budulyk
Well-Known Member
@tntgreen13 yay someone else noticed thought i was tripping seeing that growth lol
Thank you for the detailed reply! Water ph between 6.5-6.7. Is there a sure fire way to determine if soil is compacted? I drench at a pretty decent clip and get runoff right away so that's lead me to believe there's breathing room but if there's a problem with it if I'd definitely like to correct it. I didn't notice the green. I'll check it out and pluck tonight.Might just be my eyes playing tricks on me but in your lst photo it appears that there is an additional small green growth on left side of pot, this should be something you look at. You mentioned that your runoff ph is 6.2 what is the ph of the water when you water the plant? I'd be shooting for a ph around 6.5 of the water you are feeding them to prevent lockout.
The soil does appear pretty compact, and runoff in a timely manner isn't always a sign of lose soil. The speed of which you water it, the moisture level in the soil, size of container, etc can all play contributing factors to this. Most first timers overwater, I have actually let my plants go a week or so at a time before having to water them, if your watering every couple of days at this stage in there life this could be a possible issue.
As far as cutting of the yellowing leaves, at this point the plants are pretty small, and as long as the leaves aren't actually dying, I wouldn't remove them at this point as it will add extra stress to the plant in my opinion.
This is what I do. Ran across someone advising the spare pot and it seemed most reliable. Weight is the #1 factor I've been relying on. I'll let them dry out for a good while before watering again though. I definitely did not make the best choice for soil before I started. 1 good thing about mistakes tho, they'll teach you what not to do lol.Other then the 30-35% perlite, I have seen where you have listed the other ingredients of your medium, this may be something to consider as well. I have heard a lot of positives of FFOF, but also a lot of good things about Roots organic as well. At this point I would let them dry out a bit and you may surprised with the growth. At this stage I'd honestly look more at 5-7 days between watering in my opinion, especially with the amount of water you have been giving them each time.
Also as far as the "knuckle test" goes, I know some swear by this, but there are two issues I see with this. 1) You mention doing 1 knuckle, when generally it's suppose to be 2 knuckles 2) I have know many people who have accidentally caused damage to the roots this way, and would advise the weight of your pot.
I thought I knew the weight of my pots and what they need to be down to before water, but I was actually recommend to take an extra pot and fill it with my same medium mix and leave it dry. This way you have something to compare more so as a reference point.
As far as the soil goes, just chalk it up as a learning experience. I am a new grower as well but have a few people on here I have learned to trust there opinions based on their experience, and have done hours upon hours of research before starting my first grow. With that being said, I went into my first grown calling it my "Test Grow" because their is definitely a learning curve when it comes to growing, and I knew that it was going to take time to dial in my system. Still have issues, but learn more and more every day.This is what I do. Ran across someone advising the spare pot and it seemed most reliable. Weight is the #1 factor I've been relying on. I'll let them dry out for a good while before watering again though. I definitely did not make the best choice for soil before I started. 1 good thing about mistakes tho, they'll teach you what not to do lol.
Thats what I'm finding as well. I started with bag seed and a cheap setup to see whether I could keep them healthy or not. I've also been researching as much as I could and have found it very helpful to know what to look for. Just ordered some seeds from nirvana and am constructing a cab with a cfl hood for my next grow. I'm using the trio as well. Have only used grow big as of yet. I have advanced nutrients cal/mag ready In case it's needed.As far as the soil goes, just chalk it up as a learning experience. I am a new grower as well but have a few people on here I have learned to trust there opinions based on their experience, and have done hours upon hours of research before starting my first grow. With that being said, I went into my first grown calling it my "Test Grow" because their is definitely a learning curve when it comes to growing, and I knew that it was going to take time to dial in my system. Still have issues, but learn more and more every day.
I am never fortunate to find any seeds in the bas I purchase, and have intentions of doing more runs so I jumped in pretty heavy. Running 600w HPS for flower, multiple T8's for veg, custom built cab, and dropped about 200$ alone on beans from Herbies. All together I'm pushing about 800-1000$ invested and I have seen some much less expensive grows by others that look better then mine by far. Again, just another learning experience, but I also have equipment that I can carry into future grows which is nice. So kinda a double edged sword.Thats what I'm finding as well. I started with bag seed and a cheap setup to see whether I could keep them healthy or not. I've also been researching as much as I could and have found it very helpful to know what to look for. Just ordered some seeds from nirvana and am constructing a cab with a cfl hood for my next grow. I'm using the trio as well. Have only used grow big as of yet. I have advanced nutrients cal/mag ready In case it's needed.
I was leaning very heavily on getting a 600w hps setup. But after doing research and coming up with a pyramid style hood that I can adjust lights on I decided to go cfl route. I like the idea of spreading the light evenly thought the canopy and adding side lighting to help smaller bud sites a bit as well as how close I can keep them to the plants. I may need to invest in a 600w hps setup and compare results.I am never fortunate to find any seeds in the bas I purchase, and have intentions of doing more runs so I jumped in pretty heavy. Running 600w HPS for flower, multiple T8's for veg, custom built cab, and dropped about 200$ alone on beans from Herbies. All together I'm pushing about 800-1000$ invested and I have seen some much less expensive grows by others that look better then mine by far. Again, just another learning experience, but I also have equipment that I can carry into future grows which is nice. So kinda a double edged sword.
