Dynagro is under-rated as fuck

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Malevolence

New Member
Anyone running hydro and getting eagle claw in flower with DG bloom?

My first thought was too much N, but I fed pretty light in veg and I'm actually thinking it could be iron and other micros locked out from too much P in the bloom formula. It is just a guess, but I veg at like 450ppm .5x so it is hard to believe too much N. It was also coupled with rapid ph drop which could be due to imbalance in the bloom nutes, or maybe I had something else going on but can't imagine what. Another thing that makes me think this could be 'too much P' related, is: the eagle claw started after 12/12 stretch which is about 10 days after I switched to DG Bloom.

This next flower run I plan to run a 40/60 mix of grow/bloom which I hope will yield better results... but if it really is N toxicity I'm going to make it worse by doing that.
 

BROBIE

Well-Known Member
When I get eagle claw I decrease PPM by 50% for a couple weeks . After that time I slowly increase until I reach 75% of the original PPMs. Claw is typically caused by too high ppms in general, like Uncle Ben has said, when the plants demands are not as high. With a sensitive strain I usually run maybe 375 ppm (that is with F-Pro though which is a 3-1-2. )
 

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
Anyone running hydro and getting eagle claw in flower with DG bloom?

My first thought was too much N, but I fed pretty light in veg and I'm actually thinking it could be iron and other micros locked out from too much P in the bloom formula. It is just a guess, but I veg at like 450ppm .5x so it is hard to believe too much N. It was also coupled with rapid ph drop which could be due to imbalance in the bloom nutes, or maybe I had something else going on but can't imagine what. Another thing that makes me think this could be 'too much P' related, is: the eagle claw started after 12/12 stretch which is about 10 days after I switched to DG Bloom.

This next flower run I plan to run a 40/60 mix of grow/bloom which I hope will yield better results... but if it really is N toxicity I'm going to make it worse by doing that.
run 75/25 grow/bloom in first month of flower and 25/75 grow/ bloom in last month of flower for fantastic results
 

indyboarder57

Active Member
Hey DG friends and DG experts! So as Maleovence stated, he and I have had issues with our pH swinging so rapidly in blooming cycle especially. I have been reading Uncle Ben's post and HB's threads on good ratios for DG products in dwc, and I'd say they are pretty much right on the button with ratios of DG Grow and Bloom.

However, after calling Dyna Gro today, I spoke with a bio-chemistry rep who offered some useful info for DWC growers, and I thought I would share with what he told me, which will probably be redundent for alot of you, but for those in DWC with Dyna Gro products, this info maybe useful, especially if you are having this canoe/ bear claw problem with high pH swings.

So other side info, I clean my buckets once every 5 days, I bleach them down, clean air hoses and stones by letting them soak in an h202 solution. I was running the heisenberg tea, but, I am wondering if the molasses is contributing to much with my anaerobic growth. I stopped using Mag-Pro a while back and wanted to try the Botanicare Sweet, which in my opinion is nice, but.... I think that the sugar and carbs, like the molasses is contributing to much too the bad bacteria (even with my res temps between 65-75 degres F).

This is my set up:
Basic grow room setup: 400 w HPS, 3.5 ft x 3.5 ft x 6 ft grow box. I am running 3 5-gal buckets with grow stones as my medium in 3.75 in net pots. I have a 6in inline exhaust with a 18in ossilator.

My nutes before the conversation:
Protek-3ml per gal , DG-Grow-1 ml per gal, DG-Bloom-2 ml/gallon, Botanicare-Sweet-5 ml per gallon.
Avg ppm in 3.5 gal of water in 5 gal bucket = (30 ppm x 3ml )+(120x1ml)x +(75 ppm x2) + (25ppmx5 ml) = 377 ppm +/- 2%

so as you can see, my feeding schedule for this plant is pretty light. but, I could not figure out why my pH was dropping a full 1.0 point in 24 hrs, ( I keep ph @ 5.9). Besides my pH swings and the bear claw, I have also been noticing that I have quite a bit of root particulates floating around in my bucket. Which, I am hypothesizing it may be the sugar/bad bacteria causing this. Even though I am NOT experiencing pythium or foul smells in my tank. (i.e. fishy smells)


So this is the info from Rafeal (like the Ninja Turtle), what might help fix our current problems, and guide us through better future grows. This is what he recommended:
1) Flush with plain pHed water for 1 week (this kind of threw me off a bit, but he said it would be the most sufficient ways of getting rid of the sugars). He also stated, that higher carbs/ sugars in a DWC medium, changes the osmotic pressure /tugo pressure, which basically dehydrates the plants. He stated that the sugars too would also splash onto my grow stones and contribute to bad bacteria as well.
- Since DWC is not a soil medium obviously, we do not have the plethora of various bacteria types ( good and bad) like soil mediums have, thus, even with our tea's we still will not have an amply diverse population that soil mediums have.

