First dwc

Jdcollins86

Active Member
about three weeks ago I started my first dwc and the plant and roots have taking off like a fucking space shuttle. It's awesome! But any ways I can't seem to shake the deficiency I have.. I believe it to be calcium, but it could be something else..?? It's not effecting new growth just the old lower leafs.
I've been feeding them AN connoisseur at about 550ppm at a ph of 5.8 in ro water.
Res temps are right around 69.
Plenty of air.
I have been adding calmag with every res change.
Every time I've changed the res it goes away and in about 4 days it reappears.
What could this be? IMG_1084.JPG
 

blackforest

Well-Known Member
about three weeks ago I started my first dwc and the plant and roots have taking off like a fucking space shuttle. It's awesome! But any ways I can't seem to shake the deficiency I have.. I believe it to be calcium, but it could be something else..?? It's not effecting new growth just the old lower leafs.
I've been feeding them AN connoisseur at about 550ppm at a ph of 5.8 in ro water.
Res temps are right around 69.
Plenty of air.
I have been adding calmag with every res change.
Every time I've changed the res it goes away and in about 4 days it reappears.
What could this be? View attachment 3834848
Its's a Ca deficiency. Either you are not adding enough calmag when changing out, or the ph is drifting too high. 5.8 is about the top range for Ca absorption. Might try to bring the ph down a little? Some strains use more Ca than others too. Had a Gogi Og that was a calmag whore.
 

Jdcollins86

Active Member
So I came home today 3 days out of town. The plant took off. Still the same with the rust spots... ph was at 5.7-5.8
 

whitey78

Well-Known Member
If your using ro your gonna wanna add some cal mag... I usually run 100 ppm of ca/mg or 1ml per gallon of nutrient solution to start with as usually that's enough for me as I have an ro maker with a permeation pump which adds back 30-60ppm of ca/mg before landing in my storage drum with a float; before any nutes get mixed in.. But that 30-60ppm from the ro maker hasn't been enough as I've seen ca/mg def in every group of plants I've grown lately, usually right as they hit the 4-5 week mark in flower.... both ca and mg defs pop up at the same time... Actually ca first and then mg like 3 days later...
 

whitey78

Well-Known Member
Also what order are u adding your nutrients?

If your adding a silica supplement like silica blast, or dyna gro-protekt... your gonna wanna add the silica first and let it mix thoroughly with your water first, then add your base nutes in whatever order the manufacturer suggests... then add any supplements, and then your cal/mag last....

if you are NOT adding any kind of separate silica product, you'll wanna add the cal/mag first and let it mix thoroughly with your water, then add your base nutes; and then your other supplements...

I run blue planet nutes 3 part which is similar to the GH 3 part... I use theyre silica product so I add my silica, micro, grow, bloom, my 2 bloom boosters, and then my cal/mag (I run zero veg clones so I don't really veg hence the 2 bloom boosters)... also in between adding each product... I have a submersible pump circulating the solution around the res so it mixes properly for a good 5-10 minutes before adding the next product, or if I'm in a rush I'll watch until ppm stabilizes at the least before adding anything else...

i guess if u add silica at the wrong time it can cause some combining issues with your other products as will cal/mag if you don't add it first...

I guess with certain product lines you can add it whatever way u like as some products won't cause an issue but some will and I'm going loosely by what my nute manufacturer told me awhile back that I can't recall all the scientific terms he used as to why (the word precipitation comes to mind) but I've followed his instructions since and have had nothing but good luck..

if you ever wanna try a simple to use, much cheaper than GH, 2 or 3 part nute line; give blue planet a try... I can't say a single bad thing about them other than I hate the weekly 24 hour plain water flush to minimize salt build up but I guess that's what you get when u run synthetics... eventually I plan on switching up to something like mills or canna but for now the simplicity of BPN is helping an old dert grower bang out some pretty sweet hydro product... I need to work out my formulations for each strain but that comes with time... but I've contacted bpn 3 or 4 times and every single time i got a detailed response from someone usually in less than 24 hours as long as it wasn't on a weekend or something....

Personally I refuse to do anything with advanced.. theyre product lines are so expensive and rediculasly over hyped that you're paying more for the labels I'm thinking than anything else... as far as the ph perfect shit, when I mix my 3 part, the ph lands squarely on 5.5-5.6 most of the time so I guess bpn's cheap ass nutes are ph perfect as well... don't get sucked into the hype of snake oil... AN's products work, but you can get the same or better results at half the price im willing to bet....
 

Jdcollins86

Active Member
Also what order are u adding your nutrients?

If your adding a silica supplement like silica blast, or dyna gro-protekt... your gonna wanna add the silica first and let it mix thoroughly with your water first, then add your base nutes in whatever order the manufacturer suggests... then add any supplements, and then your cal/mag last....

if you are NOT adding any kind of separate silica product, you'll wanna add the cal/mag first and let it mix thoroughly with your water, then add your base nutes; and then your other supplements...

I run blue planet nutes 3 part which is similar to the GH 3 part... I use theyre silica product so I add my silica, micro, grow, bloom, my 2 bloom boosters, and then my cal/mag (I run zero veg clones so I don't really veg hence the 2 bloom boosters)... also in between adding each product... I have a submersible pump circulating the solution around the res so it mixes properly for a good 5-10 minutes before adding the next product, or if I'm in a rush I'll watch until ppm stabilizes at the least before adding anything else...

i guess if u add silica at the wrong time it can cause some combining issues with your other products as will cal/mag if you don't add it first...