In 100% honesty, I haven't used fovea soil so I can't say for sure. However, its not usually recommended to transplant after the plants go into flower. With that being said their are a couple options that come to my mind. 1) You can do some research on cloning, take a clone from each plant(keeping track of which clone is from which plant) and putting your clones into an early flower. By doing this the clones will tell you the sex of their mother (or possibly father) plant. 2) Would be to switch the plants themselves to a 12/12 light cycle to start flower, checking them couple times daily for signs of sex. Throw out any males, and then switch back to your standard 18/6 light cycle. This will send your plants back into a vegetative state, where you can let them veg and recover from the stress, know there are only females left. Then when your ready, you put them back under 12/12 and let them go.I was leaning very heavily on getting a 600w hps setup. But after doing research and coming up with a pyramid style hood that I can adjust lights on I decided to go cfl route. I like the idea of spreading the light evenly thought the canopy and adding side lighting to help smaller bud sites a bit as well as how close I can keep them to the plants. I may need to invest in a 600w hps setup and compare results.
Another question. Is it safe to transplant into larger pots with ffof soil after determining sex?
I haven't touched on cloning myself, as I don't feel I'm to that level. Some stress for a plant can actually be a good thing as long as you give it time to fully recover before heading into bloom. The positive to revegging your plant is that you don't waste any of the nice quality soil on plants your going to throw out in a week or less. However, even quality soil isn't overly expensive in the whole scheme of things.i think tnt makes a lot of good points here ive also read the pot of dry medium thing and i do tend to use this myself i think personally id do as he says regarding not transplanting when in flower with it just being bagseed too might aswell just repot them all flip em then u got 6 attempts at repotting incase u damage anything and 6 attempts to know the sexes great learning and save hassle if it needs to go in the bin then its all good still ive never liked the idea of flipping a plant then revegging just feel like its unneeded stress on the plant for ur own laziness of not wanting to repot it but thats just my oppinion i like to keep stress to as little as possible if i can i like the idea of cloning but ill be honest i feel its a bit above where im at right now
Yea good soil is really the least expensive part It seems. I'm torn because I've read lots of posts that say transplanting after sexing is fine as long as the root ball isn't damaged. I've also read posts advising against it. So there's the rub lol. I feel cloning is a bit ahead of me still so I'd ruled that out. I'm not trying to veg these plants that long I'm not shooting for size so that's why I was hoping to transplant after sexing to get them into flower.I haven't touched on cloning myself, as I don't feel I'm to that level. Some stress for a plant can actually be a good thing as long as you give it time to fully recover before heading into bloom. The positive to revegging your plant is that you don't waste any of the nice quality soil on plants your going to throw out in a week or less. However, even quality soil isn't overly expensive in the whole scheme of things.
With that being said, if your willing to spend a little more on soil, I'd transplant them all into larger pots, give them a week or so after transplant to recover then flip them to veg. The way I look at it is I'd rather lose $20 on soil, rather then risk damaging the root ball. With my luck the ones I damage would be the only girls in the batch, so buying the extra soil to me is just a good insurance plan in this situation. Again thats just my two cents.Yea good soil is really the least expensive part It seems. I'm torn because I've read lots of posts that say transplanting after sexing is fine as long as the root ball isn't damaged. I've also read posts advising against it. So there's the rub lol. I feel cloning is a bit ahead of me still so I'd ruled that out. I'm not trying to veg these plants that long I'm not shooting for size so that's why I was hoping to transplant after sexing to get them into flower.
This is very true, those first 2 weeks or so your plants will stretch, and whatever you do don't harvest prematurely as your buds will fatten up the most in the last couple weeks.ive seen this too but problem is it takes a good week or so to recover after the transplant so do u want to waste ur precious flowertime on recovery ? i wouldnt thats a week of flowers producing and if ur not going for too much size id see this as more important as first week or 2 of flowering they still growing bro heard they slow down after this
all about the trichomes baby !!!I tried checking your journal but it won't let me see it. Says I'm not allowed, guessing its something to do with your settings.
With that being said, if your willing to spend a little more on soil, I'd transplant them all into larger pots, give them a week or so after transplant to recover then flip them to veg. The way I look at it is I'd rather lose $20 on soil, rather then risk damaging the root ball. With my luck the ones I damage would be the only girls in the batch, so buying the extra soil to me is just a good insurance plan in this situation. Again thats just my two cents.
This is very true, those first 2 weeks or so your plants will stretch, and whatever you do don't harvest prematurely as your buds will fatten up the most in the last couple weeks.
Definitely a lot to think about. If I don't here anything different about transplanting after sexing i will most likely go this route. Definitely not harvesting early lol I'm patient.I tried checking your journal but it won't let me see it. Says I'm not allowed, guessing its something to do with your settings.
With that being said, if your willing to spend a little more on soil, I'd transplant them all into larger pots, give them a week or so after transplant to recover then flip them to veg. The way I look at it is I'd rather lose $20 on soil, rather then risk damaging the root ball. With my luck the ones I damage would be the only girls in the batch, so buying the extra soil to me is just a good insurance plan in this situation. Again thats just my two cents.
This is very true, those first 2 weeks or so your plants will stretch, and whatever you do don't harvest prematurely as your buds will fatten up the most in the last couple weeks.