2) After a one week flush, he then statesd that we should do a res change, clean everything again, and start off with using 2.5 ml per gallon of KLN and 2 ml per gallon of ProTek for at least 5 days.

3)When you have approached your 5th day, change res and do a 50/50 mix of DG Foliage Pro with DG Bloom. Start with a low ppm and SLOWLY BUILD your way up.

4)Some other useful info, he recommended not to mix and match products from different brands because this could cause massive pH swings/ other grow issues. As far as Mag-Pro, he recommended using that sparingly, because of the high P, so 1 ml per gallon every 14 days is more than sufficient.

***Obviously this will effect your yield***** Live and Learn

Conclusion: Obviously, like I said, the info provided is redundant from the Uncle Ben/Homeberwer posts. But, sometimes instead of trying to cry to our DG fathers(not a gay joke about you UB and HB), it is good to contact the source and try and draw our own conclusions. Rafeal also stated that DG will becoming out with their own Sweetner soon and a few other products. They are also starting to phase out DG Grow formula and they are going to switch it too the FP forumla, and he highly recommended that we use Foliage Pro and Bloom together, opposed to DG Grow and Bloom, because the rations will be more in balance.

If you have any questions, Rafael said to give him a call about DG products, give hime a call @ 1-510-333-2333 , ext. 0254 . Aloha guys, and sincerest thanks to Uncle Ben and HB for guiding this padaewon growers and countless others.
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Conclusion: Obviously, like I said, the info provided is redundant from the Uncle Ben/Homeberwer posts. But, sometimes instead of trying to cry to our DG fathers(not a gay joke about you UB and HB), it is good to contact the source and try and draw our own conclusions. Rafeal also stated that DG will becoming out with their own Sweetner soon and a few other products. They are also starting to phase out DG Grow formula and they are going to switch it too the FP forumla, and he highly recommended that we use Foliage Pro and Bloom together, opposed to DG Grow and Bloom, because the rations will be more in balance.

If you have any questions, Rafael said to give him a call about DG products, give hime a call @ 1-510-333-2333 , ext. 0254 . Aloha guys, and sincerest thanks to Uncle Ben and HB for guiding this padaewon growers and countless others.
I've got some tests going on right now with combos of Bloom/foliage Pro. The pH seems steady, plants look nice. It'd be nice to drop 'grow' in favor of FP in hydro as one less bottle sitting around is always nice.
 

indyboarder57

Active Member
I agree with that HB. I will use up the rest of my DG Grow in my actual veggie garden. I concur the less clutter the better imo :). I am curious to see what type of "new" products they are going to come out with.... I am hoping their bloom will be balanced. The whole "sweetener" thing was like mehhhh..... fix mag-pro and the bloom first .

I still cannot believe how well FP works in veg, I always thought that the N was too high, but used in light amounts its great. @ 120 ppm per 1ml a gallon, shit is awesome.... ever since I switched solely to FP and Pro-Tek in veg, my plants are a little bit on the darker side on the fan leaves, but, all of the new growth is a nice light/hulkish green.
 

Malevolence

New Member
Man that is a lot more than I do for root rot haha... definitely going to try the grow/bloom blend in flower this time. I have learned with DWC it is best to just stick with silica, base nutes, and bennies... cal/mag if needed. Any time you bring in more additives, shit gets sideways. Or at least, get the grow dialed in for a couple cycles and then start experimenting and playing around with things. I have gotten fucked each and every time I put something organic in DWC (besides bennies), but you could try delivering the carbs (and other organics) in a mild foliar spray mid bloom. He is right... the tea is not good enough (diverse enough) to handle any kind of organics in DWC. The little root bits floating around are from the root rot and will probably be like that for the rest of the grow once you get it... you can scoop the dead root bits out every so often with a fish net.

I may try the FP (for flower blend) when my Grow runs out, but I already like the grow in veg and wouldn't want the plants to get any darker. I don't understand if they recommend blending the products and they know the Bloom is not balanced, then what is it for and why don't they change the ratio? And the icing on the turd cake is when you mention eagle clawing on the forums or wherever, you are generally told too much N.
 

brek

Well-Known Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
LOL! Looks like you found Homebrewer on your own (he's the one 2 posts above you).

Like I told you a few weeks ago....Ask him for help he can fix your shitty looking plants. If you act nice.

I like how you got scared in the last PM when you found out who I run with.
 

Jbone77

Well-Known Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
LOL! Looks like you found Homebrewer on your own (he's the one 2 posts above you).

Like I told you a few weeks ago....Ask him for help he can fix your shitty looking plants. If you act nice.