I guess with certain product lines you can add it whatever way u like as some products won't cause an issue but some will and I'm going loosely by what my nute manufacturer told me awhile back that I can't recall all the scientific terms he used as to why (the word precipitation comes to mind) but I've followed his instructions since and have had nothing but good luck..

if you ever wanna try a simple to use, much cheaper than GH, 2 or 3 part nute line; give blue planet a try... I can't say a single bad thing about them other than I hate the weekly 24 hour plain water flush to minimize salt build up but I guess that's what you get when u run synthetics... eventually I plan on switching up to something like mills or canna but for now the simplicity of BPN is helping an old dert grower bang out some pretty sweet hydro product... I need to work out my formulations for each strain but that comes with time... but I've contacted bpn 3 or 4 times and every single time i got a detailed response from someone usually in less than 24 hours as long as it wasn't on a weekend or something....

Personally I refuse to do anything with advanced.. theyre product lines are so expensive and rediculasly over hyped that you're paying more for the labels I'm thinking than anything else... as far as the ph perfect shit, when I mix my 3 part, the ph lands squarely on 5.5-5.6 most of the time so I guess bpn's cheap ass nutes are ph perfect as well... don't get sucked into the hype of snake oil... AN's products work, but you can get the same or better results at half the price im willing to bet....
Man thanks a lot!! I'm thinking of changing to a new nute lineup
 

whitey78

Well-Known Member
Always do what works for you but really AN is a lot of hype imo more than anything... they work as do just about all mmj specific nutrient lines but it's a lot of $ and a lot of products they sell you on that I can't see another company not including everything needed to grow to your genetics potential... I like blue planets 3 part for ease of use... I did get suckered into theyre "high yield" kit but for the price it's foolish not to try it... but I would definitely run just theyre 3 part and a cal/mag supplement (I use ro) & be fine...

Eventually I'll do a side by side with and without the bloom boosters but for now I started with them so I'm just gonna continue using them... the high yield kit comes with a seaweed product and another organic-ish product that I stopped using because I'm trying to run synthetics only just for the sake of easy cleaning.... the seaweed and vitablue coat everything with a brown film that I can live without but I use them both on my soil plants so it works out.... but I'm phasing out my soil mother plants for dwc hydro moms...
 

Yesdog

Well-Known Member
Hmm, yea looks like calmag isn't making it to the plant. If you are using RO, definitely use the full dose of calmag. Not sure what amount AN has in it (if any), I know most nute lineups provide various amounts so it makes it even more of a moving target to figure out how much calmag you really need.

Definitely mix Si first, cal/mag second. Shake BOTH well before use, they're not totally stable on their own. Mix well between each step, don't pH until the solution is totally mixed, or at least pH after Si/Ca/Mg. If they're not mixed right, the plants can't use em as well, and your rez pH will drift around as these things start to stabilize. Those are all more soluble when alkaline, so you want it stable as possible before mixing in the nutes and dropping the pH.
 

ChrisOTK

Member
I just dealt with a similar issue. I thought it was CA deficiency so put in Cal-mag. turns out that my humidity was way too low. In young plants very low humidity can present like a CA deficiency. I fixed the humidity but had to turn off the AC to do it as it pulls too much moisture out of the air.

My humidity was between 15 and 20%, now its sitting around 50-55% but temps are 87-89 degrees. I will be starting Co2 next week so hopefully the temp issue is not so much of a problem
 

Yesdog

Well-Known Member
I just dealt with a similar issue. I thought it was CA deficiency so put in Cal-mag. turns out that my humidity was way too low. In young plants very low humidity can present like a CA deficiency. I fixed the humidity but had to turn off the AC to do it as it pulls too much moisture out of the air.

My humidity was between 15 and 20%, now its sitting around 50-55% but temps are 87-89 degrees. I will be starting Co2 next week so hopefully the temp issue is not so much of a problem
My plants started to get rust spots the last week of flowering- was like 20% humidity for the last month =\ Figured it was cause I was easing up on the feeding but humidity totally makes more sense. They were drinking like mad even though it was below freezing lol. Probably just to combat the humidity.
 

Jdcollins86

Active Member
I just dealt with a similar issue. I thought it was CA deficiency so put in Cal-mag. turns out that my humidity was way too low. In young plants very low humidity can present like a CA deficiency. I fixed the humidity but had to turn off the AC to do it as it pulls too much moisture out of the air.

My humidity was between 15 and 20%, now its sitting around 50-55% but temps are 87-89 degrees. I will be starting Co2 next week so hopefully the temp issue is not so much of a problem
My plants started to get rust spots the last week of flowering- was like 20% humidity for the last month =\ Figured it was cause I was easing up on the feeding but humidity totally makes more sense. They were drinking like mad even though it was below freezing lol. Probably just to combat the humidity.
HOLY SHIT it makes since!!! I live in Alaska and the weather makes for a low RH in the winter time. My veg room has been right around 28%. As the plants grew older the rusty spots slowed down and have almost disappeared. Thanks a lot guys
 
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