bloom at the last 3 weeks before flush will be a 5 / 1 / 1
Almost spot on to athena Bloom but ofc less calcuim which is everyone's battle but I believe 50ppms is enough.

These numbers seem optimal for late veg and I have seen no signs of toxicity. I know I'm not pushing ppms too high or too low in any certain category.
But with water at 5.8 ph. And I have magnesium and possibly calcium deficiencies.

Note: these issues started to show when I was also running 3.6/2.4/1.2 @ 5.8ph

I buffered my coco for 2 days so no worries there. I also know the rumor of LEDS robbing the plant of magnesium but my ppms are well into the higher range and nutrients shouldn't be an issue. I can only narrow it to ph.

I came here just to drop in my observation on jacks ratios to what I believe is correct.
But I would like to also ask for help and recommendations
The plants were sleeping when I took these photos.
Click to expand...
I always run 6 in coco. Everytime i do 5.8 i get cal and mag deficiency so 6 from start to finish.
 
C

Cannabis_For_Life

Member
kratosxxl said:
I always run 6 in coco. Everytime i do 5.8 i get cal and mag deficiency so 6 from start to finish.
Click to expand...
This Is what I had planned on adjusting.
I see people use 5 to 7 ph with no issues. But everyone has their own reasons. It's seems to me coco should be treated as a soil and not a hydro like the whole internet claims.
I've fed the last 3 days with 6 at the same 2 ec. So I'll keep updates on how it goes. Thanks alot. Seems I was on the right path. I always beat myself up over this stuff.
 
kratosxxl

kratosxxl

Well-Known Member
Cannabis_For_Life said:
This Is what I had planned on adjusting.
I see people use 5 to 7 ph with no issues. But everyone has their own reasons. It's seems to me coco should be treated as a soil and not a hydro like the whole internet claims.
I've fed the last 3 days with 6 at the same 2 ec. So I'll keep updates on how it goes. Thanks alot. Seems I was on the right path. I always beat myself up over this stuff.
Click to expand...
yup that should work. Highest i went was 6.4 look ok but i went down to 6.
 
R

Roguedawg

Well-Known Member
Thats abiotic problem not your fert. or pH. Probably too high VPD, or fertigation frequency. If you check roots and they look good its abiotic at that high of EC.
 
C

Cannabis_For_Life

Member
Roguedawg said:
Thats abiotic problem not your fert. or pH. Probably too high VPD, or fertigation frequency. If you check roots and they look good its abiotic at that high of EC.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. You might be on the right track. Inside temps and rh are wild but I never thought it could cause such issues. My fertigation frequency could be faster. It's about every 3 days and roots are still matting and white. I believe you completely I would just like to learn how you came to this conclusion? Vpd seems to be part of the culprit.
I'd like to be able to spot it in the future.
 
R

Roguedawg

Well-Known Member
I would have first said your coco is not charged yet but you said you had soaked it. But if you are only fertigating every 3 days thats the main problem. If you mean every 3 days try once a day and if you are worried about over watering before you do it pick a pot up and tilt it to see if water drips out. Or if there are roots coming out bottom of pot go to once a day. I charge my coco also but i still have to feed a few high EC fertigations 2EC the first few times and I am using 2gal nursery pots and fertigating once per day from beginning. And multiple times by the end. Raising temps and humidity {around 82f and 70 rh} would help alot also. I came to that conclusion because you are feeding everything it needs, it has to be either a not ideal environment, root problem, or fertigation frequency issue {which will look like uncharged coco}. Sounds like fertigation frequency is main problem which is easy to fix. Those pots look large, but i see you cant really drain to waste easy, so thats probably your best bet. I would thin it to 4 plants get them green fast as I could and flip. They can green up in a day or two.

Bk 78 if you see this i will put harvest pics in Bodhi forum in a week or 2
 
C

Cannabis_For_Life

Member
I've always been scared of watering everyday no matter root size. Even on these 2 month old plants. They wilt badly after a soak with 10% runoff. I'm trying my best to trust the system. I don't see an issue if the coco is refreshed daily. But I see everyone watering daily.
Def would help on medium ph rise.
So I raised my lights the fix the vpd and ppfd.
Because they're not uptaking I figured the ppfd might be too strong. These lights are 800 ppfd at 16 inches.
They were prob at 18 inches so I raised them. Lowered the leaf temp to match the rh I consistently have for now.
This is a review and test of the lights I'm using. I Believe they might still be on sale for 60$ on Amazon. A steal.

As far as fertigation, I do have a setup coming in 3 days. I ordered individual drain trays to run a drain to waste. all I need is drippers. Still hand watering atm
 

Attachments

R

Roguedawg

Well-Known Member
Drain tray will make it easy on you. new Pics they look a lot more perked up, coco looks real dry to me. If you end up thinning a few wait untill they get crowded, the extra plants and pots will help raise humidity. Just looked at other pics you can be once a day for sure, I see you got them tied down, they are pretty big. You may need twice a day in a week. It would be difficult to overwater those now dont be scared. I use one tent for testing and its always difficult to maintain temp and humidity, at least in a humid climate. You just have to do the best you can.
 
C

Cannabis_For_Life

Member
These are a new strain I planned on cloning once healthy then flipping to flower. They are Mimosa orange punch. Planned on flowering these out. Which ever pheno I like. I was going to colloidal silver spray it and pollen the other clones. Trying to get some feminized seeds collected. Sadly this tent does not hold water. I wet my wood everytime I water. I guess I'll water just to keep them moist until I can get the trays.
 
R

Roguedawg

Well-Known Member
If you can put them in a bathtub and put a lot of fert solution through them until you get a tray it would green them up quick. I would take a cutting of each one and keep the best one after you sample them. If the best one is a freak just use it to make seed. Use it to pollinate itself.
 
Mattossz

Mattossz

Member
Hello, I have a question if someone is running Athena at a lower EC than what the manufacturer indicates (the manufacturer indicates 3.0) such as in veg 1.4 to 1.8 and in flow 1.8 to 2.2.
Normally I would take the time to test if it can be used this way, but I am about to go into flowering and I don't want to have any problems the first few weeks.
 
C

Cannabis_For_Life

Member
Mattossz said:
Hello, I have a question if someone is running Athena at a lower EC than what the manufacturer indicates (the manufacturer indicates 3.0) such as in veg 1.4 to 1.8 and in flow 1.8 to 2.2.
Normally I would take the time to test if it can be used this way, but I am about to go into flowering and I don't want to have any problems the first few weeks.
Click to expand...
My best guesstimate would be to use the hydrobuddy nutrient calculator.
Plug in the athena nutrient %
And mess with the ratio. If I have time today I'll do it for you.
As long as your ppms per nutrient is in range. You should have no problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top