I like how you got scared in the last PM when you found out who I run with.
Lol, il wait
 

Jbone77

Well-Known Member
Why? If ur ph/ppm is good, u shouldnt get clawing from an even remotely adequate nute line. Not trying to be a dick but either u fucked up or Dynagro fucked up, Dynagro is a complete nutrient correct? Im confused why so many people have problems. Dont they have a tech line? Wont their tech line answer ur questions? I can ask AN a direct question about growing Thseeds Sage n Sour n a perlite hempy using sensigrow n conni n they will hold my hand n walk me thru it, cant u do that with Dynagro? Or are they designed for pros who can "modify a 1 part liquid nutrient to combat nitrogen toxicity while also having Calcium lockout n phosphorous def"?seems tough
 

MedicatedGrow

Active Member
I feel the same way about Jacks Classic 20-20-20 & 10-30-20 and the Citrus.

I lived by the expensive stuff, AN & FF. I loved FF but it was hard to come by locally and I hated to buy them online. AN was easy to get locally and had great results. I had a few members on here recommend Jacks Classic and now I don't see myself using any other brand (Besides using up any additives I already have purchased) once I use up those, I will only continue to use jacks. I haven't had a single leaf turn yellow (Unless it was one of the 4 starter fan leaves) and still have yet to see any turn yellow almost 3 weeks into flowering. It's a badass nutrient and under-rated. I won't be updating my journal much anymore but if you see that has all been done by jacks. Maybe before Xmas I will update. I'm only 2 weeks into flowering (almost 3 about half way) and my plant looks like its 3-4 weeks into flowering.
 

Jbone77

Well-Known Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
LOL! Looks like you found Homebrewer on your own (he's the one 2 posts above you).

Like I told you a few weeks ago....Ask him for help he can fix your shitty looking plants. If you act nice.

I like how you got scared in the last PM when you found out who I run with.
settle down sport.
I feel the same way about Jacks Classic 20-20-20 & 10-30-20 and the Citrus.

I lived by the expensive stuff, AN & FF. I loved FF but it was hard to come by locally and I hated to buy them online. AN was easy to get locally and had great results. I had a few members on here recommend Jacks Classic and now I don't see myself using any other brand (Besides using up any additives I already have purchased) once I use up those, I will only continue to use jacks. I haven't had a single leaf turn yellow (Unless it was one of the 4 starter fan leaves) and still have yet to see any turn yellow almost 3 weeks into flowering. It's a badass nutrient and under-rated.
what hydro form do you use? I also use Jacks
 

Jbone77

Well-Known Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
LOL! Looks like you found Homebrewer on your own (he's the one 2 posts above you).

Like I told you a few weeks ago....Ask him for help he can fix your shitty looking plants. If you act nice.

I like how you got scared in the last PM when you found out who I run with.
settle down sport.
why cant I get all these extra posts off my replies? Im quoting 1 person n 3 pop up after I post. WTF
 

MedicatedGrow

Active Member
what hydro form do you use? I also use Jacks
I use Roots Organic Soilless Coco Coir, says it a form of Hydro.

I don't use any test kits (PH, EC, PPM, etc)

I just mix my nutes (Full size after dosing little by little up) and I just set it and forget it. lol.

I have had one burn and oddly enough that was from using wayyyy to much Molasses in one feeding I used a ton by mistake and I guess it got 2 rust spots but the leaves from those 2 spots are still very green and healthy.

I haven't had to pull any leaves yet, just the starter ones that are so close to the medium that they get soaked when I water. I haven't had any yellowing 3-5 inches up from the medium. and any that are yellow from there are only little tips of them.
I over feed with Jacks, and I use Big bud now since I've had that before I started Jacks and I overfed with it a few times and still no burns.

My plant is massive and looks way ahead of what it should be.
 

Jbone77

Well-Known Member
I use Roots Organic Soilless Coco Coir, says it a form of Hydro.

I don't use any test kits (PH, EC, PPM, etc)

I just mix my nutes (Full size after dosing little by little up) and I just set it and forget it. lol.

I have had one burn and oddly enough that was from using wayyyy to much Molasses in one feeding I used a ton by mistake and I guess it got 2 rust spots but the leaves from those 2 spots are still very green and healthy.

I haven't had to pull any leaves yet, just the starter ones that are so close to the medium that they get soaked when I water. I haven't had any yellowing 3-5 inches up from the medium. and any that are yellow from there are only little tips of them.
I over feed with Jacks, and I use Big bud now since I've had that before I started Jacks and I overfed with it a few times and still no burns.

My plant is massive and looks way ahead of what it should be.
Is roots organic reuseable?
 

MedicatedGrow

Active Member
Jacks is complete you can use one bucket of 20-20-20 for multiple grows and never have to add additives unless you want to.

I don't use Hydro Hydro if that is what you mean, honestly I just bought RO a year ago because I don't like Soil and I never have gone back. I haven't had a issue at all and I've grown maybe over 10 plants this year with it.

This is my first time using Jacks Classic and also my first time growing a extremely large 4ft indica and I don't check PH or PPM and havent for over a year and (Cross my fingers) this is my best plant yet, I will update with pics in a few.)
 
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